How to reduce 1911 trigger reset?

[SoCal1911]

delete

[buruli]

Simplest thing is to get a trigger with an adjustment screw. What this does is limit the overtravel. Less overtravel means faster reset

[Gringo Bandito]

Check out video 1 and 2..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76aXF3dWE4w

[ar15barrels]

First reduce overtravel as much as possible.
Then look at how much pre-travel the trigger has.
Some have pre-travel tabs that you can bend to reduce the pre-travel.
Do not FULLY eliminate the pre-travel as you need a little bit for safety (to keep the sear from resting on the trigger).

[MosinVirus]

Explained above. Overtravel adjustment.

[ducky_0811]

So what they're saying is, if your trigger doesn't already have an overtravel adjustment screw, drill and tap a hole in lower third of the trigger shoe for a set screw. You will be adjusting the screw to stop against the mag release limiting the trigger travel.

[ar15barrels]

So what they're saying is, if your trigger doesn't already have an overtravel adjustment screw, drill and tap a hole in lower third of the trigger shoe for a set screw.
You will be adjusting the screw to stop against the mag release limiting the trigger travel.

That works.
You could also just buy a trigger that already has an overtravel screw in it.
The actual trigger has very little effect on the feel of the trigger pull and reset on a 1911.
The trigger's job is simply to push the sear off the hammer.
What you are actually feeling when you pull the trigger is the sear sliding against the hammer as well as the force of the springs that reset those parts.

The only time the trigger really matters is if it does not fit correctly in the frame or around the mags.

[SkyHawk]

Easier to buy a trigger that already has over-travel screw in the pad and pretravel tabs on the bow.

http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Triggers/products/97/

https://stiguns.com/triggers-hammers/

[ducky_0811]

Yeah I know it's easy to just buy an adjustable trigger, but he said he likes to tinker with stuff, being a tool and die maker, a simple drill and tap job should be quick and easy.

[MosinVirus]

Yeah I know it's easy to just buy an adjustable trigger, but he said he likes to tinker with stuff, being a tool and die maker, a simple drill and tap job should be quick and easy.

And it doesn't have to be an adjustable screw. Just some protrusion out the back of the pad that will hit the magazine release. The protrusion can be filed carefully down until the hammer half cock notch will not touch the sear while the trigger is pulled all the way back.

Harrison Design triggers do use a screw permanently attached to the back of the trigger. You file those down instead of turning.

[ar15barrels]

Yeah I know it's easy to just buy an adjustable trigger, but he said he likes to tinker with stuff, being a tool and die maker, a simple drill and tap job should be quick and easy.

Besides a screw for overtravel, you can tig weld little bumps on the front of the bow and then shorten the bumps as needed to set the amount of pre-travel.

[SkyHawk]

Oh noes, now you tell us it is EMP... Not 1911, but 1911ish

You my have to weld up some bumps on the bow like Randall suggested if you can't find a trigger with tabs to adjust the takeup (pretravel).

Also, the tabs will not change the actual reset point. If you feel, after pulling the trigger, that the travel is too long to get back to reset, and the overtravel is adjusted properly - then the trigger or bow is not the fix. The first cure for a long reset is reducing the overtravel. Reducing the pretravel just reduces the amount of forward travel after reset has occurred.

I would really focus on getting the overtravel just right, set to no more than you need. Did you have the grip safety and thumb safety out when adjusting it?

[ar15barrels]

Thanks guys! The trigger does have the set screw which I have adjusted to reduce the over travel, the amount the trigger moves rearward, once the round is fired. Maybe i am using the wrong terms. My question was how to reduce the amount of reset. The amount you have to let the trigger move forward after the round is fired, to reset the trigger for the next round to be fired, for quick double taps.Gringo Bandito's link and what Randall Rausch said is what i was looking to find out. It seems i need a different trigger with the tabs/ wings that would be bent out to reduce the reset trigger travel. But since I am working on a EMP, and they have nonstandard 1911 trigger, shorter grip then regular 1911. it may be impossible to find an after martket trigger with the tabs. Unless someone knows who makes them for the Springfield EMP. If anyone knows who makes an after marker trigger for the EMP that has the tabs, please let me know.

Again thanks everyone, you guys are a wealth of knowledge, Calguns is a great group!

A tig welder is your friend.
Put a little drop on each side on the curved part of the bow in front.
Then shorten the bumps until your trigger is NOT holding the sear off the frame when it's at rest.
The sear should rest against the frame when your finger is off the trigger.
Keep at least 0.020" of trigger pre-travel before the trigger bow begins to make the sear move.

[DueceMcGurk]

It sounds like my concerns about TIG welding on the bow (warpage, metal fatigue) are unfounded. Anyone use the "two vertical cuts" method of making a tab? I had to use this recently. It worked to give me about 0.025" pretravel but I don't know if this pre-travel adjustment will hold in the long term.

[ar15barrels]

It sounds like my concerns about TIG welding on the bow (warpage, metal fatigue) are unfounded.

You need to be a good tig welder and it would be better if your machine had a pulser to weld tiny/thin stuff like trigger bows.

Putting the trigger on the brownells trigger bow die while you do it certainly helps too.