Help scope base 6-48 thread bolt

[armenjs802]

It was time for an upgrade to picatinny base mount, and the far left bolt turns but doesn't come back up. The other two are ok, I took them out. The new base has same thread 6-48. Savage 10FP 308. Any ideas what I should do. Thanks for your advice.

Armen.

[ar15barrels]

Just so I understand correctly:
The bolt TURNS, but does not unscrew?

Remove all the other screws, start turning the bolt and pull upwards on the scope base.
If the screw head is broken off, it won't be holding the base down and the base should just lift off.
If the screw is NOT turning, then either try harder or bring it to me and I can drill out the head and then remove the screw.

[armenjs802]

Just so I understand correctly:
The bolt TURNS, but does not unscrew?

Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!

[baih777]

Get the screw out first.
Screw is usually softer than the receiver.
Might have to run a tap into the hole. If you get lucky. It will save the threads.
If not. Make appt with Randall.

[ar15barrels]

Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!

If the screw spins in place in the reciever, it's probably because the threads were stripped out of the reciever and the screw is just held in there by the loctite.
Or the screw head actually broke off the screw and the loctite is holding the screw head into the scope base.

[G-forceJunkie]

Time to upgrade to 8-40 screws...

[Hateca]

And stop using red loc-tite. It’s a scope base screw blue is all you need. You’re not trying to secure head bolts on your V8.

[pacrat]

Thanks for reply, Yes Just turns, and no the screw head not broken. The mount most likely will get trashed. I may able wedge screw driver or small crowbar underneath the Leopold dovetail mount as leverage to push up. Then question becomes the threads on the receiver!

There is absofreak'nlutely no reason to trash the base. DO NOT wedge a screwdriver or minibar between the base and receiver. It's just a little 6-48 screw. It won't take a lot of upward force as the screw turns. A properly adjusted pair of vice grips and a piece of leather as padding, will more than suffice. And a firm hand grip while turning screw will likely work.

"Hateca" has a valid point regarding the RED LocTite.

But don't use the BLUE. WHICH IS MADE TO BE REMOVABLE WITH LARGER SCREWS AND BOLTS. Go with the PURPLE, which is engineered to be removable on SMALL SCREWS.

https://www.rshughes.com/p/Loctite-222MS-Threadlocker-Purple-Liquid-0-5-Ml-Capsule-22205-IDH-231483/079340_22205/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvYSEBhDjARIsAJMn0lilat4x74Uhoxegvl3P4lkBhwpyIgf61L_2scHwAT7J6tXxD1pXAKQaAvz-EALw_wcB

[yoteassasin]

8-40's for the win

[armenjs802]

Luckily I was able to take the bolt out of the base in one piece. Most likely bottom threats are damaged. I was tired and left it alone until I can find maybe a correct tap size to clean the threads. I remembered this job was done 18 years ago Gunworks in Glendale, Phil and reason was I messed up over torqueing the bolt ~40inlb and may have striped along the way. I don't know , Apparently was good for all the years, You think with three bolts hold is good enuf and loctite the other one in place??

I have other concerns about the rings I got from Leopold for PA scope 6 30 56 34mm tube But this can wait. Let me get the mount finished.
Leopold told me to get extra high rings!

[ar15barrels]

But don't use the BLUE. WHICH IS MADE TO BE REMOVABLE WITH LARGER SCREWS AND BOLTS.
Go with the PURPLE, which is engineered to be removable on SMALL SCREWS.

There are different viscosity levels made of each strength level (grade/color).

You can get red or blue grades for several different ranges of screw sizes.
The only difference among the grades of a specific type is how thick it is.
I specifically buy the thicker grades because they stay put better than the thinner grades.
The thin grades will not fill in the gaps between threads on larger bolts but the thick grades will flow into the smaller gaps in smaller threads just fine.
The time a very thin grade is helpful is if you are using the wicking type that you put on the threads after the fastener is already installed and it runs down around the threads after the fact.

Purple is not actually a threadlocker.
Purple is intended to hold a screw ADJUSTMENT.
Like when you have a threaded knob that you want to be able to set to a position but you don't want it to move on it's own from vibration.
That's where you use purple.

Blue is medium strength (tool removable) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.
Red is high strength (heat and tool required to remove) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.

[ar15barrels]

Luckily I was able to take the bolt out of the base in one piece. Most likely bottom threats are damaged. I was tired and left it alone until I can find maybe a correct tap size to clean the threads. I remembered this job was done 18 years ago Gunworks in Glendale, Phil and reason was I messed up over torqueing the bolt ~40inlb and may have striped along the way. I don't know , Apparently was good for all the years, You think with three bolts hold is good enuf and loctite the other one in place??

That barrel should be removed and then the hole chased with a tap.
It looks like the screw stripped out which means there are some of the stripped threads sitting in the bottom threads of the reciever.

There also looks to be damage to the barrel threads because the screw was too long and actually bottomed out on the barrel threads.
The best fix is to take it apart and repair all the threads and then put it back together with the correct length screw which will NOT bottom out on the barrel.

[hermosabeach]

OP

A quick thank you for posting up all the pics and what happened... I learn something new all the time from threads like this.....

Randall- I was wondering why the tip of the screw was smaller. Your explanation makes sense

[pacrat]

Purple is not actually a threadlocker.
Purple is intended to hold a screw ADJUSTMENT.
Like when you have a threaded knob that you want to be able to set to a position but you don't want it to move on it's own from vibration.
That's where you use purple.

Blue is medium strength (tool removable) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.
Red is high strength (heat and tool required to remove) threadlocker intended to keep a fastener from loosening.

Holding screw adjustment is just one listed use. And BTW Henkel calls it a threadlocker.

https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/MRO_TL_Guide

UP TO 1/4" all caps is my notation.


Low Strength
Recommended for low
strength threadlocking
of adjustment screws,
countersunk head screws and
set screws; on collars, pulleys,
tool holders and controllers.
Also for low-strength metals,
such as aluminum or brass.

Whereas BLUE serves the same purposes for bolts from 1/4" to 3/4".

Both products are clearly labeled on packaging for the intended diameters they are engineered for.

[kendog4570]

Clean the hole up with a properly ground bottoming tap and replace screw. Trim new screw to proper length. If the hole is trashed (it doesn't look it from the picture) run it oversize to .146-48 and fit an oversize screw.
Clean, lightly oiled threads in this application do not need locking goo.