1911 Recoil Cup Mangled

[MrKiltYou]

I am not sure if this is normal wear. My recoil cup on my Springfield Champion seems a bit mangled. I had noticed on this one and on another that came with a full length guide rod had wear along the lip of the cup. However this looks a bit worse and was actually a bit stuck in the slide the last time I took it apart.

I guess my question this normal and should just replace the cup or is this a symptom of an underlying problem.




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[ojisan]

Looks like the face is hitting hard on metal and smashing it over.
It's hard to tell, but those look like government length for a 5" barrel.
The 4" barrels use a shorter cap.

[MrKiltYou]

Looks like the face is hitting hard on metal and smashing it over.
It's hard to tell, but those look like government length for a 5" barrel.
The 4" barrels use a shorter cap.

That is the cup that Springfield put in the gun. However I could have years ago put in an aftermarket recoil spring. But I don't remember. If I put too light of a spring that could explain if it is the guide rod slamming into the cup.


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[tophatjones]

Try this:

Field strip the gun, then reassemble everything excluding the recoil spring. Retract the slide all the way to the rear. Put a couple pieces of masking tape or use a sharpie to draw a vertical line across the slide and frame somewhere, probably dust cover area. Now, remove the recoil spring plug but have everything else assembled, again excluding recoil spring. Retract slide again and see if your vertical lines match up or not.

Bottom line, it appears your recoil plug is contacting the recoil spring rod flange which means it is too long, the back of the plug needs to be trimmed so that the slide contacts the recoil spring rod flange.

[tophatjones]

Oops, just realized that's a reverse plug. Is the plug housing in the slide counterbored so that the rear of the plug sits below flush or does the plug have flanges that sit against the plug housing abutment on the slide?

[MosinVirus]

What caliber is the gun, and what ammo are you using (grains and is it +P, etc.). Are these guns older, and have you ever replaced recoil springs or hammer springs?

If these are original parts (recoil guide rod and spring plug) the beating is a result of the slide coming back too fast.

How is the ejection? I bet the casings are launching with some authority and landing far...

Stronger recoil spring and if you are using lighter hammer springs then those too. And yes, replace the spring plugs in both if damaged. This might be a solution. But please give us more pics so we caN see if something else is going on.

These plugs look like collar reverse plugs. Those should not be impacting on the guide rod unless the slide is also impacting.

How does your springs look? I can't figure out why the spring plugs are damaged in such a way (with shapes in the faces)

Please show us the recoil shoulder of the frameS (where the guude rod head sits), the guide rod heads, springs, backs of slides' spring plug tunnels and if possible better pictures of the plugs again.

[MrKiltYou]

What caliber is the gun, and what ammo are you using (grains and is it +P, etc.). Are these guns older, and have you ever replaced recoil springs or hammer springs?

Sorry for the confusion. This is one gun I am having the issue with. I have used both and aftermarket two piece guide rod as well as the original short one. The hammer spring has never been replaced and the recoil spring may or may not have. I honestly don't remember. I bought the gun new around 2000.

This gun is chambered for 45ACP and for the most part I shoot factory 230 grain ammo. Mostly Winchester White Box.

If these are original parts (recoil guide rod and spring plug) the beating is a result of the slide coming back too fast.

The original guide and plug have about 1.5k rounds on them and the two piece full length has maybe 300. I took the full length and recoil buff out some time ago after some advice from someone over ejection issues.

How is the ejection? I bet the casings are launching with some authority and landing far...

I don't recall them ejecting anymore then my Glock 34. But honestly I have no idea.

Stronger recoil spring and if you are using lighter hammer springs then those too. And yes, replace the spring plugs in both if damaged. This might be a solution. But please give us more pics so we caN see if something else is going on.

Pics are below. The recoil spring looks undamaged but the end of it is a bit flattened. I included a picture but not sure if you can see it.

These plugs look like collar reverse plugs. Those should not be impacting on the guide rod unless the slide is also impacting.

How does your springs look? I can't figure out why the spring plugs are damaged in such a way (with shapes in the faces)

Please show us the recoil shoulder of the frameS (where the guude rod head sits), the guide rod heads, springs, backs of slides' spring plug tunnels and if possible better pictures of the plugs again.

I think I got all the pictures asked for. I think at the end of the day I will most likely get a complete spring kit, plug, and rod.





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[MosinVirus]

Your recoil spring appears to be damaged on the crimped side (the end that is closed and that goes onto the guide rod).

Once or two coils in that section seems to be unwound slightly. I wonder if that is what was causing the damage. Have you ever had issues with slide not locking back on empty?

Can you put the spring plug into the slide and take a picture of how it sits in there? Please post it.

You can also try to test whether the unwound coil of the spring is what stacks against the spring plug by:

Taking the slide
Putting the barrel in
Putting the reverse spring plug in
Placing the open end of the recoil spring into the spring plug eith the guide rod in rhe other end of the spring
While manually compressing the spring, move the guide rod toward the spring plug by pushing it forward.

See if that unwond coil gets out and hits the spring plug before your guide rod head touches the back of the spring plug and Slide spring plug tunnel, but I am not sure you will see the back of the spring plug level with the back of spring plug tunnel (the plug looks like it will disappear into the slide spring plug tunnel completely. That is why I want to see a pic of how deep its rear goes into the slide.

In any case, the shape that I see peened unto the back face of the spring plug looks like spring to me. And I would definitely get a new spring.

[Gringo Bandito]

spring bind?

[MosinVirus]

spring bind?

That is why I want to see if his guide rod head can touch the back of the slide. The spring could be stacking/coil binding.

[MrKiltYou]

Your recoil spring appears to be damaged on the crimped side (the end that is closed and that goes onto the guide rod).

Once or two coils in that section seems to be unwound slightly. I wonder if that is what was causing the damage. Have you ever had issues with slide not locking back on empty?

Can you put the spring plug into the slide and take a picture of how it sits in there? Please post it.

You can also try to test whether the unwound coil of the spring is what stacks against the spring plug by:

Taking the slide
Putting the barrel in
Putting the reverse spring plug in
Placing the open end of the recoil spring into the spring plug eith the guide rod in rhe other end of the spring
While manually compressing the spring, move the guide rod toward the spring plug by pushing it forward.

See if that unwond coil gets out and hits the spring plug before your guide rod head touches the back of the spring plug and Slide spring plug tunnel, but I am not sure you will see the back of the spring plug level with the back of spring plug tunnel (the plug looks like it will disappear into the slide spring plug tunnel completely. That is why I want to see a pic of how deep its rear goes into the slide.

In any case, the shape that I see peened unto the back face of the spring plug looks like spring to me. And I would definitely get a new spring.

I will try that out in the morning. I was looking around at a replacement plug and it seems that the only ones that I can find with a shoulder on the inside like mine are reverse plugs but they look like they have a slant cut on them for guns that don't use a barrel bushing. This has a barrel busing. Can I use a traditional commander plug where the shoulder is at the end of the plug and rests on the bushing rather then the grove machined into the slide?

[MrKiltYou]

Actually I will most likely go with this.

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/springfield-4-guide-rod-spring-kit/

[MosinVirus]

Actually I will most likely go with this.

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/sp...od-spring-kit/

That will work. but I don't see how the bushing is used with a reverse plug.

[MrKiltYou]

That will work. but I don't see how the bushing is used with a reverse plug.

The plug still sticks out a bit and locks the bushing in place. I will send an assembler pic tomorrow as well.


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[MosinVirus]

The plug still sticks out a bit and locks the bushing in place. I will send an assembler pic tomorrow as well.


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Oh got it. But it doesn't stick out in the back, right?