Anodizing

[feelinducky]

I'm in the process of an AR80% lower. A couple of questions for the experts.

1) Are these fair prices?
Price on type 2 anodizing is $75
Type 3 hard coat is $100

2) because of question #3 Should I anodize before or after I mill it out?

3) If it's milled out can I leave it at the anodizing facility? I thought I read someware that I can't leave it there for a couple of days, but I'm unsure.

Thanks

[Rust]

Better to anodize after you finish milling. That way you get the protective properties of the anodizing on all surfaces. Also for a firearm I strongly suggest type 3 unless you're going to color anodize the receiver in which case you're limited to a few dark colors or type 2. You'll need to find an anodizer who has an FFL since it will be a firearm after you start work on it. Actually I think that as soon as you start to remove any metal at all it becomes a firearm. 80% is legal to do whatever you want with, 81% is a gun and needs to be handled as such.

[bootcamp]

Anodize before. Just me

[darkcbr1000rr]

Holy crap that's expensive! It's cheap as hell where I sent my stuff. I didn't do hard coat anodize though. It adds to much thickness on the part. I did black anodize with teflon coating.

[kaiserworks]

The lot charge at my anodizer is $175. For that price I have 50 receivers bead blasted and type III hard anodized. I'd say your getting over charged. Also the anodizer needs an FFL which my local place has here in San Diego. Let me know if you have more questions.

[feelinducky]

Thanks for the info. Does anyone know an anodizer in Sacramento that has an FFL?

[drs2714]

The problem you have is that you only have one piece.Everything is cheaper when you have a large quantity.Unless that shop is set up to run exactly what you want at that exact moment its going to cost alot.No matter what kind on part it is.Yes that is too much!

[kaiserworks]

There are not that many anodizers that have FFL's and its highly unusual in CA. With the low prices for regular name brand 5.56 lowers at this time, making your own ends up being very expensive. I've seen dealers in CA. selling my own Kaiser brand for $125 or less.

But back to the point, You have to anodize the part, even tough aluminum alloys like 7075 will oxidize and scale over time. Hard anodizing not only applies a finish to the part but it actually hardens the surface and impregnates the metal. There are spray on type finishes that will offer protection to aluminum but they never really adhere well unless they have a base finish like anodizing underneath.

I'd check around for another anodizer, often called "platers", that will give you a better deal. Then I would wait there until the part is complete, usually 4-6 hours because leaving it there with no FFL is a no-go legally. The ATF is quite clear on this matter.

[ucb]

Anodizing is a batch process, each shop has diff size batches (basically a basket that is dipped into the etching tanks). They are basically charging you their minimum lot charge, you could prob fit 8-10 receivers in the smaller baskets and still get charged the same amount

My local guys is <$100 for a small lot however

Kaiser-Can you legally ship receivers to an anodizer with FFL?

[kaiserworks]

Anodizing is a batch process, each shop has diff size batches (basically a basket that is dipped into the etching tanks). They are basically charging you their minimum lot charge, you could prob fit 8-10 receivers in the smaller baskets and still get charged the same amount

My local guys is <$100 for a small lot however

Kaiser-Can you legally ship receivers to an anodizer with FFL?

Thats entirely up to the anodizer with an FFL. The place I use is high volume and would probably charge full lot charge for just one item. Also, they may say no to logging in a firearm from a private individual. When they get items from me, its a bulk quantity FFL to FFL and back again.

The OP is probably best served by finding a plater locally thats less expensive and just camping out there until its done. Also, if the plater is unfamiliar with the type of finish expected on AR's, its best to bring along a factory upper or lower receiver for reference. Anodizing is a process that can vary greatly. From getting a proper bead blast on the part to leaving it in the dye tank long enough to get a deep uniform color, see example below (unlike older Colts that looked blotchy gray):

[feelinducky]

Yes, the 100-120 was minimum charge that I was quoted. I guess I'll have to do a couple of lowers!! What do you guys think about laser engraving. I assume that is done after the anodizing process.

[kaiserworks]

Yes, laser engraving is done after anodize. It is best for small detailed graffics like a zombie face, le badge or military emblem. For lettering, serials, selector markings ect; nothing looks as good as using a traditional engraving tool on a mill. Also, not all laser engraving machines are equal, a place that does trophies and plaques will not have the type of laser that will provide the desired result.

[VaderSpade]

OR you can do it yourself;

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=271990

I'm improving my etching, and getting into more detailed graphics. I hope to find the time to do another thread soon.

[ucb]

Yes, laser engraving is done after anodize. It is best for small detailed graffics like a zombie face, le badge or military emblem. For lettering, serials, selector markings ect; nothing looks as good as using a traditional engraving tool on a mill. Also, not all laser engraving machines are equal, a place that does trophies and plaques will not have the type of laser that will provide the desired result.

Yeah, the lasers that are used for the fine detailed stuff are lower powered and not designed to remove a lot of material, essentially just the coating to get the contrast and design. I imagine the main draw back is, if someone was to steal/take your lower that was laser engraved, if they etched away all of the anodizing, with it would go whatever was laser engraved.

Then the higher power cutting lasers, well they don't have the same resolution due to beam size/wavelength..and typically will cut right through the whole part. Normally you use a graphite backing plate to stop the beam

[feelinducky]

Thanks for all the info. Great post on your build Vader! I'll be using your information for mine.
Thanks