Setting headspace on a Rem/age

[hardlyworking]

I've got what I think are all the tools/parts to set headspace on a new Rem/age setup.

Forster Go and No-Go gauges, action wrench, recoil lug locator bits, barrel nut wrench, "trusty" harbor freight torque wrench.

Do I need to remove the ejector from the bolt?
Or can that stay in?

If I do have to remove it is there a common way to do so short of buying another $80 in highly specialized parts + shipping from Brownelle's?

I recognize that launching my ejector and/or spring across my garage will render the bolt/rifle sub-functional and is to be avoided.

[BigToach]

It is always recommended to remove the ejector, to rule out any chance of incorrect headspacing from the spring tension of the ejector. With that warning in mind I chose to headspace with the ejector in place still. I used the go-gauge with scotch tape method. I have not encountered any problems and the rifle is a tack driver. Barrel was a .308 criterion prefit from northland shooters supply.

[hardlyworking]

It is always recommended to remove the ejector, to rule out any chance of incorrect headspacing from the spring tension of the ejector. With that warning in mind I chose to headspace with the ejector in place still. I used the go-gauge with scotch tape method. I have not encountered any problems and the rifle is a tack driver. Barrel was a .308 criterion prefit from northland shooters supply.

Thanks BigToach! Yes I'm in that exact boat, criterion prefit from NSS.

[ar15barrels]

Removing the ejector and bolt shroud gives you the much-needed ability to "feel" the headspace gauge.
If you can't properly feel the gauge, you might be tighter or looser than you think.

[hardlyworking]

Thanks Randall!

First I did the paracord loop to lift the firing pin, insert dime, and remove the shroud and firing pin.

Then I built a dumb little "tool" which consists of a round head bolt that just fits inside the bolt face, screwed into a piece of left over wooden molding which would allow me the leverage to depress the ejector plunger while holding a punch with my left hand and hammer with my right. Really needed a 3rd hand on this one, but managed to get the ejector pulled out.

Put the action in the action-wrench block but then put the block into my bench-vice so I could use both hands. Used anti-seize on the barrel threads (product said it was for use with stainless steel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and threaded the barrel in all the way, and then back out to get the anti-seize all up on the threads.

Next put the barrel nut on, and get it maxed out at the top, add recoil lug and get the barrel threaded most of the way in. Added the go gauge on a closed bolt and thread the barrel in until it made contact. Set the recoil lug with the alignment tool and hand tightened the barrel nut up against it.

Then I took the torque wrench and set it at 20-ft-lbs to set the nut. And loosened, repeat at 30 ft-lbs, and 40 ft-lbs, and finally 45 ft-lbs (spec from NSS). I'm not sure if stainless threads need to be "seasoned" or if the tightening/loosening stated above would have any beneficial effect, so maybe that was all useless voodoo but its what I did...

Took out the go-gauge and put in the no-go and bolt bottomed out before it could close as it should. Put the GO back in and it closed up fine as it should.

Putting the ejector back in however definitely required a 3rd hand. Also I am SO happy I bought roll-pin starter punches as that made a HUGE difference for me.

Everything went back together rather smoothly and honestly the process seemed "too easy" which has me a bit worried even though the gauges tell me it all checks out.

For a target rifle it seems to be solidly heavy. I don't think I want to do field shooting, or shooting and moving with it though. I'm definitely going to get a second much lighter barrel for it in the same caliber before I go and do a bunch of that.

[kcstott]

Everything went back together rather smoothly and honestly the process seemed "too easy" which has me a bit worried even though the gauges tell me it all checks out.

that's the way it should be with the right tools and setup Some of my Forster or Manson gauges have relief cuts for the ejector FYI

[ar15barrels]

Some of my Forster or Manson gauges have relief cuts for the ejector FYI

Those are Manson.
Forester does not relieve gauges for ejectors.

[kcstott]

Those are Manson.
Forester does not relieve gauges for ejectors.

Yeah i don't pay attention to that stuff like i should