80% Spectra problems

[ez2b]

Finished my Spectra with all Lone Wolf internal parts and slide with Barrel.
My problem is the trigger is not resetting also assuming firing pin is not getting charged cannot dry fire to disassemble / remove Upper from frame I have to remove butt plate on slide remove firing pin to disassemble question is is there a troubleshooting solution I can go through to see what my problem is? I do know that people are having problems with the Lone Wolf parts and their Spectra. but it should work they work in a Glock xcetera any help suggestions greatly appreciated.

EZ

[incredablehefey]

Mine has the same issues... I tried tuning the disconector to no avail. I'm waiting on stock glock parts to see if that will work.

[ez2b]

It's quite frustrating I knew there was a chance of this though with all the things I've read I still figured there should be some sort of easy solution but I guess it's looking like I might be wrong.


EZ

[osis32]

I've read multiple accounts of problems with after market trigger assemblies.

[ez2b]

Well changing out a trigger I guess would be a fairly cheap route question is a G22 trigger interchangeable with a g17 trigger

EZ

[JAE]

I've built both OEM and Lone Wolf. 9mm standard, 40 S&W, 9mm long slide. I can swap uppers between frames both OEM and LWD. I have no issues besides the original learning curve and break in.

Your problem sounds much more "gross" than any I experienced. I suggest you carefully go back over your assembly. Possibly take the lower to a LGS and compare with an OEM. I did this when I was first tuning mine and the LGS owner was very helpful. I made sure to spend some money with him for his time (ammo, targets and a mag).

[MosinVirus]

What I would do first and foremost is observe how the trigger works with the parts you have in the frame.

Take the slide off, and actuate your trigger by hand. As in, pull it forward to reset (the firing pin safety tab on the trigger bar is easy to push against to force the trigger to go forward). once the trigger resets, pull the trigger slowly and see how the end of the trigger bar moves, push the arm of connector bar inward, and see if the trigger bar moves up. Does it move up high enough? CAN the trigger at this point be pushed forward with normal amount of force, or is the trigger bar grinding on something?

If you don't have a Glock to compare to, this video may help to compare how the Glock parts work in a Glock frame.

[ez2b]

Thanks everybody yes I have a couple other Glocks laying around I have used as references also I watched videos.t he other slides do the same thing except they are 40 cal G22 this one is a g17

EZ

[ez2b]

I'm going to completely disassemble and reassemble and start over again thanks for all the suggestions everybody

EZ

[MosinVirus]

Thanks everybody yes I have a couple other Glocks laying around I have used as references also I watched videos.t he other slides do the same thing except they are 40 cal G22 this one is a g17

EZ

Armorers lock plate for the rear of the slide would help you see what is going on, btw.

It is shorter on the bottom, so you get to see the interaction of connector, striker and trigger bar better.

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-parts/slides/armorer-s-slide-cover-plate-prod26140.aspx

[ez2b]

^^^^cool thanks

EZ

[MosinVirus]

np. Just make sure you don't fire the gun with it in. If anything (gasses) blows back, it will go right in your face.