touch up parkerizing

[tommyid1]

Hey i scratched a bit of the parkerizing on my sai m1a standard. anything i can do to touch up the parkerizing short of getting the whole barrel reparked?

[maxicon]

I don't think anyone does touch-up parking, due to the process. I used cold blue on a scratch in a parkerized finish, and it works fine. You'll always know it's there, but it won't be obvious, and it'll protect the bare metal.

I'm not much of a worrier about wear on guns, though. All my favorite guns show signs of use.

[tommyid1]

yeah same its a scratch along the length of the barrel and i think it just looks hideous. its about 3 inches long.

[Ledbetter]

Brownell's oxpho-blue.

[sfbadger]

If you try amd touch it up you could actually make it look worse. Either strip it down and have the barrel/receiver blasted and reparked, or live with it.

For now, just to protect the bare metal, try using a gun-blue pen, (looks kinda like a Sharpie), and just dab it on.

[bigbob76]

Once again I see the value of having my location showing in the upper right hand corner of all of my postings. One of us might be close enough to offer to help you with that. There is a product used cold and diluted for Parkerizing. Some gunsmiths use it for everything while some use it as what is called post black treatment. I have read that different parts on a gun can be different metal composition and come out different shades of black when using the heated solutions so they add this process at the end to get everything the same shade of black. I'm getting ready to try it myself. I'm thinking maybe building a tinkers dam around a scratch with play doh or silicon to hold a little puddle of the cold solution. If I get around to doing it (I already have some of the product on order) I'll post the results.

[glockwise2000]

Is there anybody who knows someone who parkerize locally? I'm in San Fernando Valley area. I have an LMT and scratched the lower badly. I don't want to send it through mail to be parkerized. Is LMT parkerized or Duracoated?

[bigbob76]

I'm new to the the evil black rifle world. Aside from the AK's I'm putting together I've only assembled one AR but I was thinking the lower receiver on an AR is aluminum and therefore cannot be Parkerized. Is this correct? If it is aluminum or an alloy thereof it is probably anodized I think.

[drawn]

Hard anodized Aluminum, Yes. The OP is speaking about an M1A=carbon steel.

[Sky_DiveR]

Is there anybody who knows someone who parkerize locally? I'm in San Fernando Valley area. I have an LMT and scratched the lower badly. I don't want to send it through mail to be parkerized. Is LMT parkerized or Duracoated?

You can always rough up the finish on the lower and use Aluma-hyde II to paint the whole thing. You can buy it from Brownells.com. You can even change the color if you like. Desert Tan, coyote, or OD Green tickle your fancy? Brownells has a series on You-Tube that shows you how to best use it and other items they sell.

I tried to touch-up/match the color on my lower with Aluma-Hyde II and all it did was make it worse. Don't waste time spray the whole thing.

The OP can do the same thing if the Blue-pen doesn't work or you don't like how it turned out. I did the same thing to cover up my stainless steel rifle that I hunt with. Didn't change point-of-aim or anything.

[bigbob76]

You can always rough up the finish on the lower and use Aluma-hyde II to paint the whole thing. You can buy it from Brownells.com. You can even change the color if you like. Desert Tan, coyote, or OD Green tickle your fancy? Brownells has a series on You-Tube that shows you how to best use it and other items they sell.

I tried to touch-up/match the color on my lower with Aluma-Hyde II and all it did was make it worse. Don't waste time spray the whole thing.

The OP can do the same thing if the Blue-pen doesn't work or you don't like how it turned out. I did the same thing to cover up my stainless steel rifle that I hunt with. Didn't change point-of-aim or anything.

Does it come in a spray can? If not is there a decent product to use from a rattle can? Here's a question for Drawn; if I'm going to paint directly after Parkerizing do I still have to do the oil bath after parking and then degrease it or just straight to paint?

[aplinker]

Does it come in a spray can? If not is there a decent product to use from a rattle can? Here's a question for Drawn; if I'm going to paint directly after Parkerizing do I still have to do the oil bath after parking and then degrease it or just straight to paint?

If you're painting over park, you would NOT oil it between. Parkerizing holds oil, which is why it's a useful finish.

If you're painting, the park holds the paint.

[Sky_DiveR]

Does it come in a spray can? If not is there a decent product to use from a rattle can? Here's a question for Drawn; if I'm going to paint directly after Parkerizing do I still have to do the oil bath after parking and then degrease it or just straight to paint?

Yep! Aluma-Hyde comes in a spray (rattle) can and liquid paint can (if you airbrush, I guess). Check out Brownells products on YouTube to get an idea of what I'm talking about. Could also use Dura-Coat if you have a spare oven. Also check out Brownells website (www.brownells.com) for other paints that you could use.

BTW: Lacquer Stik works great on highlighting markings on guns. Comes in different colors too!