1911 recoil spring and barrel link problem

[cpl_dan]

So im trying to finish my TM 1911 and having few problems:

1) I bought a recoil spring & guide and when I try to install it, seems to long and wont compress without the spring popping off. Maybe its the wrong size?


2) I am trying to test my barrel & slide trying to cock it back but when I insert my slide lock it seems to jam and wont move could my barrel link be to short?

[Escobar]

i think the barrel link could be binding it, EGW makes a quick fix link

[tophatjones]

1) How many coils does the spring have? What is the length of the spring?
2) That sounds like a possibility. Remove the link from the barrel and assemble the barrel/slide/frame/SS without the recoil spring and see if the barrel will lockup or hangup.

Btw, no one should switch links without knowing exactly what they're doing. Too short a link could lead to link breakage or prevent the barrel from locking up completely with the slide. Too long a link could cause the upper barrel lugs to batter, quickly increasing headspace, or perhaps it could cause the lower lug to shear off.

[cpl_dan]

it has 30 coils end to end

[tophatjones]

it has 30 coils end to end

Sounds about right. Can you measure the spring length and wire diameter?

[vlady]

The barrel link seems to be an issue with a few of these builds. I had to use a different link to get proper lock up. You will feel the proper lock up with the right link. Pay attention to make sure the barrel is fully locked up into the slide. Should be fine.

[tophatjones]

Apologies for the really dumb question coming: Are you compressing the spring as the second to last step in assembly (everything assembled, just need to press the plug and turn the bushing)? Or are you trying to compress the spring with the slide off the frame?

[cpl_dan]

trying to do it while off the frame

[tophatjones]

The barrel link seems to be an issue with a few of these builds. I had to use a different link to get proper lock up. You will feel the proper lock up with the right link. Pay attention to make sure the barrel is fully locked up into the slide. Should be fine.

Just wanted to add: whenever you change a link size, always check two things.

1) Is the link too short, thus preventing the barrel's lower lug from contacting the VIS (vertical impact surface)? Assemble the gun without recoil spring parts, and the slide stop pin inserted, but slide stop lever hanging down. Press the barrel back all the way and see if the slide stop lever swings freely.

2) Is the link too long and not clearing the barrel lugs from the slide lugs in time? Assemble the gun without recoil spring parts, insert a pencil into the barrel. Push the barrel back with your palm and lever the rear of the chamber with the pencil (press the pencil down at the muzzle). This sets the barrel as back and up as it'll go. Is there at least .010" clearance between top of chamber and bottom of slide lugs?

[tophatjones]

trying to do it while off the frame

OK, try it with the frame/slide assembled. It should be much easier.

[ar15barrels]

trying to do it while off the frame

You are doing it wrong.
The dustcover keeps the spring in place while you are compressing it on to the spring guide.

[kcstott]

You guy caught it. I was going to ask the same question, The 1911 is a wee bit different then what recent shooters are use to dealing with

This ain't a Glock guys, it has a very different order of assembly.

And what till you buy a bushing less bull barrel 1911 those are a joy to take apart.

[javaduke]

Seems like quite a few builders here have the barrel link issue. Try EGW link #2, it is just a tad shorter than the standard one.

[kcstott]

Seems like quite a few builders here have the barrel link issue. Try EGW link #2, it is just a tad shorter than the standard one.

Thats because no one is decking the frame

I'm just an anal retentive kinda guy but I would take and insert gage pins in every hole and measure locations to verify everything is good.

do this to the slide stop hole in relation to the top of the frame rails. and see if it's the correct distance

the distance from center of the slide stop hole to the top of the rails is .450 +.000" -.005"
the pin should be .200" -.002" so from outside of the pin to the top of the rails should be .545" -.550"

Now I'm going to make your head hurt.

if you take the tolerance of the pin into consideration which is +.000" -.002 and the tolerance of the hole which is .201" +.002" -.000" Since we have no feature control frame on these call outs on the prints you can just add or subtract the tolerance from the nominal sizes and see just how easily things can get out of control.

So the slide stop pin in its worst case could be on location -.001" to - .003" on location. So it's already under size to begin with. the design relys on the hole location tolerance to compensate.

Now If the Hole in the frame is off a touch this will create all kinds of issues.

So My recommendation is download the prints and check your parts before you make chips
Don't assume anything is correct.

[ar15barrels]

the distance from center of the slide stop hole to the top of the rails is .450 +.000" -.005"
the pin should be .200" -.002" so from outside of the pin to the top of the rails should be .545" -.550"

Now I'm going to make your head hurt.

You are already making my head hurt.
I can't get those 0.550 to 0.545 numbers to check out.

Using a -0.202" gauge pin which is a TIGHT fit into the frame:



I am getting this:



Which makes my math something like this:
0.345"
+.101" (0.202" / 2)
------
0.446"