Sig P320 80% Insert Completion

[pensiveape]

So I assembled my FCU and it failed somewhere down the line. The trigger can be pulled, but there is no audible/tactile release....if anyone can help I’ve got a couple questions.

1) on step (11): It says if I have one of the “first productions runs of the JSD insert” that I will need to file the rear of the insert to allow the safety to fully depress.
How do I know if I have a first production run of the insert?
—I haven’t filed anything (yet), but I can’t really determine what (if anything is blocked).

2) suppose I accidentally made a hole too big (trigger stop hole), to the point where the pin readily falls out, is there anything that I can do to remedy the situation?

[nubrun]

For number one, did you make sure you reset the takedown safety lever after assembling? You need to lock the slid eback and should hear a clock as the lever resets. After it resets you should have a live trigger.

The trigger stop pin isn't critical. Once the FCU is installed in the grip it won't move.

[pensiveape]

For number one, did you make sure you reset the takedown safety lever after assembling? You need to lock the slid eback and should hear a clock as the lever resets. After it resets you should have a live trigger.

The trigger stop pin isn't critical. Once the FCU is installed in the grip it won't move.

Dumb question: Is it possible to reset the "takedown safety lever" to get a live trigger, without assembling the FCU with the slide?
-Every time thus far that I've assembled the seemingly finished FCU with the slide I have the FCU get locked up with the slide (unable to remove).

Should I be hearing a "click" of a live trigger firing when pulling the trigger fully on a completed FCU by itself (unconnected to frame or slide)?
-Because Although I was able to pull the trigger fully, I didn't hear any click.

I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.

[BrassCase]

I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.

The Alma Coles video starts reassembly at around the 11 minute mark. I used it with the parts and tools in front of me, pausing, reversing, pausing, step by step. The video is a little dark at a couple of points but if you take your time it will work out. nubrun shows what needs to be removed from the FCU on his site. I would guess that MK II insert has that extra material already removed. Mine was the MK I and I'll bet most, if not all of us got the early version.

Also I highly recommend polishing the rails, ALL surfaces. Smooth out the inside of the FCU and I polished the outside. My favorite Dremel wheel is the #500, it will remove material and polish.

[nubrun]

Dumb question: Is it possible to reset the "takedown safety lever" to get a live trigger, without assembling the FCU with the slide?
-Every time thus far that I've assembled the seemingly finished FCU with the slide I have the FCU get locked up with the slide (unable to remove).

Should I be hearing a "click" of a live trigger firing when pulling the trigger fully on a completed FCU by itself (unconnected to frame or slide)?
-Because Although I was able to pull the trigger fully, I didn't hear any click.

I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.

You will not hear any clicks without the slide on and the takedown safety lever reset. Remember it's the striker that makes the click, and hte striker is housed inside of the slide.

When you say you get the FCU "locked up" with the slide, what do you mean? The slide won't come off, or you have trouble getting the FCU out of the grip?

[pensiveape]

The Alma Coles video starts reassembly at around the 11 minute mark. I used it with the parts and tools in front of me, pausing, reversing, pausing, step by step. The video is a little dark at a couple of points but if you take your time it will work out. nubrun shows what needs to be removed from the FCU on his site. I would guess that MK II insert has that extra material already removed. Mine was the MK I and I'll bet most, if not all of us got the early version.

Also I highly recommend polishing the rails, ALL surfaces. Smooth out the inside of the FCU and I polished the outside. My favorite Dremel wheel is the #500, it will remove material and polish.

[pensiveape]

So I disassembled it, and made the removal of the material that is supposed to be taken away from the mark-1 FCUs. I assembled it back together and everything works as it should. Live trigger an all!

I still don’t see what the cut allowed for. I don’t see any more movement that is made possible by the cut, or what movement was hindered before the removal of material... but now it works. Maybe it’s simply coincidence, and I corrected something with the assembly the second time around which I missed the first time.

Tomorrow I’ll take it to the range and give it a test fire.

Thank you guys for being of help to me. Genuinely appreciate it.

[BrassCase]

Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.

[nubrun]

Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.

Can you clarify when you say three attempts at takedown? Are you referring to getting the slide off after the take down lever is rotated, or it takes 3 attempts to rotate the takedown lever?

[pensiveape]

Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.

I took a look at the Brownells video.

The takedown is fairly simple:
1)Lock the slide back with the slide catch
2)Move the throw lever down
3)Release the Slide Catch (allowing slide to move forward in place)
4) remove slide off of the rails

The Brownells video made a point to mention that you must use the slide catch/slide lock, to lock the slide back before moving the throw lever down or back in place when reassembling.
-Just moving the slide back without locking it into place (like you would a Glock), will cause problems (ie. a deactivated trigger).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wyxiD9O83o

[BrassCase]

I wasn't always following the steps. Sometime I put the take down lever down and then racked back, that doesn't work. No problem turning the lever. The problem is with the human operator.

[Flanders]

[Brentzig]

What are you guys using for the 0 round/mag block portion to legally make it a single shot bolt?(I assumed everyone is using the easybolt or something similar for the bolt portion)

[Flanders]

Most folks will do the following: cut a rod (ie. chopstick, kydex) to the proper length and place it into the body so that the follower can't accept a round.

Or,

http://www.magazineblocks.com/magento/products/magblock-kits/pistols/sig/magblock-universal-pistol-limiter.html

[Brentzig]

Most folks will do the following: cut a rod (ie. chopstick, kydex) to the proper length and place it into the body so that the follower can't accept a round.

Or,
http://www.magazineblocks.com/magent...l-limiter.html

Ah, so creating a 0 round magazine.

Does the mag release button need to be removed or "locked" in some fashion? Or will CA DOJ/oag accept this as single shot with a 0 rounder and standard magazine release?

Trying to figure out how to do this last portion before I jump in on this project. Thanks by the way, I've put in hours of searches but I've been having trouble on this one specific area!