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Turning H/S precision stock into a lefty.
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Marine Tex
It’s going to be ghetto… if I did it
I would also do the same as with cement work
I’d run a bunch of small screws into the stock and run a fine wire across the screw heads.
Build up marine Tex over that. The screws and wires will add strength
You can also use bondo. Same concept with screws into the old stock to hold the repair.Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper) -
Right on, I was considering scratching it up with a wire brush to help with adhesion but didn’t think about the screws with wire, thanks for the tip. I just need it to be functional for a couple months. I’ll rattle can it afterwards anyways.
Marine Tex
It’s going to be ghetto… if I did it
I would also do the same as with cement work
I’d run a bunch of small screws into the stock and run a fine wire across the screw heads.
Build up marine Tex over that. The screws and wires will add strength
You can also use bondo. Same concept with screws into the old stock to hold the repair.Comment
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The besides the bolt handle notch and ejection port, you might need to do some trigger pocket work.So I’m waiting on my MPA Ultralite but I wanna get this gun shooting and get a load developed. It’s a bighorn tl3 that i put a proof tapered pre fit on. I’ve got a RH take off for a Remington 700 LTR. The recoil lug fits, it sits in the stock fine, i just need to cut a Left hand bolt cutout and relieve a bit for the ejection port. Shouldn’t be an issue going slow with a dremel... my question to you guys is what would you fill in the other side with? I was thinking of some form of body filler with epoxy over it, or just epoxy resin?
If you’re wondering why... we’ll I’ve got the stock, I don’t fill like spending money, I’ve got the time.
It's easy going as the stock is foam filled inside of the very thin fiberglass shell.
Keep in mind that the strength of the stock comes from the shell so when you cut the shell, you are weakening the stock.
It might be better to purposely over-cut the stock and then build up again with the epoxy of your choice then to simply cut into the foam and spray paint it.
That way, the epoxy will be replacing the fiberglass skin that you removed.
It will look better after you shape with epoxy and sand it all smooth before painting than it will if you are painting the raw cut foam core.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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The besides the bolt handle notch and ejection port, you might need to do some trigger pocket work.
It's easy going as the stock is foam filled inside of the very thin fiberglass shell.
Keep in mind that the strength of the stock comes from the shell so when you cut the shell, you are weakening the stock.
It might be better to purposely over-cut the stock and then build up again with the epoxy of your choice then to simply cut into the foam and spray paint it.
That way, the epoxy will be replacing the fiberglass skin that you removed.
It will look better after you shape with epoxy and sand it all smooth before painting than it will if you are painting the raw cut foam core.Comment
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