Replacing Barrel on M91/30?

[hunteran]

I just got a M91/30 and the bore is looking pretty crappy. The previous owner said that it occasionally keyholes so it looks like it might be in need to a new barrel. I found a place that sells them for pretty cheap so finding a new barrel to use wouldn't be a problem. However, how would one go about changing the barrel? Anyone in the Chico/Sacramento area have the proper tools and know-how to change Mosin barrel and headspace it?

[gunboat]

I would think that the present cost of these rifles would make a barrel change uneconomical. Headspacing a barrel may require a lathe depending on whether the barrel is short chambered or not. I can not imagine a smith changing out a MN barrel for less than $100 -- my ha-penny

[TRICKSTER]

The cheapest price for labor on a re-barrel that I could find was $100 and you supply the barrel. You can buy a new 91/30 for less than that. It's not worth it. Scrap the rifle for parts, sell them, and buy a new one.

[Noonanda]

if you are interested in a barreled receiver let me know, Ive got some with all matching parts (bolt/magwell) that would probably be just what you want

[hunteran]

I'll clean it up and see how it shoots. Is counterboring something that I could do by myself (if not, how much does it usually cost to have it done)? I'm pretty sure that I could borrow the necessary tools from my school's machine shop if I asked my professor.

Noonanda, I would totally jump on your offer but I'm up in Chico right now. If I'm not able to fix this thing I'd definitely be interested one of those barreled receivers come summer when I get home from school.

[gunboat]

Often Keyholing is caused by a too small diameter bullet - are you handloading ?
Counterboring is an arsenal way to cut a new crown - usually so the barrel remains the same length for bayonet attachment. Perhaps you only need to recrown yours -- It can be done by hand but the tools are a bit expensive - check brownells -- or check with your local smith for his cost to recrown your barrel -- it could provide an easy fix if the rest of the bore is ok --
my ha-penny

[hunteran]

I'm not handloading, I just plan on shooting the cheap surplus stuff. As far as the tools go, all I'd need is a reamer right? The machine shop at my school has one of those and I'm pretty sure I could get permission to borrow a reamer of the proper size.

[TRAP55]

http://www.buymilsurp.com/barrel-very-good-bore-m9130-mosin-nagant-rifle-p-89.html

[gunboat]

You will need a piloted counter bore (spot facer) to do the job -- You will be removing more material than is suitable for a reamer and usually reamers do not cut well on the end teeth. After you counterbore you will still need to crown. You seem fixated on a counterbore, recrowning is the first choice unless the bore is damaged more than about a 1/8" deep. Crowning can be done best in a lathe - if you can chuck up the barreled action - or with the proper hand tools if you can't.
The purpose of counterboring/crowning is to get a barrel end perfectly square with the bore. the crown is to remove any small burrs left from tool cutting.
With good light you should be able to see if the end of the bore is washed out or damaged.
If you don't care about the weapon being "original" and the bore end is really damaged, just hack off about an inch and recrown. That would probably require a sight replacement as well. ---- my ha-penny

[ar15barrels]

Crowning can be done best in a lathe - if you can chuck up the barreled action

Which he would NOT be able to do at school due to the "no firearms on school grounds" law.