U.M. QD Swivel Base Install

[slick_711]

I've got a spare set of Uncle Mike's QD base cups that came with push button swivels I bought a while back to change out the sling for my AR15 to match the setup on my AR10. The left over base cups have been sitting in my little gunsmithing/tinkering tool box waiting to be installed into the side of my Remy 700 so I could utilize the same sling with it from time to time when I didn't want to use the traditional leather military sling that's normally on there.

Anyway, with hunting season about to start I have a chance to use my 700 for some pig this coming week, and then of course deer in the near future. That's got me itching to install them ASAP. I was wondering if anyone had done this, and could tell me what type of epoxy/glue/caulk type material would be best for sealing the bases into the stock once the holes are drilled? It's a fiberglass H&S Precision stock.

As a secondary question, I'm @ work and can't find measurments for the diameter of the bases online. I'd like to stop at home depot and buy the appropriate drill bit on my way home if anyone happens to know the size of the bases?

Thanks for any input!

http://www.unclemikes.com/products/push_button_detachable_swivels.html

[slick_711]

Well, incase anyone else ever goes looking, the appropriate drill bit diameter to place the flush cups is 1/2". I've found suggestions of JB Weld or Epoxy as far as securing them goes.

ETA: Let it be known for future DIY'ers that HS Precision stocks are hollow from the pistol grip back. I knew it was partially hollow, but thought I had found a solid point behind the cheek rest to sink the flush cup into.

No. My only thought now without making it worse is to fill the rear of the stock with aerosol can expandable foam, then carefully re-bore the hole into the foam and hope that the JB weld will grab enough of the cup base. Worst case, I'll cover it over with putty and repaint it, but that would really disappoint me.

Alternatively, I'm considering drilling a small hole from the other side, running a bolt through and stacking as many washers as needed on the bolt from the inside of the stock until the swivel cup sits flush with it's side of the stock. Then then it could be bolted on from the inside and cleaned up cosmetically with a bit of putty and both sides re-painted.

The stock being hollow threw a major problem into what should have been a simple countersunk hole. I know nobody will read any of this, but I guess while I wait for it to dry it makes me feel a little better to share in case someone else tries to do the same thing in the future.

[adamsreeftank]

Personally, here is what I would do:

Use the spray foam, but don't expect any strength from it. Then recut the hole for the cap. Then I would remove some of the foam inside the hole at the stock so the epoxy takes the shape of a plug with some mass inside the stock. Then use a heavy-duty expoxy.

You should probably use blue tape to tape up the stock so you don't get glue or foam on it.

[ar15barrels]

I don't use the straight sided 1/2" diameter flush cups anymore, but when I did, I would always try to back them up with a metal plate, or at least a #8 screw with a couple nuts on it to create a larger mechanical lock than those two tiny little grooves.
I usually put a backer plate inside the hollow of the stock or the barrel channel.

Now, I use the threaded ones from Grovtec.
I made a special endmill that makes a hole of the proper diameter and depth with a chamfer at the top.
Then I tap the hole 9/16-18 and thread in the flush cup with some expoy.
It's a much easier way to go than the straight sided flush cups.

[slick_711]

I don't use the straight sided 1/2" diameter flush cups anymore, but when I did, I would always try to back them up with a metal plate, or at least a #8 screw with a couple nuts on it to create a larger mechanical lock than those two tiny little grooves.
I usually put a backer plate inside the hollow of the stock or the barrel channel.

Now, I use the threaded ones from Grovtec.
I made a special endmill that makes a hole of the proper diameter and depth with a chamfer at the top.
Then I tap the hole 9/16-18 and thread in the flush cup with some expoy.
It's a much easier way to go than the straight sided flush cups.

I should've just sent it to you Randall. I'm going to need the barrel threaded in a few months here anyway. I thought it would be a simple install, which it would have in wood, but the hollow fiberglass is beyond my expertise. I was thinking some kind of backer, but the buttpad is glued on. It'd probably be best to remove it and make an appropriate mount from the inside of the stock.

However my little goof turns out, thank you both for your input.