Bedding action Help ****update post #22 ****

[kendog4570]

Devcon Steel Putty. Good Stuff.
A little side note. Wax doesn't "build up". It is an evaporative finish, similar to shellac. The second coat dissolves the first, even if it is 10 years between coats. Just slather it on, let it "dry" (let the solvent/carrier evaporate) and buff it.

[baih777]

yesterday I spent a lot of time prepping my stock for my next attempt .
I tried car wax and carnauba wax. the problem is it started taking off the Durachrome when I tried to polish it.
so I did a test last night.
I masked the whole receiver with blue painters tape. its less than .001 thick when pulled tight. I put a thin coat of shoe polish and it stuck good to the tape.
I will put on a second thin coat later.
still gonna pickup some of that Johnsons floor wax .

my thinking was to have the rifle painted first since Durachrome is a two coat process. may be next time I know I am going to have a rifle painted, I will use the tape and bed the action first, then have the rifle painted.

or maybe this Durachrome is just not as durable as claimed.

[smoothy8500]

Wax doesn't "build up". It is an evaporative finish, similar to shellac. The second coat dissolves the first. Just slather it on, let it "dry" and buff it.

Good to know, thanks.

[kcstott]

i like marinetex only because I can buy any size i want on a Saturday at the marine supply. from a small tube to a gallon can and anything in between.
I also use paste wax and never had and issue and it cleans up far easier than the Brownell's blue release agent

[pacrat]

OP, like Kendog and others. I've used Johnson's Paste Wax exclusively since the early 70s. Never had one stick after doing north of a couple dozen. Used many different bedding mediums. Micro Bed, Marinetex, Devcon, Herters, Acra-Glas both resin and gel, etc, etc.

All were either stainless or blued steel.

I honestly believe you are experiencing a conflict between the solvents in the release, and the paint. Allowing the medium to migrate through the release.

Even Johnson's has a small amount of solvent in it. But far less than the auto type wax or shoe polish that have a lot of "drying agents".

Time to share a tip for all doing epoxy bedding of actions.

Throw away the Play Dough and modeling clay everybody. What a pain in the WaZoo first fill everything, then to dig out after the fact.

Get a roll of the FOIL DUCT SEAL tape. Trim to fit proud of mag well, trigger group slot, 1/4" squares over screw holes. Peel the backer and apply. Cuts with scissors. Peels off with fingernail when done. Apply release right over the tape.

Eazy Peazy

You're Welcome.

[Ramsh00ter]

I used Pam for years for my release agent, then they went and changed the formula....... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Had one stick, tried heat to the top of the action with a clothing iron, didn't work.

Tried freezing it, thought I was going to break the stock getting it out.

After that point I made a horse shoe shaped piece of Alum with a "J" hook and nut. Hooks into the front of the receiver, Alum rests on the sides of the stock. Tighten the nut a half to 3/4 turn, out it pops.

Have never damaged a stock.

Johnson paste wax is as good as it gets.

[baih777]

update
thank you kendog for the iron tip.
I removed the action from my second attempt.
I left the iron on for 30 minutes. I grabbed the action to get ready to pull it out and it just came loose.
I think I used too much shoepolish. not as smooth as other peoples pics.
have to give mine a " C " grade.

lesson learned.
I need to spend more time and patience prepping.
ordered some more dremel bits.
picked up some Johnsons paste wax.
and I timed the Devcon. I have at least 15 minutes before it becomes too hard to use. I panicked and thought I had to apply it immediately. its nothing like JB weld.

Thank you all for all your suggestions.

[smoothy8500]

It's all good. Chalk it up as a practice run.

[ar15barrels]

my thinking was to have the rifle painted first since Durachrome is a two coat process.
may be next time I know I am going to have a rifle painted, I will use the tape and bed the action first, then have the rifle painted.

Always paint before bedding.
The paint needs to be there to for the bedding to be the proper dimension.
If you can't figure out a release, change to a different paint to solve the problem.
Do NOT do a bedding job with tape between the reciever and bedding.
You can/should tape the sides/front/bottom of the recoil lug.

[kevins750]

OP, like Kendog and others. I've used Johnson's Paste Wax exclusively since the early 70s. Never had one stick after doing north of a couple dozen. Used many different bedding mediums. Micro Bed, Marinetex, Devcon, Herters, Acra-Glas both resin and gel, etc, etc.

All were either stainless or blued steel.

I honestly believe you are experiencing a conflict between the solvents in the release, and the paint. Allowing the medium to migrate through the release.

Even Johnson's has a small amount of solvent in it. But far less than the auto type wax or shoe polish that have a lot of "drying agents".

Time to share a tip for all doing epoxy bedding of actions.

Throw away the Play Dough and modeling clay everybody. What a pain in the WaZoo first fill everything, then to dig out after the fact.

Get a roll of the FOIL DUCT SEAL tape. Trim to fit proud of mag well, trigger group slot, 1/4" squares over screw holes. Peel the backer and apply. Cuts with scissors. Peels off with fingernail when done. Apply release right over the tape.

Eazy Peazy

You're Welcome.

Can you explain how you cover the openings in the receiver a little more.

[pacrat]

Can you explain how you cover the openings in the receiver a little more.

Sure, the product I'm talking about is this stuff. It comes in smaller rolls.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shurtape-1-88-in-x-50-yds-Aluminum-Foil-Repair-Tape-241581/301296670

It is very thin, .003" and has a paper backer. Makes it very easy to trim to fit, using scissors. And it stays right where you stick it. After you peel the backer.

I cut it approx 1/8 to 3/16" proud of any opening I want to keep epoxy out of. Such as those mentioned above. I rough cut it proud by a bunch and lay it over an opening, mag well for example. Then rub it with a hard smooth screwdriver or knife handle. That leaves a perfect imprint of opening. Then just trim to size. And small squares about 1/4 inch over screw holes like those that hold trigger group, magazine guides, etc.

As Randall mentioned, I also tape the frnt, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. I also use masking tape flat along barrel and receiver channel on the stock. Leaving it overhang the bedding area. Even the bolt recess cut. Then carefully trim it flush to stock using an ex-acto knife.

Then I use two coats of Johnson's Paste Wax on the receiver and right over the foil taped openings. Don't forget to use the action screws to work wax into the screw holes in receiver. As well as coating the screws themselves.

I've found it simplifies clean up a bunch, to have several tongue depressors and ice cream sticks. With the ends sanded into the shape of a chisel handy. After the action is clamped into the stock. I use them to carefully scrape the excess that squeezed out around perimeter of action. And if you have a removable floor plate on bottom metal. You can get most of goop that oozed into mag well of stock.

Then peel the masking tape off the stock while bedding is still semi soft and workable.

After bedding sets and you remove action from stock. You still need to trim bedding that oozed into mag well, trigger recess of stock, etc. Any little smears left on the receiver you can just flick off with a fingernail as you clean/lube for reassembly.

Looking down into stock from top when done. You will see a very faint line around the mag well and trigger recess. Where the foil tape edge was.

[smoothy8500]

I like the foil tape idea to cover the mag well and trigger openings. Thanks.

[pacrat]

I like the foil tape idea to cover the mag well and trigger openings. Thanks.

You're more than welcome. I enjoy sharing what experience, tips, shortcuts, and sundry DIY with other interested shooters.

I have also learned quite a bit since joining CG. It's all on the wheel. I've shared my foil tape bedding tip on multiple Gun forums over the years. Several working gunsmiths across the country now use it to their advantage.

I always hated the Play-Doh or modeling clay filled voids, holes, and recesses. A real hemorrhoidal PIA to clean up afterwards. Picking that crap out of all the holes.