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  • Don@Tahoe
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2012
    • 1104

    Porting question

    I'm not a gunsmith just a home garage hobby guy with a lathe and mill, my question, is porting a rifle barrel as simple as indexing, drilling, and countersinking, or does the bore have to be enlarged and rifling removed? Also, can you run the bit through both sides of the barrel or do the holes have to be drilled one at a time?
  • #2
    liber
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2014
    • 1868

    Originally posted by Don@Tahoe
    I'm not a gunsmith just a home garage hobby guy with a lathe and mill, my question, is porting a rifle barrel as simple as indexing, drilling, and countersinking, or does the bore have to be enlarged and rifling removed? Also, can you run the bit through both sides of the barrel or do the holes have to be drilled one at a time?
    You are limited on the amount of rifling you can take away, so the caliber needs to be fairly close to what you start from.

    Otherwise you will need to rifle the barrel again, and most people don't have the means to do so.
    sigpic
    --------- liber --------

    From my cold dead end mill...

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    • #3
      Don@Tahoe
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2012
      • 1104

      I'm talking about drilling the end of the barrel, not adding a separate piece, so I don't touch the rifling except for the drill holes?

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      • #4
        kcstott
        I need a LIFE!!
        • Nov 2011
        • 11796

        Originally posted by Don@Tahoe
        I'm not a gunsmith just a home garage hobby guy with a lathe and mill, my question, is porting a rifle barrel as simple as indexing, drilling, and countersinking, or does the bore have to be enlarged and rifling removed? Also, can you run the bit through both sides of the barrel or do the holes have to be drilled one at a time?
        It can be but I don't recommend it.

        This is how i do it but I recommend against it and would rather see a muzzle break installed.

        Lay out your holes, center drill, drill, and ream for a nice looking finish. counter sink the holes more or less depending on the look you want.
        Then the barrel should be back bored about .050" larger then groove diameter. This requires a reamer of proper size and of odd number of flutes for best results. This also removes any burrs created during drilling. Chamfer the muzzle and call it good.

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        • #5
          Don@Tahoe
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2012
          • 1104

          You recommend a brake instead?

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          • #6
            kcstott
            I need a LIFE!!
            • Nov 2011
            • 11796

            Originally posted by Don@Tahoe
            You recommend a brake instead?
            Yep. Far easier to install a brake and be able to install any brake you like in the future or remove all together. Threading a barrel is far easier.
            Last edited by kcstott; 07-07-2016, 11:10 AM.

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            • #7
              Don@Tahoe
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2012
              • 1104

              Thank you, I'll make a brake...

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