Glossy Lacquer to Matte, or remove?

[StandardFinn]

Is there any way to scuff or de-gloss a high gloss lacquer finish on a 15+ yr old stock/fore arm?

And if there isn't a relatively simple (sanding with high grit, 1000+, or something) do I need to completely strip the lacquer and refinish with my desired matte look?

[ar15barrels]

You can lacquer over lacquer.
The new lacquer bonds to the old lacquer.
Mix up the new lacquer with something to make it more matte.

[Reecek]

ScotchBrite?

['ol shooter]

Even the finest Scotchbrite pad is too coarse and will leave visible scratches.
I use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pads, a super fine abrasive impregnated foam pad that will render it to a soft satin. This Mauser was glossy Tru-Oil before a light rubdown with the pad.

[StandardFinn]

You can lacquer over lacquer.
The new lacquer bonds to the old lacquer.
Mix up the new lacquer with something to make it more matte.

Interesting thought....there's a few nicks in the finish, wondering if that matters. Thanks for the suggestion.

Even the finest Scotchbrite pad is too coarse and will leave visible scratches.
I use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser pads, a super fine abrasive impregnated foam pad that will render it to a soft satin. This Mauser was glossy Tru-Oil before a light rubdown with the pad.

This isn't an oil finish though, so I'm not quite sure if the principles would be the same - those magic eraser pads have cleaning agents in them that likely ate up some of the oil left on the surface of your mauser. Beautiful gun though! I love the dark stock.

My shotgun has a hard lacquer high gloss finish on it meant to protect it from the elements, which an oil finish doesn't do. I don't need the water protection since it's just a sporting gun for me, it's a field model so it came like that from a while ago.

Anyhow, I'll have to look into it more - Thanks for the input gentlemen.

['ol shooter]

Tru-Oil has little actual oil, mostly synthetic, and abrasive is abrasive. Tru-Oil is a hard finish when it cures. It will work the same on any shiny finish. This is what's in Tru-Oil:
tru oil composition.JPG

[ar15barrels]

Tru-Oil has little actual oil, mostly synthetic, and abrasive is abrasive. Tru-Oil is a hard finish when it cures. It will work the same on any shiny finish. This is what's in Tru-Oil:
[ATTACH]997549[/ATTACH]

And for anyone not aware, stoddard solvent is also known as mineral spirits.

['ol shooter]

Exactly, it's the carrier and flashes off, that's how it dries. I usually dilute Tru-Oil about 20% with real Mineral Spirits for better flow.

[sonofeugene]

Try sand blasting it. But hold the nozzle far away from the stock and turn the pressure down.

[StandardFinn]

Hmm, well isn't Tru Oil still an Oil finish once the mineral spirits flash off? It hardens like a linseed or Tung oil finish over time with multiple applications and curing. I am not super familiar with wood finishings so this is all useful information. But that's my curiosity with the magic eraser pads, I am not sure they'd have the same effect on a lacquer finish vs. an oil based finish.

I don't have a sand blaster eugene, but that is an interesting thought, might be too abrasive.

I did read somewhere that using paste wax and a 0000 steel wool might work also...or would even that be too abrasive? Or wet sanding with like 1200 or 2000 grit paper?