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Is this beavertail blendable?

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  • #16
    pklin1297
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2006
    • 3287

    I tried the fit on two of my 1911builder frames before, a government stainless and a commander bobtail stainless, to see which frame I wanted to use, and both had more "meat" to blend with than that after using the Wilson beavertail jig... It is however not beneath 1911builder to sell frames that have tangs that were over cut, just that usually it is the top of the tangs that were over cut. This is also why I like their standard checkered stainless government frames that do not have the frame tangs cut at all...

    It is of course up to you, but I would heed Mosin's advice to go with a .220 grip safety. I would not be happy if I finished the work on the rest of the gun and then come back to a less than ideal beavertail fitting situation.
    NRA Member, CAPRC Member

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    • #17
      WTForce
      Member
      • Jan 2013
      • 156

      Originally posted by pklin1297
      I tried the fit on two of my 1911builder frames before, a government stainless and a commander bobtail stainless, to see which frame I wanted to use, and both had more "meat" to blend with than that after using the Wilson beavertail jig... It is however not beneath 1911builder to sell frames that have tangs that were over cut, just that usually it is the top of the tangs that were over cut. This is also why I like their standard checkered stainless government frames that do not have the frame tangs cut at all...

      It is of course up to you, but I would heed Mosin's advice to go with a .220 grip safety. I would not be happy if I finished the work on the rest of the gun and then come back to a less than ideal beavertail fitting situation.
      Yeah but the only thing left to do to the beavertail is blending to the frame. Everything on the frame is pretty much done except for the plungertube. I'm not in a hurry to finish this gun so I can take my time on deciding what to do with the beavertail.

      I only bought a 1911builders frame because they had a sale. I'll probably buy frames from a more consistent vendor if I ever decide to build a second 1911. Their pictures aren't very accurate either they show frames with full tangs and send frames with cut ones.
      Last edited by WTForce; 10-06-2016, 5:34 PM.

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      • #18
        MosinVirus
        Happily Infected
        CGN Contributor
        • Sep 2013
        • 5282

        Originally posted by WTForce
        Yeah but the only thing left to do to the beavertail is blending to the frame. Everything on the frame is pretty much done except for the plungertube. I'm not in a hurry to finish this gun so I can take my time on deciding what to do with the beavertail.

        I only bought a 1911builders frame because they had a sale. I'll probably buy frames from a more consistent vendor if I ever decide to build a second 1911. Their pictures aren't very accurate either they show frames with full tangs and send frames with cut ones.
        Well, sounds like you have decided to stick with this one. Blend it and get it over with. Believe me, I am not being a jack*****. I use this philosophy from time to time, when I end up in a situation where I could potentially change direction, but want to see if I can carry on. I usually push through, even if I think I may need to re-buy a part in the worst case outcome.
        Hobbies: bla, bla, bla... Bought a Mosin Nagant... Guns, Guns, Guns...

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        • #19
          pklin1297
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 3287

          So far, other than problematic officer frames, I've purchased five other frames in various configurations from 1911builders and they've been the most consistent frames when compared to others I've returned from several other manufacturers, other than frames limited-10 but those are 2011 frames.

          Good luck with the install.
          NRA Member, CAPRC Member

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