SFBay: Does anyone know how to peen+fit a python hand?

[D.R.E.]

I have three pythons that all have short bottom hands (a diamondback too with the same issue, for good measure). They all seem like they could be peened + refit, but after reading the Kuhnhausen shop manual it looks "challenging."

Is there anyone in the area that has done this on a regular basis before and would be willing to help out?

Thanks!

[BillCA]

Peening Colt hands is "challenging". One needs the right tools for the job and a deft touch. The last gunsmith that I knew who could work on Colt wheelguns retired in '88. Since Colt is out of the wheelgun market, there's not that much call for gunsmiths to develop the talent.

[PKAY61]

I have a Python and have read the Kuhnhausen manual as well. While I do most of my own smithing, I would suggest you contact Colt and possibly send your Pythons to the factory for the job you want done. I believe they will tune the guns at no charge in addition.

I once was considering swapping a 6" bbl out for a 4" on a Python, and all the advice I received from knowledgeable gunsmiths said send it to the factory. Further, I sent one to the factory for refinishing. They did a masterful job in Royal Blue and tuned the gun for free.

[D.R.E.]

I've done that. I can't comment on the quality of the work since it's been 4 months and they haven't sent it back ;-)

On the other hand, while very slow, they only charged $85 to: (1) retime, (2) fix the barrel/cylinder gap, and (3) refit the hand.

Frank Glenn (Enos' bianchi pistolsmith) does very very very good work, but costs more. At the moment I don't have the money (e.g., I'm attempting to sell a bunch of guns in the private party sale calguns section).

For this case I only need to fix the fact that the bottom hand is short --- it seems easier than refitting. In the worst case, I mess it up and they have to replace the hand, which they might have done anyway.

For appropriate tools: is this just a flat metal block and a wedge headed chisel?

Dawson

I have a Python and have read the Kuhnhausen manual as well. While I do most of my own smithing, I would suggest you contact Colt and possibly send your Pythons to the factory for the job you want done. I believe they will tune the guns at no charge in addition.

I once was considering swapping a 6" bbl out for a 4" on a Python, and all the advice I received from knowledgeable gunsmiths said send it to the factory. Further, I sent one to the factory for refinishing. They did a masterful job in Royal Blue and tuned the gun for free.

[D.R.E.]

I have a Python and have read the Kuhnhausen manual as well. While I do most of my own smithing, I would suggest you contact Colt and possibly send your Pythons to the factory for the job you want done. I believe they will tune the guns at no charge in addition.

There's also the aspect that I'd like to be able to common repairs on my own pistols myself. One of my favorite things about glocks is that there's not a part on them that I can't replace myself. (S&W is nice too, since hand's are entirely drop in.)

[BillCA]

There's also the aspect that I'd like to be able to common repairs on my own pistols myself. One of my favorite things about glocks is that there's not a part on them that I can't replace myself. (S&W is nice too, since hand's are entirely drop in.)

Not really. MOST of the factory hands you get will have the proper nose angle on them. You still have to carefully inspect their engagement on the ratchet palls to ensure they don't dig in or bind. I found this out the hard way replacing the hand on a Smith. Sent it back to them and it came back with a new hand and new star properly configured for a mere $18.50.

[D.R.E.]

It's the shipping + time that gets to me. Plus I hate going to fedex.


Are there DVDs that show how to fit the hand? I assume the Jerry M DVD does?

Thanks for the correction!

Not really. MOST of the factory hands you get will have the proper nose angle on them. You still have to carefully inspect their engagement on the ratchet palls to ensure they don't dig in or bind. I found this out the hard way replacing the hand on a Smith. Sent it back to them and it came back with a new hand and new star properly configured for a mere $18.50.

[tzahoy]

Any idea why the hand is short? Is it worn or was it fitted improperly? If it were mine I'd start by buying a replacement:

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=197370A

I'd start by just replacing it and seeing if the new one works. Then you have extra parts that you can peen and refit for your others, or try peening the new one.

There's a lot of mystique about the Python action. I think it's largely unfounded and propagated by the relatively few pieces around compared to Smiths and Rugers. They're easy to take apart and put back together, they just work a little differently.

[D.R.E.]

Not sure. Three of my pythons have the same problem, so I assume it's just wear.


GB tends to be less expensive than numrich, but yeah I bought a couple of replacements. Now I just need to get the right hammer and benchblock

I agree that Pythons are easy to take apart and put back, but fitting new parts is a real pain. I have a tentative deal with Frank Glenn to drive out to AZ and have him show me how to fit all the different parts, but it's going to take at least three days. (He does great work; did all of Enos' bianchi cup revolvers and a bunch for Leatham.)

Any idea why the hand is short? Is it worn or was it fitted improperly? If it were mine I'd start by buying a replacement:

http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=197370A

I'd start by just replacing it and seeing if the new one works. Then you have extra parts that you can peen and refit for your others, or try peening the new one.

There's a lot of mystique about the Python action. I think it's largely unfounded and propagated by the relatively few pieces around compared to Smiths and Rugers. They're easy to take apart and put back together, they just work a little differently.

[tzahoy]

I don't remember needing a hammer or bench block to remove the hand, but it's been a while, but I suspect you can disassemble without. I'm pretty sure all the pins are slip fit in my Python. If you get stuck I'd peek at it for you, I'm Downtown. I bet you can do it though.

One tip if you're ordering from Numrich. I bought some parts the other day, but had a question so I called in. The first message I got was a promo code for free shipping if you order online. I asked my question, and then ordered online...

[D.R.E.]

Yeah, you don't need the block to remove the hand, but for peening. One problem w/ numrich is that so many things are out of stock...

I don't remember needing a hammer or bench block to remove the hand, but it's been a while, but I suspect you can disassemble without. I'm pretty sure all the pins are slip fit in my Python. If you get stuck I'd peek at it for you, I'm Downtown. I bet you can do it though.

One tip if you're ordering from Numrich. I bought some parts the other day, but had a question so I called in. The first message I got was a promo code for free shipping if you order online. I asked my question, and then ordered online...

[dfletcher]

The hand will slip right out - just lift the rebound lever off it and remove it by hand.

[D.R.E.]

The hand will slip right out - just lift the rebound lever off it and remove it by hand.

I know how to remove a hand. It is indeed easy. I don't seem to be writing clearly: you need a bench block to peen the hand --- i.e., put the hand on the bench block and whack it with a hammer to lengthen it.