Long Rivet From Hell...VICTORY!!! Post #32

[SJgunguy24]

I have tried pounding on the concrete garage floor, and it does transfer a significantly larger amount of the blow into the rivet. But this made the punches bend and snap a lot faster. I do have some 1/4" steel flat I can use to do the method you described above. I think another problem is that I did try using a new punch to punch out all the junk inside the rivet hole, but the punch tip has now mushroomed. This can cause the punch to get stuck inside the trunnion as the mushroomed tip seals itself against the walls of the trunnion hole. This is why I believe the current broken pieces of punch won't come out so easily. Should I continue anyways?

No, put the tools away for the night and sleep on it. Trust me on this.

[oogabooga]

OK. I feel a little silly seeing as the first thing I did after I popped this summab**ch out was think, "I need to tell Calguns." But I got it out! It took TWO tungsten carbide and cobalt tipped drill bits. One of them dulled out about 3/4 of the way through. I don't have a grinding wheel or drill bit gauges, so being the wasteful American I am, I just bought another one. They're ~$5 at OSH. I'm sure it has to do with me not running it at the minimum 2000RPM suggested on the back of the packaging. I know carbide (especially carbide tipped) drill bits are more brittle and need to be run at higher RPMs. But I ran it at a lower RPM. It might just be my mind saying steel->lower RPM, and the fact it makes me believe I have more control over it, but whatever. I ain't a pro machinist. And it worked. But I'm sure someone here can give a lot better direction on the subject.

So message to future dumbass who did what I did:
Get one (or two) 5/32" Artu Tungsten Carbide and Cobalt Tipped Drill Bit (or the hardest drill bit you can get like a Carbide or Cobalt by itself). Tighten the chuck on your drill press (or cordless drill if you're a man) ridiculously tight since you have to push down hard on the drill press (not too hard, though. But it sure as hell ain't going to slip through like butter). The chuck is probably going to slip on the drill bit shaft, so you're going to have to reposition the drill bit in the chuck and retighten a whole bunch of times. Since you'll probably be retightening the drill bit, you might as well take the time to wipe off the work area and also the drill bit. The sludge of the very fine chips and cutting oil gets in the way. Also liberally apply cutting oil.

I'm sure there are better ways to do it, and better drill bits to use. But this is just what I had with me.

Anyway, here is the rear trunnion with a nasty chip on the left corner from when I was pounding on it, supported by a vise. It will always be a reminder of this weekend. There is a brand new drill bit, and the dulled out one to its right. And finally the remainder of the rivet that just slid out at the end. I think i SLIGHTLY egged out the hole, but it's worth it.

Moral of the story: you guys were right. Don't punch out the long rivets unless you drill all the way through. Thanks for all the help, guys!

[nicoroshi]

Congrats!
I knew you'd get it.
Like stated before you are not he first to have a rivet that didn't want to budge.
In my case it was a barrel pin that I ended up drilling out, and replacing.
The little ding on the back of the trunnion I wouldn't worry about. It's an AK after all.

[oogabooga]

Congrats!
I knew you'd get it.
Like stated before you are not he first to have a rivet that didn't want to budge.
In my case it was a barrel pin that I ended up drilling out, and replacing.
The little ding on the back of the trunnion I wouldn't worry about. It's an AK after all.

Thanks! You guys' encouragement surely helped me get the bugger out. Had you guys stomped all over my dick, pointed, and laughed, I'd be waiting for a new rear trunnion in the mail right about now.

Luckily I've been, well, lucky with barrel pins. Been able to just punch them out. Knock on wood.

Yea, but it's a ~$850 AK parts kit, and that ding makes me cry inside
But yea, it's an AK. Building this expensive AK with cheap methods sure adds a lot of "character"

[Z ME FLY]

Thanks! You guys' encouragement surely helped me get the bugger out. Had you guys stomped all over my dick, pointed, and laughed, I'd be waiting for a new rear trunnion in the mail right about now.

Luckily I've been, well, lucky with barrel pins. Been able to just punch them out. Knock on wood.

Yea, but it's a ~$850 AK parts kit, and that ding makes me cry inside
But yea, it's an AK. Building this expensive AK with cheap methods sure adds a lot of "character"

$850 parts kit? You building a yugo krink huh? just throwing the option out there since I don't know how far along in the build you are but.... if you can grab a triangle sidefolder for yours it would be the beez neez. The UF stock is cool but the sidefolder is very comfortable to shoot. Plus if it's a krink, you have to fix the stock anyways.

[oogabooga]

$850 parts kit? You building a yugo krink huh? just throwing the option out there since I don't know how far along in the build you are but.... if you can grab a triangle sidefolder for yours it would be the beez neez. The UF stock is cool but the sidefolder is very comfortable to shoot. Plus if it's a krink, you have to fix the stock anyways.

You, sir, are correct. I'm actually going to build this into a pistol (or that's the plan) using the UF trunnion without drilling the UF stock holes. So basically just drilling the rivet holes and installing the trunnion. (I've got AK-builder's seemingly discontinued Yugo M92 AK pistol flats that accommodate this). So in the event for some reason I want to turn it into a rifle, I can more easily slap on the UF stock and a permanent barrel extension. The sidefolders do look a lot more solid and comfortable. Especially when it comes to cheekweld. Next project?

Edit: "more easily slap on" as in I'd still have to drill holes and modify the receiver and such. Just throwin that out there for the skeptics

[Z ME FLY]

You, sir, are correct. I'm actually going to build this into a pistol (or that's the plan) using the UF trunnion without drilling the UF stock holes. So basically just drilling the rivet holes and installing the trunnion. (I've got AK-builder's seemingly discontinued Yugo M92 AK pistol flats that accommodate this). So in the event for some reason I want to turn it into a rifle, I can more easily slap on the UF stock and a permanent barrel extension. The sidefolders do look a lot more solid and comfortable. Especially when it comes to cheekweld. Next project?

Edit: "more easily slap on" as in I'd still have to drill holes and modify the receiver and such. Just throwin that out there for the skeptics

krink pistol NOOOOO!!!!!!! haha J/K!

At least with the UF you can always cut out the holes like you said to put it on... For the most part I hate to see krink kits turned into pistols because that's a mighty expensive pistol kit! haha if I had the money I would think about one too.

[oogabooga]

krink pistol NOOOOO!!!!!!! haha J/K!

At least with the UF you can always cut out the holes like you said to put it on... For the most part I hate to see krink kits turned into pistols because that's a mighty expensive pistol kit! haha if I had the money I would think about one too.

It has to be done! Ever since I saw this pic a couple years ago, I fell in love. I tried finding the original post, but it was built at a build party here in Cali, if the bumper sticker didn't give it away lol. But credit to the builder. You can bet you can expect more "woops" threads from me in the future

[SJgunguy24]

Thanks! You guys' encouragement surely helped me get the bugger out. Had you guys stomped all over my dick, pointed, and laughed, I'd be waiting for a new rear trunnion in the mail right about now.

Luckily I've been, well, lucky with barrel pins. Been able to just punch them out. Knock on wood.

Yea, but it's a ~$850 AK parts kit, and that ding makes me cry inside
But yea, it's an AK. Building this expensive AK with cheap methods sure adds a lot of "character"

Stomp on your dick and laugh at you? Never, at least be smart about it(see my sig line).
Now if you get stuck like this again, there are some here you can PM for advice and help. I'm sure you'll know how they are by some of the replies. Hell some guy's even get paid to do silly crap like building and fixing guns.

[Z ME FLY]

Stomp on your dick and laugh at you? Never, at least be smart about it(see my sig line).
Now if you get stuck like this again, there are some here you can PM for advice and help. I'm sure you'll know how they are by some of the replies. Hell some guy's even get paid to do silly crap like building and fixing guns.

Just remember you can always just post up a question.... wait an hour or two and you will get some responses..

Yes I need one of those crazy jobs... building and fixing guns for a living would be great

[nicoroshi]

Stomp on your dick and laugh at you? Never, at least be smart about it(see my sig line).
Now if you get stuck like this again, there are some here you can PM for advice and help. I'm sure you'll know how they are by some of the replies. Hell some guy's even get paid to do silly crap like building and fixing guns.

Rubbing it in eh SJGunGuy :P
Personally I have plenty of fun with my own projects, and helping friends build out their kits. No need to do it on a schedule as that kind of sucks some of the fun out of it for me.

To the OP:
$850 to build a pistol out of that Krink!
If that's your wish then so be it.
My latest pistol build was made with spare parts. Turned, and cut an old Yugo M-70 barrel, used a Romanian underfolder rear trunnion I got from a friend in trade for a set of refinished Romy furniture I had, Bought a cheapo $135 Egyptian kit for the rest, and bent the flat.
Found a Bulgy FSB/GB at KVAR, and found a 4 piece Flash hider for $60.
With all that I think I will be into it for $410 when all is said , and done (includes Hogue grip, New Tapco G2 double hook, and bluing supplies).

As for the comfort of an underfolding stock. Wrap a little paracord on the cheek weld, and rear 'U', and it's just fine.
Not any worse than wooden stock with metal butt plate IMHO.
I love shooting my Yugo. Easily shoot 100+ rounds without shoulder issues.

[oogabooga]

Stomp on your dick and laugh at you? Never, at least be smart about it(see my sig line).
Now if you get stuck like this again, there are some here you can PM for advice and help. I'm sure you'll know how they are by some of the replies. Hell some guy's even get paid to do silly crap like building and fixing guns.

Just remember you can always just post up a question.... wait an hour or two and you will get some responses..

Yes I need one of those crazy jobs... building and fixing guns for a living would be great

Haha yea. I know I'm safer from the dick stomping here than I am on other boards. And it's true that you guys work FAST! I've asked questions at o-dark-thirty (I'm a night owl) and have had my questions answered within minutes as well. So I'll be sure to come back if I forget how to pull a trigger or wonder why my AK "lower receiver" doesn't lock back on the last round (jokes).

Rubbing it in eh SJGunGuy :P
Personally I have plenty of fun with my own projects, and helping friends build out their kits. No need to do it on a schedule as that kind of sucks some of the fun out of it for me.

To the OP:
$850 to build a pistol out of that Krink!
If that's your wish then so be it.
My latest pistol build was made with spare parts. Turned, and cut an old Yugo M-70 barrel, used a Romanian underfolder rear trunnion I got from a friend in trade for a set of refinished Romy furniture I had, Bought a cheapo $135 Egyptian kit for the rest, and bent the flat.
Found a Bulgy FSB/GB at KVAR, and found a 4 piece Flash hider for $60.
With all that I think I will be into it for $410 when all is said , and done (includes Hogue grip, New Tapco G2 double hook, and bluing supplies).

As for the comfort of an underfolding stock. Wrap a little paracord on the cheek weld, and rear 'U', and it's just fine.
Not any worse than wooden stock with metal butt plate IMHO.
I love shooting my Yugo. Easily shoot 100+ rounds without shoulder issues.

I could have gone the cheap pistol route. Hell, I could've bought 2 dracos for the price of this build and forgone all this building. But the look of the M92 stands out to me and looks like it was MADE to be an SBR/pistol. The dracos and chopped builds are awesome, don't get me wrong. I'd get one in a heartbeat. But they do look like chop builds. The M92 is, for one, in 7.62x39. I don't want to get another caliber, and when I think of AK, I think of 7.62x39 anyway. And it's also got that proprietary look. The front sight/gas block doesn't look like it was a front sight that was cut and welded to the gas block. the rear sight and hinging top cover on the M92 is unique. I don't know. I have my utilitarian guns, and I have my novelty guns. This one definitely falls under novelty

And that paracord wrap around the "U" of the stock seems like it would help tons. There are lots of sharp edges on that thing, too, that paracord could probably help with. And it looks low profile and doesn't add much to your build.

[nicoroshi]

In the end it's gonna be your gun so by all means build it as you'd like it.
I admit the little differences of the Krink are just 'cool'.
I actually bought a one piece GB/FSB/ 24x1.5mm thread for my pistol with a Bulgarian 4 piece muzzle device. I tried the 'cut, and weld the FSB to GB' route but had issues with trying to get a detent for the muzzle device to work correctly (among other things) so decided instead of cutting, and building another one I would just buy the one piece.

Do the paracord. Found a bunch of it rather cheaply at REI.
My folder still locks closed, and it helps add that (just enough) padding to the metal stock.
I also wrapped the cheek weld, and made magpuls while I was at it. Was plenty in the roll for all of it.

[Toten Kopf]

This tutorial may be helpful next time...Go to the second post for the .pdf version.

http://www.gunco.net/forums/f163/rear-trunnion-rivet-removal-3420/