How to you know if your annealing process is good or not.

[sammy]

I am going to start annealing my 308 brass and am going to test a couple different methods. Over and under annealing is a concern but I don't know how to test the brass to see if my method is working. What are you guys doing?

[Twystd1]

If you want a VERY good annealer with a warranty. This is the shiznit.

http://www.giraudtool.com/annealer1.htm

Or you can make your own.

Check Youtube for dozens of videos on this subject.

-T

[bubbala]

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

[JTROKS]

You'll need a propane torch that will heat the brass to a dull orange glow in about 12-15 seconds. Or when you notice the bottom of the shoulder turning blue keep it there for 3-5 seconds then it's time to dunk in the water. Test a couple of cases by sizing them and seating a bullet. If the bullet seats too easy then too much heat was applied causing the brass to become too soft loosing its property to spring back.

It's best to clean your cases before annealing. You don't need to have them shining, but that carbon fouling around the neck should be removed by using medium grit steel wool.

I had a batch of Remington 22-250 cases and more than 10% were splitting at the case mouth upon first firing. After annealing I haven't lost another to case mouth splitting.

[J-cat]

Glowing the neck will destroy it.

Go to Giraud's website and read the instructions for their annealer. You want a standard Benzomatic tip with a half-inch flame for 8.5 seconds to properly anneal a 308. I have found that to work for most brass other than Winchester commercial. It is so thin that 6.5 seconds works best. Anymore and the brass will lose its elasticity and your ES will go to hell.

I tried longer flames with shorter times but the brass heated up too quick and the annealing was inconsistent and it showed in terms of seating pressure and ES.

Use a timer, something like a metronome, otherwise your annealing will be inconsistent. 7 beats per minute is about 8.5 seconds.

[bsumoba]

I just bought this: http://www.fluxeon.com/buyflux/index...&product_id=66 . Giraud is going to make a version of their machine using this rather than a flame. I don't need the set it and forget it mode, so this will work just fine. I did a lot of research before pulling the trigger on an induction annealer, but this thing looks legit. I'll let everyone know how it works out. Anneal brass in less than 2-3 seconds with the upmost consistency? I'm game!

The big thing I look at is my neck tension and my seating pressure. If I get consistent seating pressures and it "feels" like I want to it feel, then I probably did my job. I also know my annealing is working if I am minimizing my neck splits.

[OverUnderClays]

I just bought this: http://www.fluxeon.com/buyflux/index...&product_id=66 . Giraud is going to make a version of their machine using this rather than a flame. I don't need the set it and forget it mode, so this will work just fine. I did a lot of research before pulling the trigger on an induction annealer, but this thing looks legit. I'll let everyone know how it works out. Anneal brass in less than 2-3 seconds with the upmost consistency? I'm game!

The big thing I look at is my neck tension and my seating pressure. If I get consistent seating pressures and it "feels" like I want to it feel, then I probably did my job. I also know my annealing is working if I am minimizing my neck splits.

Wow, that's looks interesting. I was contemplating on getting a mechanical one. I did it all by hand.

That's definitely safer than playing with flames. Let us know how it works out.

[ExtremeX]

induction annealer is the way to go...

I have plans on making my own and automating the entire thing using an Arduino. Going to use steppers for a case feeder, a servo door to hold/release the case automatically and a simple optical case sensor starts the process...

In regards to under/over annealing... its all time and temp, just buy the right tools to check it like Tempilaq. Brass starts to anneal at about 482F.

You want to get the necks to about 700-800F so the 750F Tempilaq indicator for the neck is a good choice, and a 450F Tempilaq indicator for the body/case head is another good choice to make sure the annealing processing doesn't move into areas you don't want to anneal.

[OverUnderClays]

Hey Extreme,

Are those 1000w DIY induction heater kits sufficient enough to heat the brass?

Asking out of curiosity.

[ExtremeX]

Hey Extreme,

Are those 1000w DIY induction heater kits sufficient enough to heat the brass?

Asking out of curiosity.

I think so... I am still looking into it myself, but from what I understand you can always vary output by controlling voltage.

My plan was to add a potentiometer to control voltage input, and another pot to the Arduino to control trigger time. That should give me more than enough control over time/temp.

I probably don't need to mess with lowering input voltage since you want it to heat up fast. I suspect it is possible to oversize the thing too.

If you have a link to the DIY kit post it... id like to take a look at what you found.

[OverUnderClays]

I think so... I am still looking into it myself, but from what I understand you can always vary output by controlling voltage.

My plan was to add a potentiometer to control voltage input, and another pot to the Arduino to control trigger time. That should give me more than enough control over time/temp.

I probably don't need to mess with lowering input voltage since you want it to heat up fast. I suspect it is possible to oversize the thing too.

If you have a link to the DIY kit post it... id like to take a look at what you found.

Quick search on google turned this up: http://www.rmcybernetics.com/project...ion-heater.htm

I found some other kits on ebay as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1214009...lpid=82&chn=ps. I figured besides the circuit, I would need an AC to DC converter for the circuit.

The Annie setup that bsumoba posted, is much more compact.

Definitely curious on the DIY end. I used to do tech work, so soldering does not scare me as much as playing with torches heating brass!

[ExtremeX]

Ya, I prefer to go the electrical route as well. I have a really nice soldering station so the DIY route gives me an excuse to play with my toys.

You are looking at the same one as me... Unless you build your own from scratch, the ZVS on ebay seems like the best way to go.

I got a drawers full of electronics components so I might try making one but I really want to focus more on the Arduino side of the project. I haven't found many other pre-assembled units that are similar to the ZVS...

[JTROKS]

I just do everything by hand. I don't shoot much nowadays. But having a case holder that mounts to a cordless drill will work for small batches.

[krwada]

Tempilaq

750 Tempilaq on the case neck is the way to go. There is no question whether or not you got the neck to the correct temperature. If you are going to go to the trouble of annealing, then it is best you do it right.

The Hornady Lock and Load annealing kit includes the 450 Tempilaq indicator. The Hornady Corporation recommends painting this stuff just below the shoulder.

I have found that BOTH the 750 on the neck, and the 450 below the should will indicate at exactly the same time. I tested this on 100 pieces of .30-06 brass, and 100 pieces of 7x57 brass.

The time I got was 5 seconds.

[sammy]

Wow, great info guys. Is there a way to check and see if it is annealed correctly?