Rust blue experience?

[Spyder]

I'm just about done with my Caspian 460 Rowland, and am at the point where I should decide on how to finish it. I'm leaning pretty heavily towards doing a rust blue on it.

Carbon steel frame and slide in the white. This process looks like a fun if time consuming one, and the way I imagine it in my head, it'll come out looking fantastic.

Anyone who wants to nudge my decision one way or the other, go for it, but I'm ready to figure out which one I want to use and buy the stuff so I can finally have this thing done! I also have not decided on grips, or on sights yet. The intent is to be a lead free big and blacktail deer gun.

http://www.rustblue.com/

Pics of where it's at now attached. I've fired a couple rounds of 45 ACP through it, and ordered Rowland brass and copper bullets yesterday, along with a Chip McCormick 10 round mag. The mag well on the Race Ready Recon doesn't quite let a regular mag fit in, and I don't want to do that much work to the magwell, so the poly based 10 rounder will get touched up to fit. I think. We'll see how things go when the parts come in!

[Maht_g]

In for the responses, I've been debating on refinishing a slide that looks like hell from carrying. Looks to be pretty easy, just time consuming. I've been watching a bunch of YouTube videos on it

[kcstott]

I't's time consuming and messy, but beautiful

Heres a 16 ga shotgun I restored for my Cousin

[Spyder]

Yep, it's purty. I think I'm gonna go that way with it. Now to decide...frame AND slide, or just frame...

[IrishJoe3]

This is the rust blue I used I told you about. I did an entire revolver, it actually turned out really well and was really easy, overall. It's just slow, as you apply it, let it rust, boil it, then card it. I did a coat a day, and after a week or so, had a really nice, even blue. I bought a fine stainless steel wire wheel, which made carding only take a couple minutes. I used a cotton ball to dab on the solution, then I'd let rust over night. Next day, I'd throw it in a pot, boil it, brush it, and reapply. Wash rinse repeat until satisfied.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/classic-american-rust-blue-prod9815.aspx

[kcstott]

I used brownells house brand and it worked well.
Be sure you plug you barrel if you decide to blue it.
You are aggressively rusting parts and anything left uncarded after each of 10 to 20 coats through the acid and boil will pit to hell.
The neat thing is you can take your time and even walk away for a week come back and keep going. You need to be careful doing that but it can be done

That shot gun took 18 coats to get there and I only stoped because it refused to rust any longer.

I'll tell you this too rust browning and bluing is more durable finish then hot salts bluing. It's just very labor intensive

[Spyder]

Awesome. I'm gonna do it. ...although now I'm thinking I may practice on my TM frame first, since it needs some sort of finish applied as well.

Not getting it in the barrel will be easy, barrel is stainless, so no blue!

[Maht_g]

Any recommendations on where to buy the solution locally? Are gunshops likely to carry it? Bass pro? Don't need anything from brownells. I ordered mags from midway last week and looked for it but they don't sell it...

[Maht_g]

Or a home brew recipe?

[kcstott]

Or a home brew recipe?

Order a few jars and call it good. There are others out there but far mor expensive then the Brownells stuff.
As far as local?? Good luck highly specialized product would rot on the shelf before it sold.

[saki302]

If I hate you, I'd recommend rust blue

It comes out real nice, but takes SO LONG to do.. lots of elbow grease and patience.

If it was a carry piece, I'd probably go with duracoat instead. Rust blue isn't that durable.

[DS94901]

I haven't used it yet but many people prefer Laurel Mountain rust blue and degreaser. Apparently it is easier when using this product to avoid any remaining oil left on the metal which normally gives you poor results. AK Files has a Sticky on Rust Blue with lots of pics.

[kcstott]

If I hate you, I'd recommend rust blue

It comes out real nice, but takes SO LONG to do.. lots of elbow grease and patience.

If it was a carry piece, I'd probably go with duracoat instead. Rust blue isn't that durable.

Wow there's a huge piece of misinformation. Rust blue is far more durable the duracoat, cerakote, and hot bluing. Yeah it takes far longer to do but it will out last any other treatment.

[Maht_g]

Ya I think rust bluing is super durable, it just takes time. I have time and elbow grease but I hate the look of cerakote and duracoat. Looking forward to trying it out. Guess i won't waste time looking locally, brownells here I come!

[Spyder]

The labor intensive part is kind of what I want. I've got lots of elbow grease and learning in to this thing already, and it will be fun to kill a hog with it knowing I did it all myself. My homemade AK sure was fun for that, and I ever get around to the semi auto m60 kit under my bed it dang sure will be a pig gun...

I've also been looking at color case hardening. Will have to buy another TM 1911 frame to do that on in the future...