Butt pad fitting

[bug_eyedmonster]

Hi All,

Is there a North San Jose/Milpitas gunsmith that can fit a custom butt pad to a youth 870 in .410? I have not been able to find one close by, they all seem to be somewhat far and I don't have the time to drive out. Thanks in advance to all for help.

Jerry

[Pofoo]

Do you have a belt sander or a disc sander?
You could do it in less time then taking it someplace and then returning to pick it up.

[NoHeavyHitter]

Yep, I did a "grind-to-fit" Limbsaver using a belt sander after tracing the outline of the mounted pad. It is one of the easiest and most satisfying tasks for anyone who enjoys gunsmithing chores. Even someone who is only moderately handy with tools can manage a decent job.

[bug_eyedmonster]

Do you have a belt sander or a disc sander?
You could do it in less time then taking it someplace and then returning to pick it up.

Hi Gents,

No, unfortuantely, I do not have a belt or disc sander. The closest thing I have is a Dremel and hacksaw.

Jerry

[divingin]

Bugeye: Where are you located? If you're in or near Oakland, I can loan out my belt sander. Otherwise, check Home Depot and Lowes for rentals.

[Kokopelli]

Yep, I did a "grind-to-fit" Limbsaver using a belt sander after tracing the outline of the mounted pad. It is one of the easiest and most satisfying tasks for anyone who enjoys gunsmithing chores. Even someone who is only moderately handy with tools can manage a decent job.

[BOBGBA]

Google "grind to fit recoil pads", to get some video tutorials...

[ar15barrels]

That’s genius! Thank you!
I didn’t think of using an old pad for a pattern to sand down a new one.

You don't use the old pad.
You remove the old pad.
Then install the new pad.
It should be overlapping the stock all the way around.
You scribe a line around the stock on the face of the pad that rests against the stock.
Then you remove the pad from the stock and you grind to the scribed line, being careful to keep the contour parallel to the stock's contour.

[Pofoo]

being careful to keep the contour parallel to the stock's contour.

This. The plastic base and the "rubber" have different spring back properties. You may have to cant the pad while sanding in order to get the "rubber" to align right with the plastic and the stock, from my limited experience.

[Kokopelli]

You don't use the old pad.
You remove the old pad.
Then install the new pad.
It should be overlapping the stock all the way around.
You scribe a line around the stock on the face of the pad that rests against the stock.
Then you remove the pad from the stock and you grind to the scribed line, being careful to keep the contour parallel to the stock's contour.

Thank you sir.

[ar15barrels]

Thank you sir.

My instructions are QUITE simplified.
Such as "remove engine and re-install new engine in vehicle".
There are many little details that will come from experience such as stated here:

The plastic base and the "rubber" have different spring back properties.
You may have to cant the pad while sanding in order to get the "rubber" to align right with the plastic and the stock

I use a brownells pad grinding fixture that hangs on my disc sander to keep the angles correct.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/recoil-pad-tools/b-r-recoil-pad-fitting-jig-prod44670.aspx

[NoHeavyHitter]

You don't use the old pad.
You remove the old pad.
Then install the new pad.
It should be overlapping the stock all the way around.
You scribe a line around the stock on the face of the pad that rests against the stock.
Then you remove the pad from the stock and you grind to the scribed line, being careful to keep the contour parallel to the stock's contour.

This is what I did. I neglected to mention that the "mounted pad" was the grind-to-fit pad. I used a piece of wide masking tape to cover the mounting surface of the pad where it meets the stock. Once mounted, I traced a line on the tape following the outline of the stock. Then I removed the pad and used a belt sander to match it to the line I traced.

Sometimes it's necessary to drill out the original pad's screw holes and fill them with a dowel - if the new hole is too close to the old one..

That said, more often than not - I've had to shorten the stock to avoid having the new pad add to the LOP. To accomplish this additional work, I shorten the stock the required amount, then mount the pad using the original screw hole at the top of the pad. Then I re-drill the lower hole to match the new pad and proceed as I've described above.

[bug_eyedmonster]

Bugeye: Where are you located? If you're in or near Oakland, I can loan out my belt sander. Otherwise, check Home Depot and Lowes for rentals.

Thank you for the offer, but I think this might be beyond my level of patience.

My instructions are QUITE simplified.
Such as "remove engine and re-install new engine in vehicle".
There are many little details that will come from experience such as stated here:



I use a brownells pad grinding fixture that hangs on my disc sander to keep the angles correct.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod44670.aspx

Yeah, this is what I figured. I think the simplest thing to do would be to ship my stock to Limbsaver or Kick-Eez and have them fit it for me. It seems like a much better option compared to buying tools and spending the time to get this right.

[stevec223]