80% complete lower that needs anodizing

[veeklog]

I just completed a 80% lower receiver that I had engraved by John Brace (aka Braceman) that needs to be anodized. I attempted to contact Victor at U.S. Anodizing, but he said he is busy till October 1st. Anyone know where I can send it get Anodized either in the OC or better yet San Diego? I am leaving for three weeks, but can send it out when I get back in mid September.

[FIREBALL_BRIAN]

Google anodizing shop

[God Bless America]

DIY.

Not that hard.

[Kmai24]

http://www.elitetacticalcoating.com

Located in Oceanside..Got a few on my 1911's cerakoted from them and im a happy customer. There's other coatings offered so give them a call or email.

[swell1957]

We do Cerakote in North County San Diego if you cant find an FFL anodizer. Turn-around is a day or two for a lower (in-stock color).

[Devilmonkey89]

http://www.elitetacticalcoating.com

Located in Oceanside..Got a few on my 1911's cerakoted from them and im a happy customer. There's other coatings offered so give them a call or email.

1-2 week turn around isn't too bad if time isn't a factor. Prices seem very reasonable! I might send them a lower and upper set to get cerakote down the road.

[mtenenhaus]

don't mean to derail the thread but wondering if cerakote would be just as strong and rust resistant as anodizing? I am contemplating a similar task

[ar15barrels]

don't mean to derail the thread but wondering if cerakote would be just as strong and rust resistant as anodizing?

From a metal protection and surface hardness improvement standpoint, anodizing completely trumps ceracoat.
Anodizing gets inside all the holes.
You won't get ceracoat into every hole as it is sprayed on.
Ceracoat also builds up more than anodizing, which can cause fit problems with tightly fitted parts.

Where ceracoat shines is the ability to make custom colors.

If you want protection, anodizing is the way to go.
If you want a specific color, ceracoat is the way to go.
If you want both, anodize and then ceracoat the outside.

[mtenenhaus]

thank you. you're always so thoughtful and helpful. i really appreciate it.

[Junkie]

+1 on anodizing being way more durable, at least if done right. There are also lighter duty anodized finishes, you need to make sure it's Type III if I remember right.

On the other hand, you mention rust... it's aluminum, it doesn't rust. 6061 and 7075 are both fairly corrosion resistant. An advantage to hard anodizing is that the FCG pivot pin holes (and any other wear locations) should last longer.

[Jimbo12]

From a metal protection and surface hardness improvement standpoint, anodizing completely trumps ceracoat.
Anodizing gets inside all the holes.
You won't get ceracoat into every hole as it is sprayed on.
Ceracoat also builds up more than anodizing, which can cause fit problems with tightly fitted parts.

Where ceracoat shines is the ability to make custom colors.

If you want protection, anodizing is the way to go.
If you want a specific color, ceracoat is the way to go.
If you want both, anodize and then ceracoat the outside.

Great info, I've been tossing around which would better protect. I had my wife's Springfield XD ceracoated and it's held up, but when I build my 80%er, I think I'll lean towards anodizing.