Fitting a Glock Match Barrel

[CaliF1]

I've decided i'm going to attempt to fit a match barrel (non drop-in) on my G22. I've tinkered with various parts of my different firearms for years now but this will be the most advanced "gunsmithing" i've done.

From what I understand, the main parts where I will need to focus on removing material will be be on the front of the hood and on the base/floor of feed ramp lug. I've got some India stone files and some Hard Arkansas stones on their way already (arkansas more for trigger jobs though), but do you suggest anything else? Is the effort and difficulty not worth it? I know some of you guys have done this before, so any pointers and advice are appreciated. Thanks.

[hermosabeach]

No advice as I have not done this task.

With metal working, dykem is a paint on blue that is great for marking parts for machining.

If you add some onto a part, when you run the action you will see where the metal makes contact by the markings on the dykem.

This allows you to remove the final few thousandths as you can see where the parts are making contact.

[ar15barrels]

Fitting a Glock Match Barrel

Fit the hood length (breech face) and hood width for a free lockup of the barrel to the slide off of the frame.
Then the chamber gets reamed to final depth according to the finalized hood length.
Then put the slide on the frame and clearance the lower cam surface where the barrel is held in lockup.

I use a surface grinder for most of this work and then stones for final polish.

[hermosabeach]

http://www.drillspot.com/products/506828/dykem_83307_hi_spot_blue_layout_fluid?CAWELAID=1549292388&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=520008640000681263&cadevice=m&gclid=CNfQorTghMcCFZKGfgodDNIJnQ

[CaliF1]

Fit the hood length (breech face) and hood width for a free lockup of the barrel to the slide off of the frame.
Then the chamber gets reamed to final depth according to the finalized hood length.
Then put the slide on the frame and clearance the lower cam surface where the barrel is held in lockup.

I use a surface grinder for most of this work and then stones for final polish.

Hi guys. Thanks for the quick responses. I'll be sure to have some dykem on hand for the fitting.

ar15barrels thank you for your advice. My understanding was that there would be no reaming required on the full match fit Bar-Sto barrels for Glocks. However I assume you have experience with this. I don't have access to a lathe and in the event that some final reaming is required can quality work be achieved by using a reamer by hand with tap handle?

Video below shows a rep the owner from Bar-Sto talking about the difference in the drop in and full match fit barrels and where the extra material is. Again, i'm not looking to do a drop in so I don't mind having to do some finally chamber reaming but the information in the video lead me to believe it wouldn't be necessary.

[ar15barrels]

ar15barrels thank you for your advice. My understanding was that there would be no reaming required on the full match fit Bar-Sto barrels for Glocks. However I assume you have experience with this. I don't have access to a lathe and in the event that some final reaming is required can quality work be achieved by using a reamer by hand with tap handle?

Video below shows a rep from Bar-Sto talking about the difference in the drop in and full match fit barrels and where the extra material is. Again, i'm not looking to do a drop in so I don't mind having to do some finally chamber reaming but the information in the video lead me to believe it wouldn't be necessary.

That's not a "rep" of Barsto.
That's Irv Stone, the owner of Barsto.
He took over for his dad who started the company.

I didn't realize that Irv says to fit the front on his barrels.
It's more difficult (by hand) to remove length in front and keep the shoulder square for a good lockup.
Thats why I choose to fit the rear of the hood, just like when you do a 1911.
Fitting the front would negate the need for reaming if Barsto supplies the barrels reamed to final headspace.

When you fit from the rear, you may or may not need to chamber the barrel deeper depending on how much metal you needed to remove to get the barrel to fit the slide and on how much chamber depth you want.

For example, if the barrel were to come reamed to absolute minimum chamber length and you need to remove 0.005" off the rear, you would need to ream an extra 0.005" to correct chamber length.
However, if the barrel were to come reamed in the middle of the length range and you had to remove 0.005" off the rear, you would not likely need to ream the chamber at all as the chamber would still be longer than minimum.

So go ahead and take all your measurements and determine where you want to take the length from after you know how much length you need to take and how that would effect the chamber length and what you want your chamber length to be.

[CaliF1]

That's not a "rep" of Barsto.
That's Irv Stone, the owner of Barsto.
He took over for his dad who started the company.

I didn't realize that Irv says to fit the front on his barrels.
It's more difficult (by hand) to remove length in front and keep the shoulder square for a good lockup.
Thats why I choose to fit the rear of the hood, just like when you do a 1911.
Fitting the front would negate the need for reaming if Barsto supplies the barrels reamed to final headspace.

When you fit from the rear, you may or may not need to chamber the barrel deeper depending on how much metal you needed to remove to get the barrel to fit the slide and on how much chamber depth you want.

For example, if the barrel were to come reamed to absolute minimum chamber length and you need to remove 0.005" off the rear, you would need to ream an extra 0.005" to correct chamber length.
However, if the barrel were to come reamed in the middle of the length range and you had to remove 0.005" off the rear, you would not likely need to ream the chamber at all as the chamber would still be longer than minimum.

So go ahead and take all your measurements and determine where you want to take the length from after you know how much length you need to take and how that would effect the chamber length and what you want your chamber length to be.

Thanks for pointing out my error with reference to Irv Stone. I corrected my post above.

Thank you for clarifying my questions regarding the reaming. Makes complete sense to me now. I guess I'll have to see what needs to be done after receiving the barrel. If reaming is required, do you suggest a gunsmith with lathe or can it be done by hand with the same results? I would prefer to do the whole thing myself but don't want to compromise it in any way.

[ar15barrels]

If reaming is required, do you suggest a gunsmith with lathe or can it be done by hand with the same results? I would prefer to do the whole thing myself but don't want to compromise it in any way.

It depends on how much you need to remove.
It's always going to be more consistent and repeatable to do it in a lathe.
If you only need to take less than 0.005", you could likely do that by hand with good results.

[CaliF1]

It depends on how much you need to remove.

It's always going to be more consistent and repeatable to do it in a lathe.

If you only need to take less than 0.005", you could likely do that by hand with good results.

Thanks for the advice.