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Greetings gents,
I have a very used early to mid 60's Smith Model 28-2 with a 6 inch barrel and a very light single action trigger that shoots .38 specials very, very accurately to point of aim, although with .357 magnums it is all over the place (definitely my fault). Regardless, given that its an old revolver with a good amount of cylinder endshake, I want to rehab this the best I can and thus my question above in the subject line:
I found a good deal recently on a "#3 crane alignment tool for Ruger" but I am wondering if it will also work for checking the yoke alignment on a Smith K, L, N frame revolver. Anyone know about this either way?
I tried the Ruger tool already in the Model 28-2 and it actually seems to fit in the yoke barrel with no apparent play and seems to confirm proper yoke alignment (drops nicely into the frame center pin hole in the back when the thumb latch is pressed). There is a little 'gritiness' as the alignment tool is inserted into the Smith yoke barrel, but perhaps that means the yoke barrel interior needs to be reamed (?) or just cleaned better. I also have a Model 19-2 in jail right now so I'll be going through this with at least one more Smith revolver soon.
The ruger crane tool measures as follows:
Diameter: just barely under 0.3105" (micrometer, harbor freight)
Length (end to end): 3.006"
Length (yoke barrel cylindrical alignment portion): 1.159"
Can anyone advise here or perhaps measure the diameter of the Smith tool to compare? The Smith N & K frame alignment tool is almost $60 and I'd rather save the cash to spend on a yoke face reamer or other tools (or a gunsmith if needed) should I be able to make do with the Ruger tool to check yoke alignment before addressing cylinder endshake.
Any feedback is much appreciated.
-Cheers
P.S.:
I have a set of cylinder shims & yoke to frame shims on order from TriggerShims.com but I am in no rush to install anything until the revolver checks out (square yoke face & no divot in the cylinder where the shim will rest) and I am sure about what I am doing. So far, I am going by Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th edition shop manual and the power of Youtube & internet. What I know about the Model 28-2 as of now:
I have a very used early to mid 60's Smith Model 28-2 with a 6 inch barrel and a very light single action trigger that shoots .38 specials very, very accurately to point of aim, although with .357 magnums it is all over the place (definitely my fault). Regardless, given that its an old revolver with a good amount of cylinder endshake, I want to rehab this the best I can and thus my question above in the subject line:
I found a good deal recently on a "#3 crane alignment tool for Ruger" but I am wondering if it will also work for checking the yoke alignment on a Smith K, L, N frame revolver. Anyone know about this either way?
I tried the Ruger tool already in the Model 28-2 and it actually seems to fit in the yoke barrel with no apparent play and seems to confirm proper yoke alignment (drops nicely into the frame center pin hole in the back when the thumb latch is pressed). There is a little 'gritiness' as the alignment tool is inserted into the Smith yoke barrel, but perhaps that means the yoke barrel interior needs to be reamed (?) or just cleaned better. I also have a Model 19-2 in jail right now so I'll be going through this with at least one more Smith revolver soon.
The ruger crane tool measures as follows:
Diameter: just barely under 0.3105" (micrometer, harbor freight)
Length (end to end): 3.006"
Length (yoke barrel cylindrical alignment portion): 1.159"
Can anyone advise here or perhaps measure the diameter of the Smith tool to compare? The Smith N & K frame alignment tool is almost $60 and I'd rather save the cash to spend on a yoke face reamer or other tools (or a gunsmith if needed) should I be able to make do with the Ruger tool to check yoke alignment before addressing cylinder endshake.
Any feedback is much appreciated.
-Cheers
P.S.:
I have a set of cylinder shims & yoke to frame shims on order from TriggerShims.com but I am in no rush to install anything until the revolver checks out (square yoke face & no divot in the cylinder where the shim will rest) and I am sure about what I am doing. So far, I am going by Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th edition shop manual and the power of Youtube & internet. What I know about the Model 28-2 as of now:
- Cylinder to barrel (forcing cone) end shake measures ~ 0.008"
- Yoke to frame endshake is ~ 0.002" to 0.0025" with cylinder in (~0.005" without cylinder)
- Yoke retention (side plate) screw is of the crowned type, and has some wear on it where it holds the the yoke in place. Looking at getting a replacement from gunpartscorp.com. Brownell's & Midway carry the newer pointy type of yoke screw.
- Timing seems correct using a Range Rod with a Service insert at full lock up, and no indication of lead spitting.
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