1911 tuning**possible solution

[Pofoo]

I have a Star model SS, which is basically a 85% size 1911. 380 acp. It's not a exact copy, but if functions the same. Swing link tilting barrel. No grip safety. This one is basically new and I'm pretty impressed by the quality of the finished parts. I know that Spanish pistols don't have the best reputation.
Beautiful gun that is fun to shoot. But, it isn't real reliable. It jams up about 10% if the time. It always extracts, but not always ejects. Stove pipe jams, and sometimes when the slide locks back on a empty mag, the last case will be laying on the mag follower. Sometimes ejects straight into my forehead. Also a lot of weak ejections--cases don't travel very far.
I also get fail to go into battery and some nose up jams. These can usually be overcome by retracting the slide slightly and letting it spring home.
I have 3 factory magazines (InterArms) and there doesn't seem to be any difference between them.
It does have a external extractor, which I believe is a lot of the problem. I have beveled and polished the bottom of the extractor and the breach face which seemed to help.
So, looking on line, I see that for a Colt style .45 1911, some people claim that the extractor should bear on the case rim, not the hook bearing on the case groove. Is this correct? Right now, the hook is the part that is bearing on the case groove, and there is a slight gap between the case rim and the extractor pad. Some of my other pistols seem to be either way.
So, any thoughts?

[ar15barrels]

There needs to be a gap between the case rim and the back of the hook in order for the case to pivot on the extractor as the other side of the case strikes the ejector.
Extractor tension, ejector length, ejection port clearance and magazine lip length are generally the things that are tuned to correct extraction and ejection problems.
Magazine feedlips, frame and barrel feedramps and the throating of the chamber are usually worked on to correct feeding problems.

[MosinVirus]

Have you tried other brands of ammo?

It sounds to me like the slide is not going back with authority to smack the casing against the ejector with sufficient force.

However, do some casings ever go far when ejected?

As mentioned above, check how well the extractor is holding an empty case against the breech face of the slide. (With the slide off the frame obviously and check the same with a live round)

I would deal with one problem at a time. Ejection and then feeding. Because lack of ejection can impede feeding.

[Pofoo]

I've used Remington and Fiocchi. The Fiocchi may work a little better.
The slide does lock back consistently, so I'm assuming that it's recoiling ok? Or not? Recoil spring too heavy?
Cases are consistently extracted but not always ejected, or ejected randomly. Since parts are non existent, a longer ejector is not a option. Any idea how far the ejector should protrude past the breach face with the slide locked back?
Cases eject from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock. From 2" to 2'.
Sounds like this project is going to take a bit of time.
Thanks for the help. This is a cool little gun that the wife shoots well. Should also be a good transition pistol for the grandkids, so I really want to get it running well.
I'd like to get a Browning 1911 380 that would be similar, low recoil. Of course, not available in Kalifornia.

[ojisan]

It sounds to me like the slide is not going back with authority to smack the casing against the ejector with sufficient force.
.

This.
Maybe take a look at the recoil spring.
Is it the right one?
Is it too long?
Coil binding? (Spring will not be the same diameter along it's length).

Maybe see if Wolfe has a new recoil spring?

[Pofoo]

The spring looks real good. Straight and even. Even though the gun is 35-40 yrs old, it looks like new and has very few wear marks. I don't think it was shot much at all. This gun is fairly rare and there is no info or specs available. I've heard Wolf will match a spring if you will give them the measurements, but I wouldn't have any idea on the strength rating.
I'll try to check the spring at full compression to make sure that it's not binding up. Thanks for the suggestion.

[ar15barrels]

Since parts are non existent, a longer ejector is not a option.

You can weld up the existing ejector to extend it.

[Pofoo]

You can weld up the existing ejector to extend it.

OK, Good to have options.
Thank you

[Pofoo]

I completely disassembled the pistol including all pinned parts, etc. looking for anything that might be rubbing or binding up. I did find a big problem. Actually, I should have seen it without going through all the problem of a complete disassembly. What I did find is that the ejector is inletted into the frame differently than a normal 1911. It sits in a groove that goes all the way across the frame, and then pinned in place. It also acts as a hammer stop when the slide is off. Basically, the back edge of the frame. The top edge/corner had been peened up a bit and it was rubbing on the bottom of the slide/breech block. This impeded the last 3/4" of slide travel. A little file work and the slide is really smooth now.
So, I think this was the major problem. I won't know for sure till I get a chance to shoot it in a few weeks.
Even though I spent a lot of probably unnecessary time disassembling and looking for binding parts, I've learned a lot about this pistol. And, I didn't break anything or loose any parts/springs! It's really a simple design. Some real simple solutions to basic engineering.
Thanks everyone for all the help.

[ojisan]

^ Excellent.
You now know the gun inside and out.
You found the problem and fixed it, I am sure.
This experience will pay you well in the future, too.

Winning!

[ar15barrels]

the back edge of the frame. The top edge/corner had been peened up a bit and it was rubbing on the bottom of the slide/breech block.

Was the peening from the hammer striking it?
If so, then the part is too soft.
Keep a watch as it is going to happen again.

If the part is removable from the frame, you may consider removing it and hardening it.
Bring it to about 50-55c so it's not so hard that it shatters.

[ar15barrels]

Is it like this starfire part?

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/447490D

[Pofoo]

It is similar, but not exactly the same. There are relief cuts on the actual ejector part. May be able to be made to work.
It looks like it was peened by the hammer.
As far as I've been able to research, the Starfire is a different pistol and I haven't seen any info on cross referencing parts.
I've thought that it may be a soft part. Not uncommon on Spanish pistols.
I tried to check to make sure that the hammer hits the fireing pin and not the ejector, but I can't see in there with the hammer down. Looks to be pretty close. Couldn't I file it down a little to recess it back from the fireing pin stop, if needed?
I'll definitely keep a eye on it and no letting the hammer fly with the slide off.