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[Ishootforblood]

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[kcstott]

That kit is used to restore buggered threads not stripped threads. Aluminum has a tendency to pull threads completely out, and if thats what happened on your 10-22 that kit won't work.

If you did strip the hole clean of threads that kit will give you back just enough thread to think you fixed it then strip right out again.

Best bet is to tap it 8-40 but then you have the base to deal with and the screws.

But I do like the fact that you took the initiative to find a solution yourself. That skill is lost in most people today. Go read the AR trigger install. Guy has an 80% lower yet thinks for some reason its the factory hammer thats screwed up. Wants to grind on it to fix it. Has no clue that maybe just maybe he cut the pocket to short. few day later, and monkeying with other lowers he "thinks" he figured it out.

He the type that would have a boot full of water and when you tell him the answer is printed on the heal he still can't pour it out.

[RogueSniper]

How much heat can a 10/22 aluminum receiver take? I ask this because I was looking to fill a mis-drilled hole on a 10/22. I did some preliminary research and YouTube search, and found Aluminum welding. They say to heat the aluminum and the heated metal will melt the rod to allow a "weld". I see them joining gutters and screens but I don't know if that weld would hold a scope mount.

Would this fill the hole sufficiently to allow drilling and tapping?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtvOkI_pvMI

[ar15barrels]

The easiest solution for stripped out 10/22 recievers is to just add more screw holes.
I have also fixed stripped-out 10-22 scope base holes by adding a flathead screw from INSIDE the receiver by drilling a clearance hole through the receiver and tapping the rail so that the rail has the female threads.
The scope base is much thicker than the top of a 10-22 receiver so this gives a stronger installation.

[kcstott]

That is a really good idea. You are right. The top of the 10-22 receiver is really thin, and the factory scope base screws do not provide much of a hold. I would be concerned about keeping that flat head screw in place and out of the way of the bolt. Can you post a picture? A rock-solid rail on a 10-22 would be a very good thing.

And to completely derail the thread thtas also why a aftermarket railed 80% would be a good idea too. but some won't spend th emoney on that let alone a proper fix.

That is a damn good idea Randall.

[ar15barrels]

I would be concerned about keeping that flat head screw in place and out of the way of the bolt.
Can you post a picture?

I don't think I took pictures the last few times I did it.
I countersink the inside of the receiver so that there is no part of the screw head sticking down where the bolt slides.
I Loctite the screw into the rail so there is no chance of it loosening and hanging down into the bolt's path.

[TexasJackKin]

Randall....That is a good solution, one I've never though of, but I've got it in my pocket now. Thanks!

[xsefan]

If you have a drill press you can make sure the drill but is a close to perfect 90% to the reciever and drill it out. Then remove the drill bit and put the tap in the chuck. DON'T turn on the motor . Turn it buy hand. Tap the hole.

[fishoot]

I re-tapped the stripped out holes for 8-40 screws. I roughed the receiver where it is covered by the base and roughed the underside of the base (using 80 grit sandpaper), then epoxied the base and tightened up the new screws. She will never come loose without heat now!