Need Input From 1911 Builders....

[JAE]

So I've built some 80% AR's from scratch and had a great deal of fun doing it. Time to crank it up a notch and do a 1911. I just acquired a mini mill and some tooling (like the one little machine shop sells). So I have some questions and would love any input folks might have:
-Any tricks to using this little mill? Looks just big enough....
-Best jig for this project?
-Best tooling package?
-Preferable to do a stainless, 4140 steel or aluminum frame first? Ultimately I want a stainless model any particularly crazy stuff to look out for?
-I'm thinking to get a frame and slide first then add parts. Any reason not to? Package deals a really good value?
-Anything else anybody cares to add.....

It's been a good 15 years since I had regular access to mills/lathes so I'm working on a 80% AR now to get back in the swing. I'll likely find some other small stuff to make to sharpen back up. Really looking forward to a 1911 and pre ordered the Spectre....

I've enjoyed watching folks post their stuff and have no illusions mine will even hold a candle to theirs BUT in exchange for constructive advice I promise to post my progress. TIA.

[ar15barrels]

A jig is not necessary if you have a milling machine.
Just clamp the frame to the table, zero your knobs and make your holes and frame rail cuts where they belong.

Jigs are for people without a milling machine...

[JAE]

I hear what your saying. The little thing doesn't have DRO's though and that setup would cost more than the jig by a bit. That and it is kind of labor intensive to clamp it down.... and I'm a little chicken. Want it to turn out right. Worried about squishing the frame or getting the hammer hole in the wrong spot. So the $100 jig might be a good investment. I know the bed runs right with a jig I can set it and go.

Any other input? I'm looking at the stainless 5" kit from 1911builders and would like to get some input before I drop $1,050.00 on a kit....

[ke6guj]

there is no need for DRO. as Randall said, zero your knobs and get to counting.

[ar15barrels]

I hear what your saying. The little thing doesn't have DRO's though and that setup would cost more than the jig by a bit.

Money spent on the DRO is useful FAR beyond any amount of jigs you could buy, but the handwheels will do it they are accurate.
Stick a magnetic base on the table with an indicator and check the table travel compared to the handwheels.

[JAE]

What I'm hearing is a product like this is useless with a mill: http://1911builders.com/collections/...inus-frame-kit

That about the size of it?

[shafferds]

Not at all. That holds the frame and with the proper cutter and measurements after decking the frame make your cuts using the mill with key cutter. Go slow and it should turn out fine. That jig is also used to drill the hammer and sear holes.

[ar15barrels]

What I'm hearing is a product like this is useless with a mill: http://1911builders.com/collections/...inus-frame-kit

It's not "useless", but it's not very useful, especially on a mini mill.
If your mill does not have room for that fixture to stand up and still get a keyway cutter into the spindle, that fixture would only help with the pin holes.
The pin holes are super easy without the fixture when you have the frame on a mill.

[BDJ]

all the comments about not needing the fixture are absolutely true but my opinion is, that it is worth the money.

I have a 3 axis CNC and years of machining experience and I think the purchase of that fixture is worth the money for a couple reasons...

Its holds the frame deck/rails parallel to the cutter, so there is no fiddling around with making sure the frame was clamped square to the table or scuffing the frame with the clamps. You also can cut the frame rails without having to flip and re-zero again or square your frame back up. Also if you buy a frame without the barrel seat cut you will most definitely need this fixture to make that cut on the mill.

If you are new to the mill and don't want to toy around with fixturing your frame multiple ways to get the job done, that jig will make things a lot easier for you.

[ar15barrels]

Its holds the frame deck/rails parallel to the cutter, so there is no fiddling around with making sure the frame was clamped square to the table or scuffing the frame with the clamps.

He has a mini mill.
He is not going to have room to mount a vise and then put the fixture in the vise and then put a drill chuck in the spindle and then put a drill bit in the spindle and then clear the fixture to actually drill holes.

He is going to have to clamp either the receiver or the receiver inside the fixture on the table and tram it in no matter what.
If his machine were bigger and he kept a milling vise on the table that was all trammed square, then I would agree more with the value of a fixture.

[BDJ]

You are right, I agree.

[JAE]

Thanks for the input.

Actually there's enough room to fit the vise and an entire 80% Arms Easy Jig with spacer and router plate in there. Plus at least a couple inches to spare. You do run out of room with a drill bit when using the jig and drill block. That's where you have to lose the vise and clamp it direct to the table. I just did this because as a "warm up exercise" I got going on some reject lowers I was given to practice on. Started with the jig because that's what I'm really familiar with and started removing pieces as I went. At the end was taking datum points and freehanding out with calipers going off prints. Yes DRO's will be huge but one piece at a time it's not like I won the lotto or anything.

I'll pick up the holding jig just because it will be a big time saver. For me it's worth the money instead of spending a lot of time in setup. With the frame holder I'll just tram the fixture and go. Also I won't be worried about tweaking the frame clamping it down. I've been looking all over the internet at guys doing this with a mini mill and have seen some ...... interesting clamping methods.

Just need to warm back up. Last time I used a mill was when I sailed in the Merchant Marine 15 years ago. All that stuff was big, old and all manual. You needed something at sea you made it. Spares? Nope. Fab it up. Besides that industrial stuff is one off. Your lucky to have prints at all.

Anybody have input on frame types? Suggestions for first build? All the same? Looking to start accumulating parts it appears they come in and out of stock fairly quickly depending on what you want.

[MosinVirus]

Go with 1911 builders frames. They are great. The decks and dust covers are higher so you will need to bring them into spec.

[JAE]

Go with 1911 builders frames. They are great. The decks and dust covers are higher so you will need to bring them into spec.

Awesome. Thank you!