1911 refinish

[RolinThundr]

I have a 1911 that I want to refinish in matte black/blued and would like some DIY advice/guidance. I want to use a product that will give me the color I want, but will be a durable protective coating as well, resistant to scratching, peeling and flaking. Someone mentioned a product that you paint on and then bake to bond the coating with the metal. Anyway, I want a product that is as close to factory durable as DIY can get, something that isn't going to start coming off from normal wear and tear, or wash off if wet. Suggestions?? Any suggestions on techniques to apply the paint/coating are welcome as well. Also, will I need to strip off the old paint and/or use a primer? Suggestions on what primer to use (if applicable) are needed as well.

Edit: The frame, which is what I want to refinish, is forged steel.

[uxo2]

http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=19

[CHS]

Manganese phosphate. AKA Parkerizing.

It will be the most durable true finish you can do, especially at home.

After that you could Dura-coat it for even more durability, but that's not a finish. It's basically a paint.

[RolinThundr]

I was searching through Brownell's and found these two products: CERAKOTE™ CERAMIC COATINGS & GUN-KOTE™ OVEN CURE GUN FINISH. Anyone have any experience with these? Recommend them? Is it a need to strip away the old finish and if so what techniques are best? Also, some of the postings I saw on the other site mentioned degreasing the parts that were to be refinished, best technique & product for this?

[tpowers]

For best results with Cerakote a complete stripping is required. Chemically and Sand blast. Use gloves, don't touch it then coat it and put it in the oven. NIC has a couple of air cure colors that may be a little easier to apply if you are doing it yourself. To be honest with you the cost that you will spend in materials and potential mistakes it may be worth finding someone to do cerakote for you. Brownells stuff is not very tough and will come off with brake cleaner. It peels right off after a short time. Duracoat is probably one of the easiest do it yourself options, but it doesn't hold up as well as cerakote. Hope this helps.
Good luck

[PMMA92]

For best results with Cerakote a complete stripping is required. Chemically and Sand blast. Use gloves, don't touch it then coat it and put it in the oven. NIC has a couple of air cure colors that may be a little easier to apply if you are doing it yourself. To be honest with you the cost that you will spend in materials and potential mistakes it may be worth finding someone to do cerakote for you. Brownells stuff is not very tough and will come off with brake cleaner. It peels right off after a short time. Duracoat is probably one of the easiest do it yourself options, but it doesn't hold up as well as cerakote. Hope this helps.
Good luck

Are the rails on 1911 going to be sandblasted and koted as well? Will it affect the slide to frame fit and the tolerance in the pins, is it gonna be the same as before it was refinished?

[tpowers]

Are the rails on 1911 going to be sandblasted and koted as well? Will it affect the slide to frame fit and the tolerance in the pins, is it gonna be the same as before it was refinished?

A lot of that depends on the manufacturer. For example a Kimber can be completely coated with minimal amount of material removal during reassembly. However a LesBaer or a Nighthawk it is best to mask the rails and plug the holes.

[uxo2]

CeraCoat....KG guncoat and Norrells Moly resin go on very thin
and do not interfer with internal critical fit dimensions.

I have applied KG and Norrells with a 20dollar airbrush kit from testors.

As stated above.
Preparation is EVERYTHING

[PMMA92]

A lot of that depends on the manufacturer. For example a Kimber can be completely coated with minimal amount of material removal during reassembly. However a LesBaer or a Nighthawk it is best to mask the rails and plug the holes.

Can a regular masking tape strong enough to hold against regular blasting? I saw these pencil blaster over the web and I wonder if this can do the job for small projects?

[bear]

Never tried it, but I sure like the compactness and low air throughput requirement of that one. Looks about perfect for a 1911-sized piece of work.
Thanks for the link.

[tpowers]

Can a regular masking tape strong enough to hold against regular blasting? I saw these pencil blaster over the web and I wonder if this can do the job for small projects?

Regular 3m painters tape will usually hold up depending on the air pressure and properly putting the tape on. If there are any loose edges the grit will get under and peel off the tape. The grit will still tend to go everywhere, but it can protect areas that are not to be stripped. For your barrel you want some silicone plugs.