i had this sitting around for a while, but i haven't seen much on the topic here.
So yeah this is like the ugly step child G26 80% clone: it's subcompact, double stack, 2-3 finger grip, 2 pin (instead of 3), not a lot of aftermarket support for this one at all compared to the 17/19. i am not knocking p80, i actually enjoyed the build despite the surprises encountered that i believe are not common issues. Because this is DIY i was not hesitant to use a heavy handed solution to anything i didn't like. if it got in my way, i brought out the hacksaw, diamond file and dremel real quick
For the most part you can build one of these and expect it to go bang when you pull the trigger...first try and with OEM completion kit.
This is actually my first 'glock' and striker pistol and it's been a Looong time since i had any semi auto. I been far away in bolt action and wheel-gun land.
Being used to bolt guns with benchrest trigs and revolvers with springs + shims...the trigger on this gun is horrendous but acceptable after i did some mods. Given the purpose my expectation is for it to be similar to an offshelf Sig P220/226 or AR15 with SSA-E 2stage (probably the high bar).
I expected this to be able to fire 100% using SM rifle primers so no changing FP spring. I did change out the trigger helper spring and polished the usual suspects.
Tried some aftermarket connectors i.e. Zev. They cut the trigger pull weight significantly as advertised, however, they made the trigger feel like a long and deep swimming pool - yuck. I like the stock connector best even though it's very heavy. It gives the proper feedback and feels like a defined 2stage. I got the second stage to be as clean as a SSA-E after mods. gonna give the oem Dot5 connector a try.
Changed the Apex Trigger shoe to a semi flat. Has a shortened and non adjustable overtravel (literally metal behind the trigger). This may not be compatible with certain connectors that have an extremely shallow angle (long pull, light weight). Overtravel is very close to perfect with stock, zev, ghost connectors. Not much room for error and nothing you can do to adjust once you run out of travel.
Being a miniaturized PF940 rather than an actual G26 clone, i would recommend all Gen3 like parts (mainly the trigger bar + housing) even though a real OEM G26 supposedly will interchange Gen3&4 parts (this model appears to behave differently wrt generations).
::Fitting Required::ymmv
rear rail, burrs, oversized can prevent sufficient cruciform travel to drop the striker. Cut It until overtravel is perfect. I had to give the cruciform a light brush with the file to get it fully reliable in every orientation.


a Gen4 trigger bar (with bubble) WILL NOT fit without mod. look at the clearance on the safety plunger ramp vs the slide. They regularly include/sell gen4 trigger bars with completion kits...beware. Gen4 bar might work on a real G26 but this is not an exact clone. Leaving that bubble there bends the whole trigger bar, exerts unnecessary lateral pressures on the slide/rails, and connector itself. Basically the trigger pull feels like dragging a cinder block on gravel if it even works. you need to CUT IT like the song.

It is heavily emphasized in the larger PF940 not to use Gen4 slides or recoil springs. You do not have that option in a G26 because they only had captured recoil assemblies. The OEM one has pretty loose tolerances when it comes to diameter which doesn't help in a subcompact frame cloned around a gen3 non captured spring. As you can see i gutted the frame completely...i cut out the entire floor.

yup, that's an OEM magazine. Magpul actually fares much better when it comes to clearance. i basically reduced the trigger bar width by half and shaved the magazine a little. ohhh the grinding in the trigger pull this caused.

So yeah this is like the ugly step child G26 80% clone: it's subcompact, double stack, 2-3 finger grip, 2 pin (instead of 3), not a lot of aftermarket support for this one at all compared to the 17/19. i am not knocking p80, i actually enjoyed the build despite the surprises encountered that i believe are not common issues. Because this is DIY i was not hesitant to use a heavy handed solution to anything i didn't like. if it got in my way, i brought out the hacksaw, diamond file and dremel real quick
For the most part you can build one of these and expect it to go bang when you pull the trigger...first try and with OEM completion kit.
This is actually my first 'glock' and striker pistol and it's been a Looong time since i had any semi auto. I been far away in bolt action and wheel-gun land.
Being used to bolt guns with benchrest trigs and revolvers with springs + shims...the trigger on this gun is horrendous but acceptable after i did some mods. Given the purpose my expectation is for it to be similar to an offshelf Sig P220/226 or AR15 with SSA-E 2stage (probably the high bar).
I expected this to be able to fire 100% using SM rifle primers so no changing FP spring. I did change out the trigger helper spring and polished the usual suspects.
Tried some aftermarket connectors i.e. Zev. They cut the trigger pull weight significantly as advertised, however, they made the trigger feel like a long and deep swimming pool - yuck. I like the stock connector best even though it's very heavy. It gives the proper feedback and feels like a defined 2stage. I got the second stage to be as clean as a SSA-E after mods. gonna give the oem Dot5 connector a try.
Changed the Apex Trigger shoe to a semi flat. Has a shortened and non adjustable overtravel (literally metal behind the trigger). This may not be compatible with certain connectors that have an extremely shallow angle (long pull, light weight). Overtravel is very close to perfect with stock, zev, ghost connectors. Not much room for error and nothing you can do to adjust once you run out of travel.
Being a miniaturized PF940 rather than an actual G26 clone, i would recommend all Gen3 like parts (mainly the trigger bar + housing) even though a real OEM G26 supposedly will interchange Gen3&4 parts (this model appears to behave differently wrt generations).
::Fitting Required::ymmv
rear rail, burrs, oversized can prevent sufficient cruciform travel to drop the striker. Cut It until overtravel is perfect. I had to give the cruciform a light brush with the file to get it fully reliable in every orientation.


a Gen4 trigger bar (with bubble) WILL NOT fit without mod. look at the clearance on the safety plunger ramp vs the slide. They regularly include/sell gen4 trigger bars with completion kits...beware. Gen4 bar might work on a real G26 but this is not an exact clone. Leaving that bubble there bends the whole trigger bar, exerts unnecessary lateral pressures on the slide/rails, and connector itself. Basically the trigger pull feels like dragging a cinder block on gravel if it even works. you need to CUT IT like the song.

It is heavily emphasized in the larger PF940 not to use Gen4 slides or recoil springs. You do not have that option in a G26 because they only had captured recoil assemblies. The OEM one has pretty loose tolerances when it comes to diameter which doesn't help in a subcompact frame cloned around a gen3 non captured spring. As you can see i gutted the frame completely...i cut out the entire floor.

yup, that's an OEM magazine. Magpul actually fares much better when it comes to clearance. i basically reduced the trigger bar width by half and shaved the magazine a little. ohhh the grinding in the trigger pull this caused.




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