1911-A1 Barrel fitting

[roc]

Just got a used EFK 1911 extended/ported 6 inch barrel from another calgunner. it doesnt fit quite right on my SA 1911 GI. it snags on something on the way in and once it goes on, the slide racks back about an inch or 2 before it snags up again. I havent fitted a 191 barrel before. Does anyone have any pointers on how to figure out what part of the barrel is getting hung up?

This is what the barrel looks like:

[Mikeb]

Might need a bit more info. The picture looks like it might be a bull barrel. If it is not the problem could be with the bushing. Barrels are sometimes cut back of the bushing. Sometimes the bushings a reamed to allow the barrel to drop on the link. covering the barrel with majic marker or dykem will probably indicate where the rub is.
take care
Mike

[roc]

its not a bull barrel. at least it doesnt look like it. i also have the bushing that came with the barrel which has the same problem. I will try to snap some pics tonight to see if that helps. i've try using a marker but it seems to rub off during reassembly...

[tankerman]

1911 parts need to be fitted, including most of the so called "drop in" parts.

[roc]

1911 parts need to be fitted, including most of the so called "drop in" parts.

I realize most 1911 parts need to be fitted. since this is the gunsmithing section (AKA dyi gunsmithing), what i am trying to get some feedback on is the techniques used in fitting a barrel on a 1911.

[battlehatch]

I am no gunsmith but I do know that there is a lot to fitting a 1911 barrel. There's the bushing and also the locking lugs. There is a certain amount of fitting on the lugs that needs to be done to ensure proper timing.

[roc]

found this page via google

http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project/the_kart_of_barrel_fitting.html

gonna give it read and see if it helps. looks like lipstick might be a good material to mark the friction points. good thing i am married. would be embarrassing to have to go buy some.

[bohoki]

if you want barrel swaping you should not touch your original bushing

i think my barrel is poorly fitted if fires way low at 50 yards

so if you remove any material make sure it is from the top of the barrel

like mark and see where excessive rub is and do your best to take off even amounts with say 220 wet dry top and bottom

i am a lousy gunsmith but my stuff often works out for me

put a bore brush on a segment of rod push it half way through chuck the cleaning rod in a drill spin the barrel and hold the sandpaper on the barrel

do a little check the fit a little more if it still binds

[freonr22]

http://www.m1911.org/barrelfit.htm

http://forum.m1911.org/

http://forums.1911forum.com/

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72556&pid=929196&st=0&#entry929196

[roc]

i figured out where the hang up is. its the lockup bar at the top and towards the chamber end of the barrel hanging on the top rear of the ejection port.



I took off some of the metal on the barrel and it now fits fine.

the problem now is the barrel link where the slide stop fits thru is too big and it makes the slide sit just a couple of millimeters forward

(That opening is too big and the slide stop bar has a lot of play in it.)


With the original barrel (smaller slide stop opening on barrel link)


with the efk barrel (larger slide stop opening on barrel link)


Do you guys know what the proper size of the barrel stop opening needs to be if i need to order a new barrel link for the EFK barrel? I am seeing that it varies everywhere from 0.268" to 0.288" on midway's website.

My pistol is the SA 1911A1 GI. I suppose I could use micrometer to measure it but i don't have access to one. Appreciate the help. Thanks...

[crob241]

1911 info

If you don`t have any good 1911 boks go to this web site www.cncguns.com then downloads and there is several free blueprints of frames, slides and parts as well as ar and other models. They are not as clear as they could be but better then nothing. I will look in my books and get the info u want. Make sure the frame and slide are .45, slides are caliber specific, the .45 is larger in the brl hood area then 9mm or 38spr.and the slide stop is smaller on 38 and 9mm, if you started with a 38super or 9mm slide or gun and are trying to fit a .45 brl. STOP, it will not work, u need a new slide. I have slides as well as any other part u need.

[tankerman]

I believe Brownells sells link kits, that have a variety of sizes.

[roc]

If you don`t have any good 1911 boks go to this web site www.cncguns.com then downloads and there is several free blueprints of frames, slides and parts as well as ar and other models. They are not as clear as they could be but better then nothing. I will look in my books and get the info u want. Make sure the frame and slide are .45, slides are caliber specific, the .45 is larger in the brl hood area then 9mm or 38spr.and the slide stop is smaller on 38 and 9mm, if you started with a 38super or 9mm slide or gun and are trying to fit a .45 brl. STOP, it will not work, u need a new slide. I have slides as well as any other part u need.

cncgunsmithing has some cool stuff. love the photos of milling the receiver. it doesnt have much in terms of parts though. if you could check in your book on the specs of a 1911A1 GI barrel link diameter I would appreciate it.

I believe Brownells sells link kits, that have a variety of sizes.

I know there are a variety of sizes and that is why i need to know which one i need to get for my model.

[crob241]

brl link

link pin=.1555 dia., lngth=.358+-.008,
linkstndrd=.278+-.001,,,nm+.291+-.001,slide stop dia.+std. .2045, nm+.230
link thickness=.136+-.003
There are other dimensions for brl, lugs, bushing etc To fit a brl and slide correctly takes many hours if not days and that is if you have an assortment of parts to pick and choose from. hope this helps

[roc]

link pin=.1555 dia., lngth=.358+-.008,
linkstndrd=.278+-.001,,,nm+.291+-.001,slide stop dia.+std. .2045, nm+.230
link thickness=.136+-.003
There are other dimensions for brl, lugs, bushing etc To fit a brl and slide correctly takes many hours if not days and that is if you have an assortment of parts to pick and choose from. hope this helps

thanks for the info. i am having a tough time getting the barrel link retention pin to come out of the efk barrel. the stock one pop out with not much problems using a punch. i am guess the match barrel is of tighter tolerance and might need a press for the job?

btw, cncguns.com is very humbling for any amateur gunsmith wannabe like myself.