Oal for tikka t3 lite

[ziconceo]

Just started loading 223 for the tikka before I get it out of jail but have a problem. I'm using 55gr fmjbt bullets and every reloading data source I have says a different oal.

Does anyone have one specific for the tikka? Mine has a 20 inch barrel 1:10 inch twist.

Any help would be awesome, thanks.

[mulyhuntr]

Each gun is different. You'll have to figure out what works in your gun and is most accurate in your gun.

[ziconceo]

Each gun is different. You'll have to figure out what works in your gun and is most accurate in your gun.

Yea that's true, okay then, what would be a good starting point?

[ExtremeX]

Yea that's true, okay then, what would be a good starting point?

Whatever it says in the load manual... start with the OAL from the manufacture of the bullet.

Or just seat it to the cannelure if you have one on the bullet.

You sound new at this... so I don't necessarily recommend chasing the lands, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to see at what OAL the bullet touches the lands just so you have an idea of what you are working with.

[ziconceo]

Whatever it says in the load manual... start with the OAL from the manufacture of the bullet.

Or just seat it to the cannelure if you have one on the bullet.

You sound new at this... so I don't necessarily recommend chasing the lands, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to see at what OAL the bullet touches the lands just so you have an idea of what you are working with.

My bullets do have a cannelure, I thought that was only for mil spec, it seems I am wrong haha. I was going off what was listed on my blc-2 gunpowder bottle (2.200) oal and my reloading book (2.300) oal so I went in the middle (2.25) oal.

[ExtremeX]

I think you might not be following me... Who manufactures the bullet, and or what is its part number?

When taking about individual components and looking for load data, its best to include that info so people can help you faster and with more accurate data..

For example. I load the Hornady #2267 55gr FMJBT w/c for my plinking ammo.
The Hornady load manual shows an OAL of 2.200" for that bullet.

Either way you are probably in the ballpark and it probably won’t make much of a difference either way, but reloading is all about the details so it’s good to be as detail oriented as possible.

With that said, it’s up to you if you want to follow what the manufacture says to do... But I wouldn't just pick some arbitrary COL unless you have a reason to do so.

[ziconceo]

This is all the info I have on them, wish I had a part number.

.223 55 RMR FMJ BT.

Bought them from rocky mountain reloading.

[ExtremeX]

I'm just curious but why use a plinking bullet on such a nice rifle? That bullet will never achieve the accuracy that rifle is capable of putting down.

Just as an example... here are some pictures of some loads I did years ago for my AR-15@ 100 yards. Both 55gr loaded with BL-C2, bulk loaded on a progressive with no match prep. #2267 FMJBT vs the #22274 Hornady V-Max/Z-Max

[ziconceo]

Wow that's quite a difference!!! I'm only shooting at 100 yards with this ammo. Any chance you could give me some tips on your "match prep" techniques?

Here is what I do to prep:

Tumble brass over night
De-prime and clean primer pocket
Sort brass by brand name
Check every other powder charge
Check oal after finishing

[Sleighter]

Tagged

[ExtremeX]

Wow that's quite a difference!!! I'm only shooting at 100 yards with this ammo. Any chance you could give me some tips on your "match prep" techniques?

Here is what I do to prep:

Tumble brass over night
De-prime and clean primer pocket
Sort brass by brand name
Check every other powder charge
Check oal after finishing

There is nothing special about the pictures above… the only real difference between the two loads is the bullet I seated into the case, and yes, it does make quite a difference.

Those pictures above were also shot at 100 yards… and as I mentioned, there was no “match prep”, but I do sort my cases by headstamp which is something I do regardless. I cranked this stuff out of my progressive. Everything was FL resized, trimmed, and loaded with a standard RCBS die set just like I would make any of my other autoloader rifle ammo.

A lot has changed in my reloading process since I took those pictures, I load primarily for a bolt action these days… neck size fire formed cases, trickle my charges by hand, use better dies for seating, generally on a single stage press… but it’s just an example of the difference just the bullet can make. That V-Max has a lot more potential for accuracy than a run of the mill plinking bullet.

End of the day it really just depends on application / what you want to do with the rifle. If you are just plinking steel plates at 100 yards then it probably doesn’t really matter which bullet you use, but few more cents per round puts you that much closer to something that can be considered premium match ammo which generally cost $15-$20 per 20 rounds.

[ar15barrels]

Yea that's true, okay then, what would be a good starting point?

0.025" shorter than the length that touches the lands is a good starting point.

[jetman624]

I don't think you are going to see a big difference in where you seat those bullets. I wouldn't worry too much abou tit.

Unfortunately, that barrel twist is probably too slow for the heavier VLD match bullets.

[TomReloaded]

Id be a bit surprised if you could load a 55gr long enough to jamb the rifle. I stopped measuring my 55gr and just load it right before the cannelure. My chamber is so crazy long a 55gr falls out before touching the lands.

[ziconceo]

Alright, well I loaded to the cannelure and and shot a few rounds. Found out the accuracy was horrid (1 inch at 35 yards) so I reloaded the same brass again after it was fireformed and it's a nice small cloverleaf now! Apparently, the tikka like brass that is consistent