Can't remove tight AR buffer tube

[RogueSniper]

I'm trying to take the commercial buffer tube off a Colt lower and install my Vltor milspec. It's stuck tight, I can't even budge it. I've got the following tools that I've used:
Guntec USA armorer's AR wrench
Model 1 AR vise block
Hair dryer
Propane torch
Butane microtorch
Open end wrench
Strap wrench (from Sears)

If it's got Loktite on it, then I thought the heat would loosen it up. Has anyone tried the Kroil solvent to loosen up the Loktite? What else could be causing it to bind up and preventing me to loosen up the tube?

[diginit]

Ouch, Heat should do it, But if you heat only the buffer tube, It will expand in the reciever making it tighter. You would need to heat the reciever on the outside which can discolor or disfigure it. Try the oven with just enough time to warm the reciever and not the tube. Did you use red or blue locktite? I can understand why it has seized. Use blue locktite on the castle nut only next time to keep it from backing off, Not on the reciever to tube connection.
There is another way. But it would involve cutting the tube an inch or so from the reciever. Then cutting a couple of groves on the inside with a hack saw blade to relieve pressure, being careful not to cut the threads in the reciever and spin the tube out.
I wouldn't recommend this unless you have done it before.

If you have a vise block, slide a 3' piece of pipe (a breaker bar) on the wrench handle to increase the torque. This will give you more power with less effort. Just be careful not to snap the reciever.

[CHS]

Drill a hole in the body of the tube, then use a screwdriver through that hole as a wrench to get it off.

It's worked for me before.

[Noobert]

I've used channel lock pliers before to good effect, although it completely destroyed the tube

[CHS]

I've used channel lock pliers before to good effect, although it completely destroyed the tube

It's a commercial tube. Good riddance

[RogueSniper]

Did you use red or blue locktite? I can understand why it has seized. Use blue locktite on the castle nut only next time to keep it from backing off, Not on the reciever to tube connection.

It's the factory buffer tube. I can't understand why they would put loktite on it?

I've used channel lock pliers before to good effect, although it completely destroyed the tube

It's a commercial tube. Good riddance

I'm thinking the same thing, but I don't want to wreck the tube if it isn't going to come off, then I'd be in bigger trouble. I need to find a Heat Gun. What temperature does it take before Red Loktite (worse case scenario) softens? When I removed the Front Pivot screw, there was Red on the threads but it only took a couple of determined minutes of twisting the screwdriver before came off, and it came off pretty easily.

If you have a vise block, slide a 3' piece of pipe (a breaker bar) on the wrench handle to increase the torque. This will give you more power with less effort. Just be careful not to snap the reciever.

I can feel the whole lower torquing when I put pressure on the tube. Damn you, COLT!!!

[kendog4570]

Red loctite will release at around 425-450 F. I doubt there is any on a factory tube. The red stuff on the pivot screw is not a thread locker, more like a nylon patch material to keep the parts from vibrating apart.
I use a GI type combo wrench with a 1/2" breaker bar. Secure the lower in a large, solid, well padded vise and apply steady, even force to the bar. Keep a hand on the wrench where it engages the tube to keep it from popping off. Try not to side load or twist the tube away from its axis. Instead of using the mag well block, grab the whole lower in the padded vise (being carfeul not to crush it) and support it at the tube ring area. Dont tighten it in the vise so much as to crush it, just snug it to trap it and support it. You can even fill the trigger well with snug fitting pieces of wood or plastic (Nylon or Delrin) to add support.
Hope this helps.
Ken

[CHS]

There shouldn't be a commercial tube on a factory Colt.

Someone added it afterward.

[RogueSniper]

Red loctite will release at around 425-450 F. I doubt there is any on a factory tube. The red stuff on the pivot screw is not a thread locker, more like a nylon patch material to keep the parts from vibrating apart.
I use a GI type combo wrench with a 1/2" breaker bar. Secure the lower in a large, solid, well padded vise and apply steady, even force to the bar. Keep a hand on the wrench where it engages the tube to keep it from popping off. Try not to side load or twist the tube away from its axis. Instead of using the mag well block, grab the whole lower in the padded vise (being carfeul not to crush it) and support it at the tube ring area. Dont tighten it in the vise so much as to crush it, just snug it to trap it and support it. You can even fill the trigger well with snug fitting pieces of wood or plastic (Nylon or Delrin) to add support.
Hope this helps.
Ken

Good advice. I doubt the factory overtorqued the tube. I'll be gentle with it. If it doesn't let go, as a last resort, I'm taking to a gunsmith.

[RogueSniper]

There shouldn't be a commercial tube on a factory Colt.

Someone added it afterward.

It's original, I'm the first and only owner. I'll put a caliper on it to double check the dimensions. I just want to replace the A2 with a Vltor EMOD.

[CHS]

It's original, I'm the first and only owner. I'll put a caliper on it to double check the dimensions. I just want to replace the A2 with a Vltor EMOD.

OOOOOOHHH ok.. You said commercial.

Commercial implies a carbine tube. Commercial vs. Milspec.

There's only one A2 tube.

[RogueSniper]

Really? Didn't know that. I just put bullets in it and shoot it! When it stops working, I just grab my secondary and keep shooting until all the bad guys are gone. I just figured it was commercial, being a Colt A2 Target Sporter. I'm still slogging my way through my AR education. :P

[ar15barrels]

Drill a hole in the body of the tube, then use a screwdriver through that hole as a wrench to get it off.

It's worked for me before.

Savages!

I have never needed more than heat to break loctite and pure leverage on a proper wrench to break a castle nut loose from the staking.

[ar15barrels]

Really? Didn't know that. I just put bullets in it and shoot it! When it stops working, I just grab my secondary and keep shooting until all the bad guys are gone. I just figured it was commercial, being a Colt A2 Target Sporter. I'm still slogging my way through my AR education. :P

You need to specify what TYPE of buffer tube you are working with...

[RogueSniper]

You need to specify what TYPE of buffer tube you are working with...

I have the one on the Left, A2.