A milled frankenstein underfolder

[nicoroshi]

Looks good...

*paging Nico!*

He has a nice Milled Yugo UF he rewelded himself.

Wha? Who? Me?

LMAO.

Nice work going on there. Watch the inclusions on the rear weld. may wish to run a grinder down it, and run a cap on it to make sure it's solid.
I agree that the bottle needs to be tied off. I have seen one pop. Not pretty. They spin in all strange directions, and it was a brick wall that finally stopped it (punched a nice round hole through it!).

VZ58 has a nice tutorial on how to for those guys wishing to do this. Not that tough if you take your time, and line everything up nice. My Milled Yugo M-70 underfolder is one of my favorite rifles. Cycles like it's warm buttered, and very accurate with an Aimpoint mounted, and new Green Mountain barrel installed.
Couple of pics for ya guys who are interested.

The start


The middle



The end


How she shoots 10 at 100yards


Keep up the good work. She'll be the pride of your collection.

[4thSBCT]

Watch the inclusions on the rear weld.

I'm so sick of filing though

[nicoroshi]

I have plenty of practice with a 4" grinder (been using them in my trade for more than 20 years). Trick is to get it nice, and close then finish with a file. Interior I thank the dremel tool for. Picked up a cheap single speed Craftsman for $30 at OSH. Worth every penny.
Don't get to sick of filing yet. On mine I had to file a groove under the hammer spring as well as remove some metal around the base of the trigger (on the inside) to get it to reset, and break nicely. This was due to the base metal being rather thick. I also had to countersink the axis pin holes so that the pins traveled far enough into the receiver so I could install the retaining plate in the grooves.
Plenty of fit up involved but in the end it has the tightest tolerances of any of my builds, and runs like a champ.
Yep......It's my favorite build out of the 7 I have worked on. Probably why I dumped the cash for a new barrel, and an Aimpoint for her.
Gotta spoil the sweet ones.
The file is your friend.

[E-120]

Nice work.

[Mikeb]

What kind of steel is the receiver? Is the weld hard? Do you need to draw the reeceiver after welding? I know with welding alloy steel you often have to bring the peice up to 7 or 8 hundred degrees to draw the hardness out of the weld area.
Oh, building welding carts is fun...
take care
Mike

[SJgunguy24]

What kind of steel is the receiver? Is the weld hard? Do you need to draw the reeceiver after welding? I know with welding alloy steel you often have to bring the peice up to 7 or 8 hundred degrees to draw the hardness out of the weld area.
Oh, building welding carts is fun...
take care
Mike

VZ58 makes his plates from 1018 and 4130. You can buy repair sections with the rails and ejector done already. Looks easy, just gotta have a good fit up and bevel the edges to get full penetration.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CBUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwlawarehouse.com%2Fstore_front%2Fak_variants%2Fm70_repair_section%2F&ei=9s8LTPfPHaCuNce_kLUE&usg=AFQjCNGCAYM0iBSIP0e0fKDB5UPYlPZs7w

[Q]

I kinda want to try rewelding one of these. If I did it would be the Yugo UF..
Here's a pic from Iraq. I had some from Bosnia but I can't find them.

[nicoroshi]

The welding is not tough but I do recommend a 220 mig welder with 75%Argon 25% CO2 mix shield gas for a clean weld. It does not need to be heat treated after welded but I did spot heat treat my axis pin holes, and ejector (just like for a flat bend build).
Basically the section we're replacing doesn't take much force. It only hold the rear, and front of the receiver together as well as holding the FCG, and ejector.
The front, and rear stubs are heat treated already. Just stay 1/2" away from the locking lugs with your weld bead so that the hardness is not effected by the weld heat.

BTW that pic above.
Dude has the rear sight set for 200 yards, and '0' cheek weld. Looks like he's just blowing off rounds without aiming as his eye appears a good 2" above the sight line.

Apex used to have Yugo M-70 milled kits for $250 a few months ago (where I got mine) but it appears that they only have the screw in barrel M64 kits in stock right now (for milled Yugo).

Looking forward to some more pics from the OP on his build.

[4thSBCT]

Looking forward to some more pics from the OP on his build.

I am at work right now finishing the cleanup of the inside welds and I also trimmed most of the bottums section off the plates. I left a couple milimeters of material on the bottum until I all the holes drilled and bolt and carrier riding smooth. I ground and capped some of the inclusion on the welds but not all and to tell you the truth Im over trying to get every little pok mark.

Hopefully by tom I'll have the rec finished and I'll post pics at that time. These milled recievers have a special place in my heart now for AKs. I fell like I could throw this reciever in the lakes of hell and nothing would happen to it. I love it.

I notice my front stub has a recessed spot for the barrel pin like that of stamped trunnions and some stubs have slab sides. Anyone have any info on this?

[munkeeboi]

Nice work 4th, Got this back from Turbothis. Smooth as a whistle and solid as a rock.

[Z ME FLY]

Nice work 4th, Got this back from Turbothis. Smooth as a whistle and solid as a rock.

We gotta go shooting next time I am down there.

[nicoroshi]

There is something to be said for the Yugo rifles in general, and especially the milled receiver ones.
I would feel alright throwing my pressed receiver builds out of a moving car, and them still functioning. My milled I would feel comfortable running it over with said car, and it still functioning.
Heavy little buggers though. I'd hate to carry one all day if in a battle situation.

The Yugos also have heavier barrels, top covers, and IMHO just a more solid construction than other makes.

Nice re-weld from Turbothis munkeeboi.

[4thSBCT]

wish i had more progress to report but between watching my 8 month old son and having my dremel break I hardly got to put any time in on it. At least I was able to finish shaping the ejector from a rectangle, Also made the cut outs for the bolt and carrier and got them to ride smooth in the receiver. My rear stub came with the bolt carrier cut out intact but when testing my carrier with recoil spring I noticed it would jump off the rails when it reach the back of the reciever. This seemed strange since it was the factory work...sooo..I just added some weld material to each cut out to tighten up the space...problem solved....man I love welding. Now, I will just enjoy the little stabing metal shavings in my hands and arms...maybe someday I'll try a pair of gloves out....maybe.

[TURBOELKY]

Looking good bro. Dont bother with the gloves, it just pushed the metal in deeper

[4thSBCT]

went to work on my yugo today and started feeling down.....I thought about the rifle as a finished build and was just not feeling it. I'm usually and AK purist.... but after having my usual case of beer things started getting a little crazy. I'll let the pictures do the explaining since I'm still drinking. All I have left is the trigger guard and some welding on the bottum and its finished. The holes I need to drill for the trigger guard are right over the welds on either side and since the weld much stronger than the metal your working on its being a real beotch..




Still working on the bottum


Nice and flush

nice and flush my ***, can someone explain whats up with the extra long axis pins?