Glock 19 Problem

[5539]

I have three Glocks, 17 Gen2, 22 Gen3 and a 30 Gen3.

When I put the 22 and 30 slides back onto their respective frames, everything goes back together without a problem, both function normally.

When I put the 17's slide on it's frame, I have to push the trigger control tab forward, cocking the pistol, before the slide will seat properly.

When I do as described, the pistol functions normally, but I have my doubts about safety.

Without pushing the tab forward, the slide stops about 1/8 short of proper slide lockup.

I don't know which is faulty, the trigger tab or the cruciform tab.

I think that replacing the trigger and the trigger bar, may solve the problem.

What is your solution for this problem?

Thank you,

John

[G-forceJunkie]

Are you sure its not hanging up on the plastic trigger housing, the part in the rear next to the metal rails? My 17 will do that sometimes, wiggle or lift the rear of the slide. You should not be "cocking" the trigger forward, that will force the firing pin have to shove the upkick on the trigger bar down to get past it. If it is hanging up on the firing pin saftey in the slide, you can depress it with the slide facing downward so the striker moves forward. In this position, the plunger will be held more depressed.

[SJgunguy24]

When I put the slide onto the frame I just pull back and let it fly. It seats itself.

[5539]

G-force,

The Trigger Mechanism Housing and Ejector look OK, plastic side part is not deformed nor does it show any sort of battering.

The beveled side of the Firing Pin Safety, looks rough and the contact area on the edge of the Trigger Control Tab, looks somewhat battered.

I think this is the hangup point, as the points of contact appear bright and battered.

I'll replace everything and be good to go.

I think I'll go with a Titanium Trigger Safety and the rest OEM parts,

Thanks for your information.

John

[caoboy]

I think your problem is, you don't have a Glock 19. Just sayin'

[Mstnpete]

Did you change the angle where the trigger spring connects?

[!@#$]

pics we need them.

[5539]

Mstnpete,

Not that I am aware of.

Bought it on this forum and have not had a chance to tear it down.

Pistol functions as I shot it last week, no problems.

Sorry no pictures.

Thanks for the information.

John

[G-forceJunkie]

Where in LA are you? I have parts and went through Glock Armors school. Also, is the serial number start with 2 or three letters? If its an older pistol, all the fire controll parts will be replaced by Glock for free as part of an upgrade. You can PM me the serial number (X out the last 2 digets if you like) and I'll check if its elegable.

[5539]

G-force,
I live in Bellflower/ Downey area.

Glock 17 2nd Generation............Serial # BKN1**US

I have all the parts, except for the Trigger Bar and the Trigger Safety.

Thanks for your offer, no need to use your parts.

I will order a few extra parts, that I don't have on hand, to rebuild/ repair the 17, 22 and 30.

The 22 is near NIB, the person I bought it from needed the money, more than the pistol.

To give you and idea of my mind set, I lost one Spring Cup and bought 5 sets and 3 of all the springs, except for the The Guide Rod.

Once again Thank You for help!

Merry Christmas

John

[G-forceJunkie]

Ok, all the three letter serial numbers are new enough to not need the upgrade.

[5539]

G-force,

Thanks,

John

[5539]

Well I stripped the 17 down and cleaned up a lot of oil soaked crud.

Gave everything a good look see and compared old parts with the new Parts.

Did the two bit trigger job plus a throat polish, sparingly oiled it up and went to the range.

Shot a 100 rounds of Winchester White Box and only had one stovepipe.

If stovepipes become a problem, I'll change the extractor spring and test before I change out the extractor as well.

Somewhere I read if you only have a few stovepipes, blame the ammo, if more than a few, springs may well be the problem.

What say you?