Optimizing Marlin Camp 9 trigger...anyone have any tips/experience?

[mtenenhaus]

Hi, wondering if anyone had any experience optimizing the trigger quality of the Marlin Camp 9 rifle.

Youtube had a nice disassembly video but i couldn't really find anything on optimizing the quality of pull. It currently has a very long pull and brakes with a bit of a jolt.

I would sure appreciate any guidance.

thank you

[shafferds]

There is a company in new York that had parts and did trigger work. From several smith's I've talked with about that trigger group it's a royal pain to reassemble. I left my camp 9 group as is. Parts are hard to find and rem/marlin doesn't have parts.

[mtenenhaus]

Thanks....i appreciate the information. Still learning. The trigger reminds me of an old stock 10/22. I guess i'm so used to a more refined trigger that this one throws me off. A shame really because it otherwise is a kind of neat rifle in excellent shape...and i own it so i'd like to try to make it work for me.

[shafferds]

Make sure to change out the buffer or you can damage the receiver.

[ar15barrels]

Hi, wondering if anyone had any experience optimizing the trigger quality of the Marlin Camp 9 rifle.

Youtube had a nice disassembly video but i couldn't really find anything on optimizing the quality of pull. It currently has a very long pull and brakes with a bit of a jolt.

I would sure appreciate any guidance.

Start with the standard stuff.
Polish parts that slide against other parts.
Polish pins that parts rotate on.
Polish the insides of holes that pins, detents or springs slide or rotate in.
Polish the ends and sides of struts that cause springs to act on parts.

Be careful not to re-shape anything while polishing.
Tighten up slop on parts that sit on pins.
Add an overtravel stop to the trigger and adjust out as much overtravel as the mechanism will allow without causing function problems with the disconnector.

[mtenenhaus]

Thank you so much, i'm going to give it a go this weekend..take a lot of photos so i can get things back together. I'll just carefully polish as you've noted and not reshape. I don't know how to TIG weld unfortunately, not sure how to properly take out any slop, but i'll take a peak at the pins, perhaps i might be able to find ones that fit better.

I think i should be able to fashion a conservative trigger stop with a little dab of JB Weld and polish it?

I achieved a very appreciable qualitative improvement in the .22 rifle i recently addressed with only with polishing.

[ar15barrels]

not sure how to properly take out any slop, but i'll take a peak at the pins, perhaps i might be able to find ones that fit better.

Most parts that pivot on a pin will have the pin sliding through some sort of housing.

Take a 10/22 or an AR-15 as an example.
If the trigger or hammer have slop on the pin OR the pin has slop in the housing, the pins will move as you are pulling the trigger.
An oversized pin will tighten up the slop, giving less creep to the trigger so that the trigger/hammer/disconnector are ONLY doing what they are supposed to be doing as you work the trigger.

Drill rod comes in the same sizes as wire gauge drill bits.
You can open up a part to 0.001" over the next size larger available material and then make a pin from drill rod.

Let's say you have 1/8" pins now that actually measure about 0.125".
You can get a 3ft piece of 0.127" W1 drill rod for $3.07 from McMaster.
Then you will need a couple reamers (0.127 for the housing and 0.128 for the parts) or try a #30 drill bit which is 0.1285", but that's a sloppier fit.

[mtenenhaus]

Thank you so very much for taking the time to help. It means a lot.