Anodizing a lower, is it really needed?

[craneman]

If anyone can help me make a decision I would really appriciate it. I have searched and read until my eye's ache. Evidently my Google-fu is pretty sad.

I have a completed 80% lower. Time to do finishing. I can try to do Type II at home. Could end up looking like crap. But is it as hard as Type III, will it last as long? I know it is not as thick. Is anodizing really needed? The only wear I can see would be the takedown holes in the lower probably take a beating, and the hammer pin hole. 7075 alloy is pretty tough, but not nearly as hard as the steel of these pins.

The other option may not be any good. U.S. Anodizing was reported on here to no longer do lowers for private parties. However thier website sayes they can recieve and ship to an FFL. I could do that, but I am not so sure I want to. Does anyone know of anywhere else, possibly closer?

Norells Moly Resin is another option. Its fairly hard, but I don't know if it is as hard as anodizing. I don't know if the original design for Type III was for wear resistance, corrosion resistance, or just overall longevity.

Anybody ever leave them in the white and put alot of rounds down the pipe? What kind of wear have you seen? Maybe I am just overthinking this. Any knowledge, thoughts, insights would really help. Thanks.

[DB2]

Everyone is gonna scream annodize it. I on the other hand have had no issues with just Norrels. I have a Stag lower that I did a bunch off work to, a few years back. I completely blasted it and coated it with Norrels. I have a couple thousand rounds through it. I pulled the FCG out recently to naval jelly the parts. The FCG holes are still coated. The pins had slight wear on them, and I mean slight.


If you use Norrels, follow the instructions to the T. You will have zero problems.

[craneman]

Thanks DB2, did I understand you right? The actual pins showed wear? Was it at the point where they passed through the lower, or where they intersect with the hammer and sear/trigger assy? So when you completely blasted it did you remove the anodizing Stag had on it? I assume you purchased it finished and anodized.

[DB2]

Thanks DB2, did I understand you right? The actual pins showed wear? Was it at the point where they passed through the lower, or where they intersect with the hammer and sear/trigger assy? So when you completely blasted it did you remove the anodizing Stag had on it? I assume you purchased it finished and anodized.

The FCG pins I have in it were paint over park. Thats how most of them are. My pins had some wear spots down to the park, not through it. That's what I meant by slight. This was at the pin in the receiver hole, and it wasnt all the holes. It was just a couple.

Yes, ALL the factory annodize was blasted off. I removed the deer head, and the fire/safe from the right side. Then blasted again. There was no factory anno left when I got done. It was a complete "in the white" when I sprayed it.

[Z ME FLY]

Everyone is gonna scream annodize it. I on the other hand have had no issues with just Norrels. I have a Stag lower that I did a bunch off work to, a few years back. I completely blasted it and coated it with Norrels. I have a couple thousand rounds through it. I pulled the FCG out recently to naval jelly the parts. The FCG holes are still coated. The pins had slight wear on them, and I mean slight.


If you use Norrels, follow the instructions to the T. You will have zero problems.

DB2 got any pictures? Yes I am told lowers should be anodized because it actually treats the lower and is suppose to strengthen it. I'm sure things will be fine since they aren't war rifles or anything.

I like the anodized 80%s since I just finished milling and finishing one that was anodized and it looks GREAT! the engraving looks awesome in the silver and there is no mistake that it was an 80% before since I left the fire control pocket milled out just unfinished.

[eaglemike]

Anodizing isn't going to add strength to the aluminum. It adds a scratch resistant coating. The surface will be harder. Yes, the type III is harder, thicker, and more scratch resistant. It normally builds .0005" and penetrates the same amount. Hard ano is also non-conductive. It also prevents corrosion. 7075 can corrode. Not likely to be a real problem if you keep it maintained..... Inter-granular corrosion is possible in certain environments.
all the best,
Mike

[DB2]

DB2 got any pictures? Yes I am told lowers should be anodized because it actually treats the lower and is suppose to strengthen it. I'm sure things will be fine since they aren't war rifles or anything.

I like the anodized 80%s since I just finished milling and finishing one that was anodized and it looks GREAT! the engraving looks awesome in the silver and there is no mistake that it was an 80% before since I left the fire control pocket milled out just unfinished.

Pics of? No not really. The wear is gone since i naval jellied the parts to get the paint off. Not really any pics of the gun, I'm not really in to showing my stuff. But here is an older pic of it complete.

[croc4]

do both....

I anodize then use norells moly. Its not hard to get good results from home anodizing, I'm still working out the bugs, but I get a pretty good results, but the finish is not quite a perfect match when compared to the uppers I have. But after the moly it looks really darn perfect match.


Croc4

[craneman]

Thanks for the advise so far. Looks and color matching a way down on the list for me personally. Fit, function, and longevity are the main priorities. Don't get me wrong. I don't want it to look like a wino carved it out with a leatherman and a ballpeen hammer under a freeway overpass, but small imperfections are no big deal. I do want to shoot it alot, and I guess I am just paranoid that a couple of thousand rounds and the lower will be shot out.

Hey croc4, When you used the Norrell's over the type II I assume that you sand blasted it first?

[Forestgnome]

Absolutely no need to anodize it. Anodizing is great for corrosion resistance, and that's primarily why it's done. If you plan on carrying your rifle in the jungle for a few weeks, anodize it. Otherwise keep it cleaned and lubed and you're good to go.

[VaderSpade]

I have yet to see anybody put up a picture of a AR that has had ANY problems due to not being anodized.

[croc4]

nah, just cleaned the surface from dirt/oil. Tossed in in the oven to get to temp, then airbrushed it, then bake to cure.

I may be off base here, but the surface of the lower once anodized does have a honey comb texture to it (under high magnification), so my theory was/is that this should have some thing for the paint to hold to.
So far its held up, but I have not ran a lot of rounds through the ones I've built and I pretty careful in my handling of any firearm (I like them to stay as pristine as posisble)

Croc4

[DB2]

Norrels will stick better to a fresh blasted surface than it will to an anodized surface. I have removed moly resin from from old uppers that were refinished while in service. And I was able to do it and save the anodize underneath. You can't do that with a blasted or parked surface your going to spray.

[craneman]

Thank You all for the insights and advice. I think I have it narrowed down to home anodizing or Norrells. Maybe both like croc4 did. I will post pics when its done, however with my work schedule, that may be awhile.

[eaglemike]

I did a major typo above, I'll go back and fix it. Hard ano build up is typically .0005", i.e. reduces hole diameter .001" Duh!!!

Sorry!!