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Hi folks,
Merry Christmas to all, or if you don't use those words, then Happy Holidays!
I am looking to reblue a Luger P08 from WW1. Before anyone gets too upset, the stock lug was horribly removed before I got it, as well as someone lightly etching "7.65" into the bluing on the side. The grip is a mismatched coloring and there is very light surface corrosion forming near the top of the grip, under the lanyard loop (which was also removed prior to my owning it). The pistol has been rebarreled, so it is shooter grade. I'm not wrecking a collectible.
The metal itself is in decent shape and I would not need too much metal work to get it ready.
I've reviewed some of the threads and suggestions here. First, it appears there aren't any places now in SoCal that do corrosion resistant bluing anymore (Hot salt Blue??). Next, I'm a bit loathe to just send the gun off somewhere; I'd rather drive it there if possible. I'd have to see.
The video I saw that seems to make the most sense was one using Mark Lee's Brown, heat, and Oxpho Blue. If this is a good way to go, then be great to chat with someone who has some experience.
--I heard the boiling the parts in distilled water with some apple cider vinegar will remove all of the original bluing everywhere. The AC Vinegar used because it is lightly acidic and will take the old bluing not removed by the sanding and metal work right off. Does this sound correct?
--Put the parts in the oven and when at the right temp (I guess according to the Lee's Brown??), begin the process of Brown then Oxpho blue?
--Lastly, the older Lugers had straw colored parts, which I'm told is simply heating the parts to a specific temp and letting them cool. Is this basically it?
Thanks for any suggestions. I know I'm not an expert and maybe chewing off a bit more than I'm familiar with, but I just want to make the gun look a little better than it does.
Shoots flawlessly by the way...20 yards with the ammo I load for it and round go through the same hole and not a rattle anywhere in the gun.
Mark
Merry Christmas to all, or if you don't use those words, then Happy Holidays!
I am looking to reblue a Luger P08 from WW1. Before anyone gets too upset, the stock lug was horribly removed before I got it, as well as someone lightly etching "7.65" into the bluing on the side. The grip is a mismatched coloring and there is very light surface corrosion forming near the top of the grip, under the lanyard loop (which was also removed prior to my owning it). The pistol has been rebarreled, so it is shooter grade. I'm not wrecking a collectible.
The metal itself is in decent shape and I would not need too much metal work to get it ready.
I've reviewed some of the threads and suggestions here. First, it appears there aren't any places now in SoCal that do corrosion resistant bluing anymore (Hot salt Blue??). Next, I'm a bit loathe to just send the gun off somewhere; I'd rather drive it there if possible. I'd have to see.
The video I saw that seems to make the most sense was one using Mark Lee's Brown, heat, and Oxpho Blue. If this is a good way to go, then be great to chat with someone who has some experience.
--I heard the boiling the parts in distilled water with some apple cider vinegar will remove all of the original bluing everywhere. The AC Vinegar used because it is lightly acidic and will take the old bluing not removed by the sanding and metal work right off. Does this sound correct?
--Put the parts in the oven and when at the right temp (I guess according to the Lee's Brown??), begin the process of Brown then Oxpho blue?
--Lastly, the older Lugers had straw colored parts, which I'm told is simply heating the parts to a specific temp and letting them cool. Is this basically it?
Thanks for any suggestions. I know I'm not an expert and maybe chewing off a bit more than I'm familiar with, but I just want to make the gun look a little better than it does.
Shoots flawlessly by the way...20 yards with the ammo I load for it and round go through the same hole and not a rattle anywhere in the gun.
Mark
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