Remove HK MK23 thread protector

[razmataz]

Hi All,

Found a good deal on a used HK MK23 but it has a thread protector "permanently" attached to the original barrel. I'm assuming it's silver soldered on which makes it impossible to separate the barrel from the slide.

My plan is to get a second unthreaded barrel to use for shooting and keeping the original barrel for resale value purposes.

I'm seeing if the thread protector can be removed with minimal damage to the original barrel/threads?

I've read about high heat (MAPP) to melt the solder and vise grip to remove the cap but seeing if this is an easy diy or best to take to a gunsmith? Bonus points if anyone can recommend a gunsmith with experience or ball park how much I should pay for this service?

Thanks in advance

[ar15barrels]

It depends on how the thread protector was actually perm attached.

[razmataz]

Honestly, I don't know how the thread protector is attached.

There's no signs of a pin/weld and based on my research, most common way to perm attach the cap to be CA compliant was silver solder.

Is there any way to verify it is silver soldered or other method of perm attached?

Thanks

[Eatmyshade]

Pictures would help

[ar15barrels]

Honestly, I don't know how the thread protector is attached.
There's no signs of a pin/weld
Is there any way to verify it is silver soldered or other method of perm attached?

Silver solder would be readily apparent and the barrel's heat treat would be damaged from all the heat it took to get it over 1200 degrees for hard solder to flow.

Easiest way to check it to heat it up to 400 degrees first and see if it unthreads.
That will be the threshold for most grades of loctite.
Next would be 600 degrees which covers most soft solders.
If it won't come off at 600, I would recommend machining it off to not further damage the barrel by heating it to 1200+ again.

[razmataz]

Pictures

Here are some pictures for reference:

[SkyHawk]

I don't see evidence of solder, that doesn't mean much though. I would heat it to ~400 and see if it was loctite. If so, consider yourself lucky!

[ar15barrels]

I don't see evidence of solder, that doesn't mean much though. I would heat it to ~400 and see if it was loctite.

And the easiest way to tell you are around 400 is to lightly wipe some cooking oil on the barrel before heating.
Then heat it up with a torch until it will smoke when you remove the torch.
It generally won't smoke when there is a flame present as the flame simply burns it off but when the flame is removed, the oil will smoke around 380-450 degrees, so it makes a good temperature indicator.

[razmataz]

Thank you all for the advice and explaining my options.

I ordered an unthreaded RCM barrel and waited to get it before attempting anything. I decided to take my chances and used a propane torch and infrared temperature gun. I slowly heated the cap to about 425 degrees and the cap easily came off with channel locks. I guess I got lucky as the original barrel and threads came out undamaged.

I appreciate all the help and comments everyone provided. Thank you.

[ar15barrels]

I slowly heated the cap to about 425 degrees and the cap easily came off with channel locks.
I guess I got lucky as the original barrel and threads came out undamaged.

Turns out that your barrel did NOT have a permanently attached thread protector by any legal definition there is for permanent attachment.
Maybe it had some loctite.

[SkyHawk]

Turns out that your barrel did NOT have a permanently attached thread protector by any legal definition there is for permanent attachment.
Maybe it had some loctite.

Yep. I guess it's better that he found out this way than the hard way

The good news is that pistol is worth more $$ now. Just never install that barrel within CA.

OP how did the Oring hold up to the heat? I guess we should have told you to slide that way down the barrel before busting out the torch.