Hey new here when it comes to rifles primarily the AR-15 format. Stayed away from them primarily because of legislation webbing and confusion in terms of interchangeability between the lowers and uppers. Also gas systems... anyways, before I get off topic, I'm trying to buy an AR-15. I've gone through about 12 hours of videos on the subject, but still am having difficulty getting a clear answer on whether or not a stripped lower (the firearm itself) is different in any particular way among manufacturers. Is there higher quality lowers (stripped) do some perform better in a pistol or rifle format? Any answers would be greatly appreciated as well as keeping this discussion civil.
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AR 15 Lowers
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I'm not an expert but a receiver that states its mil spec should be the same. The more popular manufactures can get more $$$ because of their name brand.
On the milled receivers, you just need to look at the features that are offered. More features = more $$$
Dependently go with a company that's been around for awhile.sigpic -
Im pretty much on the same boat with you on the whole AR lower thing. Im commenting to easily find this conversation on here and also to learn with you.
Here is my 2 cents but take it with a grain of salt since Im new to the AR platform like you.
My understanding is 7075-T6 material is the "better kind". Also after what seems like 2 weeks worth of youtube videos I believe the most bang for your buck as far as quality and ease of build is Aero Precison M4E1 stripped lower receiver. Ive been on the hunt for an Aero Precision and hope to get one soon and Im curious as well to hear everyone else's opinion.Comment
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7075 is a stronger Aluminum alloy than 6061 but it really isn't needed. The 6061 is plenty strong enough. If it was that critical, people wouldn't be selling and buying polymer lowers. I have several high end ARs, cheaper ARs, polymer ARs and few made from 80 percent and even a 0 percent forging. All perform the same and no issues with any of them so far.
Aero precision is a good start.
Sent from my SM-G781U using TapatalkComment
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You want a mil-spec 7075 forged lower. That is pretty much the standard, and they are inexpensive. $70-150.
If you're talking about an AR-15 lower exclusively, there are the standard lowers (most are) or a variation that adds some different design elements, or is lighter, or stronger, or made with different materials, or has a flared mag well....etc. etc.
For your first build just go with a forged mil-spec as I mentioned above. They are some of the strongest and lightest. I prefer to stay away from Anderson brand because the finish is terrible and I worry about their quality control. You are probably OK with Palmetto State Armory, and while I tend to trash them, their lowers seem to be OK and at a good price.
Here is a link to a PSA "stealth" receiver. This is a mil-spec lower and its called stealth because it doesn't have a big PSA logo on it. In these times, I wouldn't hesitate to use this receiver even though I'm generally a snob about quality and brands. I'm sure this receiver will serve you well.
If you are picky about brands or finish quality, you can spend a little more a get a better finish, or a more prestigious name, but it will make little difference with a mil-spec lower receiver. There are $300+ lowers, but there is functionally little difference unless you absolutely must have an ambidextrous bolt release or something like that. (Those are nice to haves, and expensive/hard to find).
JUST DON'T buy a 'blem' receiver unless you know what you are doing. The savings are generally not enough unless you know specifically what the blemish is.
The LPK,or lower parts kit, is probably more important than what lower receiver you pick. So try to buy a good one. You may not have a lot of choices, but I like the Geissele LPK and the ALG LPKs, because I know Geissele sources well. (ALG is Geissele.)
I just noticed that Palmetto State Armory (PSA) is carrying CMMG LPKs, They are not bad.
However, I would not buy a complete upper or barrel, or Bolt Carrier Group from PSA. Because I had a bad experience. Some people like them, but I wouldn't buy those critical parts from PSA.
Hope this helps a little, it would take me hours/days to explain everything, but this might get you started anyway.Last edited by ScottsBad; 05-23-2021, 11:09 PM.sigpicC'mon man, shouldn't we ban Democracks from Cal-Guns? Or at least send them to re-education camps.Comment
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I have at least eight guns built on Anderson lowers now and would not hesitate to buy more of their lowers when I finally burn through my stash, especially if I can get them under $60 or even $50 out the door.
The Spikes lowers I have are only marginally better finish wise but not worth 2x or 3x the price IMO.
Even if forged blanks come from the same place (like Cerro Forge) a lot can go wrong when finishing them. Dull magwell broaching tools, safety detent holes drilled through oversized, too much finish in the takedown/pivot pin detent holes, to name a few. So it is best to stick with vendors who have good reputations even after putting out serious volume. Luckily there are quite a few of them.
I stay away from milled receivers because they don't always play nice with other uppers or even aftermarket lower parts.Last edited by SkyHawk; 05-24-2021, 12:16 AM.Comment
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Ditto on Anderson, good enough and I don't need a gucci gun.
What I will say is you may end up spending more in the long run if you want to upgrade or get the most out of your AR (accuracy out to distance or smoothness). What some people say is true about buying all the parts on a high end that you want, vs just a budget build. Cause I started with a $600 MP15 and have changed almost everything out, except for the trigger which is what most people change out first.
$150 for a NiB spikes m16 bcg
$30 free float hand guard
$30 low pro adjustable gas block
$125 Romeo 5 red dot
$20 armorer's tool
$20 extended charging handle
$100 rear adjustable metal buis (knights)
$50 QD sling points endplate and mlok
$30 flat wire then low drag buffer spring
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And get this, most recently I decided to build a complete M4gery upper out of a colt 14.5 barrel just to have the look and feel. This means the A2 gas block that I took off the M&P went back on, with a normal charging handle and quad rail... I don't want to think about how much that upper cost.
I just built one for a friend for 750 without a scope but with a piston kit. Yes the gun was built from an Anderson lower for about 500 dollars.Comment
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What makes a pistol run good or bad is the gas system, buffer/bcg not the lower. You can't build a semi-pistol legally in CA now unless you PPT from a current pistol and then you have to maglock it and wait for Miller V Becerra to go our way.
In my opinion, a featureless system will always give you reliability at the cost of looks and pistol grip ease of use.Comment
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Even IF miller v basura goes our way, you STILL won't be able to build new AR pistols from newly manufactured stripped lower receivers because of the roster and the associated unsafe handgun laws that surround the roster.
Miller v basura is only about the assault weapon definitions and surrounding manufacturing/importing/possession restrictions.
So a successful Miller result will let magazine locks be removed from existing AR pistols but won't do anything for manufacturing/selling of new ones.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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You are correct, no brand new buys. I guess I thought most people were selling stripped pistol lowers and I was speaking to how even if you were to be able to build a pistol it's limited by its maglock, no featureless option and a "brace" instead of a stock, which soon might even be just a tube padding.Comment
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My poly lower has served me well for my 223 so far. What was your experience out of curiosity?
Sent from my SM-G781U using TapatalkComment
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