A Dark Park

[SDgarrick]

...Is what I'm looking for.

I know parkerizing has ben discussed at length but SEARCH as I might I haven't had my question answered, so here goes.

I'm looking to redo the finish on an old Star 1911 style pistol. I eventually want it to look like a Kimber warrior, so a dark finish is desired. I know parkerizing is durable, but it often turns out grey. I've read about zinc vs manganese and know manganese to be a darker finish, but would it give me the type of black I'm looking for? is it durable? The closest I've come in my brief research is Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. This seems to be a good option, but only because I know so little about manganese parkerizing.

So it boils down to this (sorry for the essay): I want a dark black finish and don't mind the matte of parking. but is Mang parking really that dark? is it a better option than Alumna Hyde II. I would really appreciate a comparison vs "I like alumna hyde becuse it's great!" However, if you have had a particulary excellent or negative experience with a producct, please let me know.

Thanks all!

[ar15barrels]

Lauer has some addative that will give a really dark parkerizing.
Drew used it on one of the last barrel I sent him and it came out BLACK.

[SDgarrick]

Thanks Randall...I noticed they sell the pre-dip in 1 gallon increments...Maybe I can track down a smaller quantity. Anyway thanks again for the heads up.

[joelukehart]

Caswell Plating has a black oxide kit that is real easy to use. I've used it on my ar barrel and several small parts and they come out pretty dark.The instructions say to abrasive blast and dip in the solution but I have found that preheating the parts helps greatly.

[bigbob76]

Parking...

I've been doing some small parts with Caswell's black oxide while I wait for a container big enough for barreled receivers to be shipped. I degrease, blast, degrease, and put it in the solution cold. The time in solution seems to determine how dark it comes out. Oil bath immediately after removing from solution. Leaving the parts wet with the oil for a few days seems to make them darker unless it's my imagination. When I have my tank ready for heating I'll experiment with pre black and post black with the cold solution.

[kingjoey]

Send your slide in to us, we'll park it DARK.

[Harbinger]

I also found that with mag park, the type of media you use for blasting the surface has an effect on the final color. I'm not sure if this is just anecdotal evidence, but for me, Aluminum-Oxide gave the darkest and cleanest (obviously) final finish.

Mike

[SDgarrick]

I've read that black oxide is a dark, if not the darkest of the park-like finishes, But Is it as durable and does it offer the same protection as traditional parkerizing?
BTW thanks so much for all your replies.

[ar15barrels]

I've read that black oxide is a dark, if not the darkest of the park-like finishes, But Is it as durable and does it offer the same protection as traditional parkerizing?
BTW thanks so much for all your replies.

Black oxide offers no protection from rust.
It's a very thin finish that simply coverts the surface of the metal to be dark.

Parkerizing alone offers no protection from rust ether.
However, during the surface conversion, the surface grows a coarse crystaline like finish which does a very good job of holding oil.
It's this oil that protects so well.

[saki302]

Shooter Solutions sells a nice manganese black park solution- everything comes out BLACK.

If you have a stainless pan and a hot plate, you can park yourself very easily- just find a friend with a sand blaster or bead blast cabinet to prep your parts first, and DON'T TOUCH them post-blast but pre-park. You can 'rinse' them off with brake cleaner first.

-Dave

[SDgarrick]

I'm leaning toward a Manganese Park, like the one Saki listed. If for no other reason than cost, I am after all a student on a modest budget. If any of you can offer any advice to following this route I'd appreciate it. I've read articles online, but I have no illusions as to my inexperience and I value all your input.

[saki302]

The SS manganese black is super easy to use- it comes with instructions.

Just buy a hot plate (craigslist is great- got mine for $10), and a stainless pan off ebay (probably $10-20). You'll also need a turkey thermometer that goes up to 200 degrees, and some wire (coat hanger) to make something to hold up the thermometer. Keep in mind th ewire stays out of the solution unless it is stainless.

Get distilled water too- supermarket stuff will work, but industrial grade stuff is even better.

You will be surprised how many times you can re-use the solution!

-Dave