New glock slide causing heavy trigger pull

[Ranch hand]

[G-forceJunkie]

Factory Glock slide or aftermarket slide? The only thing between the slide and upper that contact in the trigger department would be the trigger bar pulling the firing pin back, and the the trigger bar depressing the firing pin safety. I'm guessing your slide is aftermarket and something is not machined right. Maybe the firing pin saftey plunger hole not allowing it to smoothly slide up or the firing pin channel giving you a whole lot of firing pin tang/trigger bar engaugement.

[Ranch hand]

It is a aftermarket slide. It’s a combat master slide from taran. They had a sale plus owed me a little money so I justified the cost but now I’m thinking I would have been better off milling my oem slide

[G-forceJunkie]

You are always better staying with factory parts. I used to be a Glock Armorer...most of my work was removing aftermarket parts, throwing them in the trash while shaking my head, putting in factory parts and bingo, the guns run 100% again.

[hermosabeach]

Call them and send it in

Does new slide have an RMR cut?

If yes- take out the RMR cover screws. If RMR screws are too long they can hit slide internals

[Tere_Hanges]

It might get better after a few hundred rounds.

I got a Zaffiri slide for my Glock 34 and it was very "stiff". Was getting light primer strikes. After about 200rds it seems to have "broken in".

[rkt88edmo]

I'd contact Taran, also possible that the firing pin channel doesn't have the same depth so the spring is already precompressed. You should be able to test that part with the assembled slide off the frame. Between that and the FP safety you should be able to quantify where the extra force required is coming from.

Also, is the Taran slide advertised as drop=in or semi-drop in, because if it is semi, there may be fitting that you have accepted the responsiblity to complete.

[Ranch hand]

I'd contact Taran, also possible that the firing pin channel doesn't have the same depth so the spring is already precompressed. You should be able to test that part with the assembled slide off the frame. Between that and the FP safety you should be able to quantify where the extra force required is coming from.

Also, is the Taran slide advertised as drop=in or semi-drop in, because if it is semi, there may be fitting that you have accepted the responsiblity to complete.

[Ranch hand]

If I put the new slide on my g34 that also has the timney trigger the trigger is back to normal. I feel like I’m getting closer but still don’t understand what’s happening

[SkyHawk]

Take the FP safety out completely, then dry fire. If the problem still exists, you can rule out the safety and start focusing on the striker channel.

Be sure the firing pin channel is not squeezing the striker spacer sleeve at the gap where the toe of the striker slides back and forth. If there is any drag on that striker toe in that gap, it will present as a heavier trigger pull. If the striker channel is a little undersize, then perhaps that type of squeeze could happen.

The reason the Timney trigger feels normal is because the Timney catches the striker toe in the fully cocked position, so pulling the trigger does not have to pull the striker back at all. The striker is fully cocked by way of the slide returning to battery and so you would never notice any extra drag if there was any.

Try inserting just the striker spacer sleeve into the channel, in the orientation it would normally be - does it go in with little effort? Do you notice the gap in the spacer get squeezed at all?