Polymer80, Spectre Frame

[igot105]

It's been 4 months since Polymer80 released their new full size frame designed to accept the Glock 17/22 barrel/slide. I've seen a couple of videos explaining options to finish the polymer frame, and now thinking of ordering a frame to complete it myself. Although I own and disassembled many Glocks, I'd hate to invest what could end up equaling the cost of a new Glock and be disappointed with the end result. I thought I'd first ask for the following feedback from those of you that have had a change to finish the Polymer80 Spectre frame.

1. Did you use OEM frame parts, or aftermarket parts, e.g., lone wolf?
2. Did you have fitting issues, and if you called the company for technical assistance were they helpful?
3. How did the gun function after all the frame parts were installed?
4. After shooting the gun, are you noticing any wear on the rear "polymer" slide rail? I realize the locking block is metal, but metal rubbing on polymer won't wear very well .... even though other manufacturers frame are made the same way.

Also, I was advised Polymer80 is in the process of modifying their Spectre frame due to some technical issue associated with their early release of their frame. Has anyone had a problem and know what this is about?

[pklin1297]

I have a Spectre frame and after receiving it, I'm really not sure if I want to actually build it...

The ergonomics of the grip is worse than actual Glock, and the resulting rails based on instructions and videos just does not look convincingly stiff or strong enough. If I do build it, I have plans to use it only with my Advantage Arm's 22 conversion.

If you want to build 80% pistol, go with 1911 (lots of knowledge and skills needed), or the Matrix Precision P228 (some knowledge and skills needed, but much easier than the 1911 to put together).

[shawnmitchell]

Hey guys here's my build I did with Dremel and hand drill. I have two slide assemblies, the 17 pictured and a 22. The 17 functions perfectly. With the 22 if I dry fire and hold the trigger to the rear and rack the slide, the slide stops on the way back forward and the trigger doesn't reset until I release the trigger. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

[shawnmitchell]

So I fixed my own problem, figured I'd post it here just in case anyone else had a similar issue. Turns out the firing pin safety spring wasn't properly seated in the firing pin safety, resulting in too much downward pressure on the firing pin safety which in turn blocked the slide from moving forward into battery at the point where the firing pin safety met the trigger bar.

I removed the slide cap, removed the firing pin and extractor groups from the rear of the slide, removed the extractor and finally the firing pin safety and spring. I made sure the firing pin safety spring was seated properly in the cup in the firing pin safety and reassembled everything. Everything works smoothly together now manually cycling the action.

[Awesomesauce]

Shawn,
Thanks for the information about the assembly issues. it seems like most of the issues that have come up are either improperly assembled parts (ie your issue) or folks getting the wrong generation LPKs (they fit but dont function quite right).

OP, thanks for posting this thread, hopefully more builders will chime in with their lessons learned.

[echo6cavedog]

I finished my build with a Lonewolf LPK. I was getting very light resets. I only loaded 3 rounds at a time and would get double and triple tap during test firing (not to mention the stares). I did the credit card shim trick and replaced the Lonewolf 3.5# connector with an OEM Glock 5.5# connector. What a difference that made.

[saki302]

How are the rear rails holding up under use?

-Dave

[JAE]

It's been 4 months since Polymer80 released their new full size frame designed to accept the Glock 17/22 barrel/slide. I've seen a couple of videos explaining options to finish the polymer frame, and now thinking of ordering a frame to complete it myself. Although I own and disassembled many Glocks, I'd hate to invest what could end up equaling the cost of a new Glock and be disappointed with the end result. I thought I'd first ask for the following feedback from those of you that have had a change to finish the Polymer80 Spectre frame.

1. Did you use OEM frame parts, or aftermarket parts, e.g., lone wolf?
2. Did you have fitting issues, and if you called the company for technical assistance were they helpful?
3. How did the gun function after all the frame parts were installed?
4. After shooting the gun, are you noticing any wear on the rear "polymer" slide rail? I realize the locking block is metal, but metal rubbing on polymer won't wear very well .... even though other manufacturers frame are made the same way.

Also, I was advised Polymer80 is in the process of modifying their Spectre frame due to some technical issue associated with their early release of their frame. Has anyone had a problem and know what this is about?

1) I used all Glock OEM except for a Lone Wolf G17 slide in stainless. Glock OEM slide internals.
2) No fitting issues particularly. There is a firing pin slide bushing called out on parts diagrams that I did not use (of two bushings I would up with). Some diagrams had it shown some did not. I used what fit. This was my first attempt at anything Glock at all I probably mis-ordered. This was pre-order land time frame kits were not plentiful so I ordered piece by piece and got some extra bits I'm sure I goofed. At least I got all the pieces. Better to have more than less, right?
3) A little tuning of the rear rails with a file was needed. I went tight on it. It's still a little stiff. On the bench it works great. In the field I fired a couple rounds and had a failure to go completely into battery on second round. I then took it to a LGS and compared to an OEM and the owner/smith seemed to approve and said he could not tell the difference. After that I tried one full magazine and had some FTF issues. That's the only testing I've done so far. The issue seems that it's very stiff while going into battery with the trigger depressed but a lot better with it released. Fitment between the disconnect bar and slide is very tight and after disassembling, inspecting, reassembling I got the same thing. I double checked my order to ensure they are all G17 parts. I filed down the top of the disconnect bar just a little and it's helped but not perfect. All of this on the bench. I then talked to the folks at Lone Wolf and basically they said to fire a box of 50 124 grain through it and check back. They indicated it's common on OEM Glocks to have some FTF's and such as the gun breaks in. So that's where I'm at now. Need to go lube the **** out of it and get some range time.
4) I haven't run the gun enough to give a good answer. So far so good. The rear is just a guide and side by side with an OEM it looks good. I frankly don't expect it to last as long as an OEM but that's just a guess.

No idea if they are revising the frame. Despite my functional issues I'm pretty impressed overall and have a second one coming. This will provide the opportunity for a comparison. On this one, due to the G17 slide being out of stock and back ordered for months, I've decided to run with a Lone Wolf G24S full slide and 9mm conversion barrel. This will allow me to simply drop in a barrel and go shoot .40 S&W if I wish. The total price OTD was $700 for everything from Lone Wolf. They called me about my order (at my request), we changed some stuff over the phone (their input and what they had in stock) and it shipped the next day. Their customer service is excellent they have my business. I suggest you give them a call.

[f308gt4]

Is it possible to cut down the grip on the Polymer80 frame (and still have it look nice) to make it accept Glock 19 magazines?

I have tons of Glock 19 mags, and no 17 mags. It would be nice to have magazine compatibility with what I have. I don't know if they will be coming out with a Glock 19 version, and cutting the grip may be one way to work around it.

[JAE]

Is it possible to cut down the grip on the Polymer80 frame (and still have it look nice) to make it accept Glock 19 magazines?

I have tons of Glock 19 mags, and no 17 mags. It would be nice to have magazine compatibility with what I have. I don't know if they will be coming out with a Glock 19 version, and cutting the grip may be one way to work around it.

Made me look: http://forum.pafoa.org/showthread.php?t=209739

Looks like the answer is "yes they will work". Got my mag from a LGS. OEM package said "G17/19 Gen3".

[f308gt4]

I think you may have misunderstood my question. I thought that Glock 19 mags are too short for the 17. That's why you would need to cut down the grip for them to work.

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f56/will-glock-19-magazine-fit-into-glock-17-a-71577/

https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=5&f=13&t=76044

[Cody805]

I just want someone to run 5k rounds of ammo through a build and post pictures and a report before I build one. They look cool but how do they hold up to the abuse and wear and tear?

[JAE]

I think you may have misunderstood my question. I thought that Glock 19 mags are too short for the 17. That's why you would need to cut down the grip for them to work.

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f56/will-glock-19-magazine-fit-into-glock-17-a-71577/

https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.h...5&f=13&t=76044

OK. Try this maybe it's clearer: http://eu.glock.com/english/magazines_compat.htm

[Kayo Kelly]

I purchased all my parts from Glockstore in San Diego. I upgraded the trigger to their Pyramid Trigger. I finished the handle using a Dremmil and file. For the first 100 rounds it fired great. Then I experienced failure to feed - failure to extract. I took it to Glockstore and we test fired it. It fired awesome. They told me it was the best one they had seen thus far. I took it back to the range and had intermitant cycling issues again. Im thinking a tungsten guide rod with a stronger spring. But to be honest Im tired of putting money into it.

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[Kayo Kelly]

Well my answer came from Spectre:

Kenneth,

*

My first move to resolve this situation would be to shim you trigger assembly inside the frame and prevent it from rocking in place. Some builds do this more than others I am going to attach a photograph of where that shim should be. Please let me know if this helps any.

*

David Borges Jr.

Customer Support

1-800-517-1243

3111 North Deer Run Road

Carson City, NV 89701





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