3d printing

[blueovalj]

Ive been wanting to look into 3d printing my own components. Anyone have any suggestions on a printer and filament? Wanting it to be strong enough to handle use on a firearm. Ive seen theres some carbon fiber mixed filaments.

[Gromann]

What sort of budget are you willing to lay out? AFAIK 3d printed receivers are a no-no in California but everything else is fine.

I 3d print quite a bit in FDM for work and personal stuff.

If you aren't comfortable with definitively toxic fumes and want something you can print on most printers - PETG is the best starting point.

Stiffer than regular Nylon but not as strong. You CAN find CF PETG but it can wear out most standard nozzles.

Generally, anything you see with CF added is going to burn out a lot of your regular hot-ends if you aren't careful.

If you're willing to shell out $600+ on a printer, then you can start getting some that will do Nylon and ABS reliably but maybe not Polycarbonate.

Generally, if it's not a structural part, PLA+ is fine. If it's something that may get strain, Nylon. If you have the budget, then you can look at GF Nylon and PC.

[blueovalj]

Wow thank you for the info. I was definitely not thinking about making receivers. You need to have an ffl for that....although the thought is intriguing. My budget for a printer would be in the 600 dollar range, if that included filament and everything needed to get printing.

[Gromann]

In your case I'd probably look at something like a Creality Ender 5 Pro. Get it set up and running reliably then once you have grown comfortable with slicers (Prusa Slicer & Cura being the two most reliable and common slicers) you can look at upgrading the machine to do the higher temp materials.

Generally, what you'll see in printers around the $500 and under mark is a PTFE lined hot-end which limits your real world printing temp to 245c/473f. This means you are only able to print PLA & most PETG, some soft materials, but no Nylon, PC, or exotics.

Then, if you'd like to do fiber, glow in the dark (the additive is usually abrasive), "wood" filaments then you'll need to upgrade your nozzle from brass to hardened steel or chrome plated.

I have two Creality machines for personal use, and while they are cheap-ish and Chinese (in reality, 90% of the 3d printer market is in China), they are generally easy enough to work on and upgrade as needed.

However, if you're able to go the extra $150 - you'd be able to grab a Prusa i3 MK3S which, in all honesty, is one of the best printers on the market irrespective of its price. While, out of the box it cannot do abrasive materials - it can do regular Nylon and PC to some degree.

From there with either printer you'd want some quality metric tools - I personally use hex drivers for RC cars which tend to be better than most hex keys you can find in a typical hardware store. MIP and Dynamite make solid options.

Most of the other things you'd need you likely already have (pliers, metric sockets for nozzle changes, side cutters/nail clippers, etc..) so I'd just pick up some decent PLA+ filament and learn the software.

Between Prusa Slicer and Cura - there's not anything that makes one better than the other, Prusa, from what I understand, is a little easier to learn but lacks some of the more unique features Cura offers. In reality, you can usually just pick one, learn it, and be fine.

[itisagoodname]

I'm doing carbon PC with a hardened steel nozzle on my Prusa Mini, without enclosure. I wanted carbon petg but got PC by mistake. Bed adhesion good, no lifting, no layer gaps at up to 50% fill so far.

I've had an ender and ender clone, both had issues and I left them at work. Got the mini for home use, id get the Prusa i3 MK3 for the bigger volume but wouldn't give up the mini.

What sort of budget are you willing to lay out? AFAIK 3d printed receivers are a no-no in California but everything else is fine.

I 3d print quite a bit in FDM for work and personal stuff.

If you aren't comfortable with definitively toxic fumes and want something you can print on most printers - PETG is the best starting point.

Stiffer than regular Nylon but not as strong. You CAN find CF PETG but it can wear out most standard nozzles.

Generally, anything you see with CF added is going to burn out a lot of your regular hot-ends if you aren't careful.

If you're willing to shell out $600+ on a printer, then you can start getting some that will do Nylon and ABS reliably but maybe not Polycarbonate.

Generally, if it's not a structural part, PLA+ is fine. If it's something that may get strain, Nylon. If you have the budget, then you can look at GF Nylon and PC.

[Gromann]

I'm doing carbon PC with a hardened steel nozzle on my Prusa Mini, without enclosure. I wanted carbon petg but got PC by mistake. Bed adhesion good, no lifting, no layer gaps at up to 50% fill so far.

I've had an ender and ender clone, both had issues and I left them at work. Got the mini for home use, id get the Prusa i3 MK3 for the bigger volume but wouldn't give up the mini.

The mini has a PTFE liner doesn't it? Did you swap that out before doing PC?

I havent been brave enough to crank my franken10 (CR10 that's had every functioning part replaced/upgraded) to PC temps but it should be able to.

What brand PC is it?