2011 80% Build Difficulty

[Gun1]

Lately I've been thinking about building a 2011 from an 80%. Based on what I've seen and heard milling the actual frame isn't that hard with the jigs and rail cutters. However, to actually assemble the gun with all of the internal parts, the upper, and the barrel, is it mostly drop-in or is it pretty labor intensive? Compared to a Polymer80 build, how difficult and labor intensive is it?

[edgerly779]

I built 2 1911s and registered before regs. Now can only be single shot so get your serial number and build. Or take a chance and convert to semi and hope you don;t get caught. Since your other thread has you thinking it is legal be a test case.

[9mmContagion]

Lately I've been thinking about building a 2011 from an 80%. Based on what I've seen and heard milling the actual frame isn't that hard with the jigs and rail cutters. However, to actually assemble the gun with all of the internal parts, the upper, and the barrel, is it mostly drop-in or is it pretty labor intensive? Compared to a Polymer80 build, how difficult and labor intensive is it?

It's quite labor intensive. Requires more specialized tooling, machining skills, hand fitting skills, patience, etc. Absolutely nothing like poly80. I suppose if you don't mind a sloppy 1911/2011 you could do it fairly easily. Although they make jigs and hand tools for rail cutting, it still takes some good knowledge and patience. Lots of lapping! If you don't know what lapping compound, calipers, and micrometers are, I wouldn't even try it.

[fishingolf]

Very labor intensive and fickle..but very rewarding.. btw, its also expensive

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[bababoris]

YouTube is your friend
This guy does a good job going over the tools required to properly complete a project

https://youtu.be/zFJoPC6aFjQ

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[ar15barrels]

Lately I've been thinking about building a 2011 from an 80%. Based on what I've seen and heard milling the actual frame isn't that hard with the jigs and rail cutters. However, to actually assemble the gun with all of the internal parts, the upper, and the barrel, is it mostly drop-in or is it pretty labor intensive? Compared to a Polymer80 build, how difficult and labor intensive is it?

Building a 1911 RIGHT is MUCH more labor intensive than a P80 glock.
On a glock, most parts simply drop-in.
On a 1911, almost every part has some amount of fitting to be done as most 1911 parts are made oversized so you CAN fit them.

You can buy drop-in parts and mostly just put it together but it will be rattly loose like a USGI gun.
The whole point of building a 1911 is usually to build a NICE one and that means lots of hand fitting.

Also, CA will not let you build a semi-auto pistol from an 80% frame anymore.

[Gun1]

Building a 1911 RIGHT is MUCH more labor intensive than a P80 glock.
On a glock, most parts simply drop-in.
On a 1911, almost every part has some amount of fitting to be done as most 1911 parts are made oversized so you CAN fit them.

You can buy drop-in parts and mostly just put it together but it will be rattly loose like a USGI gun.
The whole point of building a 1911 is usually to build a NICE one and that means lots of hand fitting.

Also, CA will not let you build a semi-auto pistol from an 80% frame anymore.

Well, you can build it single-shot. So if I don't mind building a rattling 1911 or 2011, it could be done, or nearly all of the parts that they sell for completing an 80% will require fitting every single piece?

[9mmContagion]

Well, you can build it single-shot. So if I don't mind building a rattling 1911 or 2011, it could be done, or nearly all of the parts that they sell for completing an 80% will require fitting every single piece?

[Gun1]

I’ve built/customized 5 1911s now. Not one part I used aside from springs was “drop in.” Granted I used quality parts, as that was the reason for customizing the guns I did.

I’d venture to say you’re going to have to fit some parts no matter what. The slide to frame, as well as the barrel to slide and frame. Thumb safeties and Beavertail safeties almost always have to be fit. Trigger will have to be fit. You can see where I’m going here. I don’t think I’ve ever had a part drop in.

I’ve heard some people who have rock islands swap barrels with drop in, but said barrels were also Rock Island. Maybe if you went ALL Rock Island parts, you’d find drop in pieces. But what’s the point? To me, if I’m building a 1911/2011 it’s all hand fit, smooth, and accurate.

Yeah, I've been told if it's a RIA swapping with RIA parts, most of the time they just drop in like a Glock. I'm also interested in this because I wanted to see if I could covert the RIA 2011 .45 ACP sold here in CA to 9mm. But that would require a swap of the upper and possibly the ejector as well, and if they don't just drop-in I might have a bit of a problem there.

[ar15barrels]

Yeah, I've been told if it's a RIA swapping with RIA parts, most of the time they just drop in like a Glock. I'm also interested in this because I wanted to see if I could covert the RIA 2011 .45 ACP sold here in CA to 9mm. But that would require a swap of the upper and possibly the ejector as well, and if they don't just drop-in I might have a bot of a problem there.

The ejector won't be a drop-in.
You have to drill the pin hole on the new ejector while the ejector is clamped into the frame.
It would also be normal to trim the ejector lenth and angles as well as blending the back of it to match your frame and slide.

If you can't handle something like that, you really don't have any business working on any types of guns.
Fitting a 1911 ejector is very simple work: drilling, filing, sanding and refinishing.

[9mmContagion]

Yeah, I've been told if it's a RIA swapping with RIA parts, most of the time they just drop in like a Glock. I'm also interested in this because I wanted to see if I could covert the RIA 2011 .45 ACP sold here in CA to 9mm. But that would require a swap of the upper and possibly the ejector as well, and if they don't just drop-in I might have a bit of a problem there.

Not only would the slide probably need fitting, but usually going from 45 to 9, you’ll need to move to a ramped barrel. This requires tooling to the frame. I have heard of people using GI ramped barrels with maybe 50% success rate, but ask any true gunsmith, and they’ll tell you that 9mm is meant to have a fully supported, ramped barrel in the 1911. Again you’ll need to fit barrel to slide in this situation again. Say for a miraculous reason the GI ramped barrel slipped into the slide with luck, you’ll still have to blend the frame’s feed ramp to the barrel.

Not only that, you’ll be fitting a new ejector, firing pin, extractor, firing pin stop, bushing (to slide and barrel), barrel link, and sights (most 1911 sights do not just fit right in dovetails).

These aren’t tasks that should just be completed with a dremel and hand drill like the Poly80. We’re talking precise measurements, tooling, and fitting.

To be honest, it sounds like you’re in deep over your head. Don’t take it personal, most people just don’t understand what goes in to building a gun with tight tolerances.

You’re better off buying a host gun, such as a Springfield Mil-spec (on roster). Find a gunsmith that can fulfill your needs, buy ALL of the parts you wish to have changed, and leave that to them. You’ll come out with a beautiful gun in the end. If using quality parts, be prepared to have invested 3-4K minimum. Most people would say you’re crazy just buy a Wilson, Baer, or Nighthawk. But they really aren’t the same as a full house custom. Baer may come close, but no 9mm on roster.

If you want a double stack 1911/2011, pay the off roster premium for STI or even the Wilson EDC9 line. Building one properly will cost close to the same price as full house custom. Granted you can get a little more going custom, but you’ll also not have to wait 1-2 years for build completion.

[ar15barrels]

Well, you can build it single-shot.
So if I don't mind building a rattling 1911 or 2011, it could be done, or nearly all of the parts that they sell for completing an 80% will require fitting every single piece?

Just stay within these lines:

So your single shot pistol that you manufacture has to be of the bolt action or break top variety and be over 10.5" overall length with a barrel over 6" long.
That means you can't use a slide and just stick a barrel over 6" in it and put a zero-round magazine in the frame and try to call it a single shot because THAT no longer meets the state definition when the frame could also be used to make a semi-auto.

[9mmContagion]

Just stay within these lines:



So your single shot pistol that you manufacture has to be of the bolt action or break top variety and be over 10.5" overall length with a barrel over 6" long.
That means you can't use a slide and just stick a barrel over 6" in it and put a zero-round magazine in the frame and try to call it a single shot because THAT no longer meets the state definition when the frame could also be used to make a semi-auto.

All the more reason to start with a host Mil Spec.

[ar15barrels]

All the more reason to start with a host Mil Spec.

We have finally reached the point where it's worth buying a factory loose fitted double stack 1911 in CA just to harvest the frame and have the rails micro welded so they are oversized and a new slide can be hard fitted and then a whole new gun built around that short block.

[9mmContagion]

We have finally reached the point where it's worth buying a factory loose fitted double stack 1911 in CA just to harvest the frame and have the rails micro welded so they are oversized and a new slide can be hard fitted and then a whole new gun built around that short block.