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Issue with rear sight demilling, help?
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Issue with rear sight demilling, help?
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When using heat it smoked like it was well oiled but I'll give it another try.
There was no mention of a barrel pin in the ad, but low and behold, there appears to be one included in a separate ziplock bag.
Also, most all of the parts looked appropriately old but unused.
The only evidence of any part of it being fired was the light soot at the barrel tip attachment and itself was loose of any carbon buildup and still had oil on the threads.
I assume it was only test firing a few rounds.
The bolt, carrier, gas piston, dust cover, return spring, front and rear trunnions, trigger group, and under-folder assembly all seem untouched by anyone except the one who test fired it, the one who demilled it to BATFE specifications, the one who packaged it, and father time.Comment
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I'm having an issue removing the rear sight from the barrel stub
Are you talking about the pin that holds the barrel in the trunion?

Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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OK
I found a better pic - or so I thinkRule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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I would try a repeat of Heat and Cool to see if the expansion/ contraction of the parts helps break the bond... but if the hole was undersized or the pin was oversized, it could still be a bear...
For the cooling part, a dish of Kroil would be my choice... Kroil seems to do a great job working into those small spaces...
This might sound stupid, but can you chuck up a small diamond dremel bit into a drill press and grind out the first few 32'ds and then try punch or press again?
I was helping a friend on a project and a drill bit hard work hardened a piece and all the bits were then not biting... a dremel bit in a drill press ground off the surface hardened work surface and we were able to drill...
my hope by removing a few 32'nds would be to have a work area where a punch was less likely to slip and to see if the pin is bent / changes some direction inside of the blockRule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)
Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)Comment
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That's the bugger right there!
That one tiny little pin is kicking my back side.
I heated it until it started smoking the oil but not enough to change color in hopes of protecting the parts hardness level.
The last thing I want to do is bend or break the rear sight.
I like the look of the silver and black one posted, but only my lower and barrel will be "in the raw".
Is it something like parkerizing that they they come with stock?
Now that I'm thinking of it, the bolt carrier shows a little paint over-spray on the shaft of the gas piston.Last edited by archangel2003; 10-24-2015, 11:44 AM.Comment
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If one were to parkerize, would it be coated before it was assembled or after?Comment
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Nope, the pin looks untouched except for the sides, not so much as a mark on either end.
I tried to put a center punch mark in the pin to drill it but all it did was dull the punch and not so much as leave a scratch on the surface.
The repeated heating and cooling got it moving although I did put a small ding on the side of the sight base, and a few more impressive dings where the 18mm open ended wrench slipped over the barrel when I hammered the sight base off the barrel.
It's all apart and the new barrel is scheduled to be delivered on monday.
I also ordered the correct 3 piece weld together lower from the flat spot.
Of the 3 that I already had from my first flat spot order, one bottom and one side died together painfully in my first attempt to weld with gas.
The other 2 came out well (MIG welded, 1/2 second pulses every 1/2 inch alternating sides with enough time to cool so as not to warp) but I cut the side of the second one open to have better access to the fire control group for fabrication/experimentation.
The third one lacks the proper side holes for the AK-63D under-folder parts kit that I finally went with so I'll save it for later.
One thing I found out is that the weld together lowers are 1.5mm thick and the stock rear under-folder trunnion is made to fit the 1mm top rails so it will not fit them, but as luck would have it, I did order the weld together rear trunnion (silver soldered together instead of welded) and it just happens to not only have the correct holes for the AK-63D under-folder, but I even assembled the right and left sides on their perspective sides, so not reversed.
I decided to copy the original FCG function (semi auto of-course) for this one and will build it all original, but think I will try to fit in an AR-15 trigger and hammer assembly in the third one.
Thank you all for the help and I'm sure I'll have more than a couple questions before it is finished.Last edited by archangel2003; 10-24-2015, 11:34 PM.Comment
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