Can a flash hider that has been welded be removed with no damage and minimal cost?
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Weld question
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IF you have the skill and tools, yes.
If you have the tools, maybe
If you take it to someone who has the skills and tools and pay them appropriately, yes
If you take it to someone who has the tools, maybe has the tools, and pay them the lowest price you can, then probably not.Fear is the spare change that will keep you broke
Call him run-like-hell-when-shtf-guy or dial-911-guy but NEVER call an unarmed man "Security".Comment
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I've removed a few for friends that did not want to pay a shop 60-70 dollars to remove them. The price will vary depending on how they are removed, if you are throwing it away afterwards and it is not a desirable piece likely you could find a shop that may do it for 40-50 bucks. But if you are planning on re using or selling it for some one who may use it the method of removal might cost more due to taking the time to drill the weld instead of grinding it off. This is assuming that it is not soldered on and only pinned and welded. Do you know what method was used? I have used a grinder and cut off wheel on birdcage hiders without issue because I trashed it afterwards just a thought.
One of the ones I did was a welded hole with no pin at all. I imagine there are quite a few of these out there too. I started grinding it and stopped because the pin was never put into the hole. some body was brave or they just forgot the pin I dont know but I wouldnt want to take that chance myself.Last edited by Bullets&Whitewalls; 01-12-2017, 3:25 PM.Comment
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I agree with all the above posts but will add if it was installed properly or not.
If someone beat it to fit and welded it to match it gets pricy quick. I usually include removing the old brake with the thread, pin and weld job. But that's $80
If (and I'm not trying to solicit work as I'm booked solid for the next few months) it doesn't give me too much grief $50
My typical pin and welds run $30Last edited by kcstott; 01-13-2017, 4:16 AM.Comment
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No.
Let's assume you are talking about a muzzle device that has been blind-pinned and then the weld is only within the muzzle device.
You need to remove enough of the weld to get the pin out.
If you drill down the middle of the weld, your drill bit will spin the pin which will stop the drill bit from going deep enough.
I usually just grind out a groove in the muzzle device with a 4.5" angle grinder cutoff wheel until I get really close to the threads and I can get the pin out with vibration/impact.
Sometimes, the pin will not come out until you actually grind into the threads themselves.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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duh how much weld was applied? Method?Comment
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Two passes of 1/8" 7018
Or worse a half a starter pack 0f 1/8" 6010 welded on a Lincoln 225 AC buzz box. Because if you can weld, Just weld more.
That said i make it easy on the next guy. I use a .093" pin in a .096" hole, I only drill .080" past the threads and I use just enough heat (tig) to fuse weld the pin to the brake. I rarely use filler. This way the next guy can just spot my weld with a 1/8" endmill and the pin should fall out.Last edited by kcstott; 01-13-2017, 5:20 AM.Comment
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