RCBS 2000 first experience

[brettkeating]

Finally set up my new RCBS 2000 and loaded the first handful of 38 special rounds. Had a few issues which I worked out:

- Primer wasn't being seated even close to far enough, and it took awhile to figure out what to adjust. I bent the shell retaining spring at that station trying to get the partially-seated primer/shell back out, and had to bend it back again. The manuals are pretty ****ty.
- Spent primers were getting stuck. Just had to lower the depriming rod on the dye.
- It comes with two types of APS strips for each color, which is confusing.
- I had to cut a section out of my reloading desk in order for the handle to move freely, because it was hitting the vertical solid wood underneath the mounting surface.

And some things I really liked right off the bat:

- It seems the Uniflow is more consistent when attached to the 2000 than when I used to cycle it by hand
- I love the heft, finish and build of the press as a whole
- I like how easy it is to fix errors mid-process

One thing I think I will really get sick of:

- Any time there's a problem that requires removing the shell plate is a PITA

The plan was to load 100 rounds as a test, with a simple and safe tried-and-true recipe for 38 special. But I'm still wondering if others have had the same problems I have with ejecting spent primers and with the APS system. Towards the end of the 100 rounds, a spent primer didn't make it down the tube (even with the repositioned depriming rod) and jammed up the process. Also, there was a couple problems with the APS system screwing up and once it jammed a couple live primers under the shell plate, which had to be removed (a total PITA) in order to unstick things.

Just wondering about other folks' experiences with first-time reloading on an RCBS 2000 and if any of this sounds familiar and may be pointing to something I may have installed incorrectly etc.

[shoebox56]

Sometimes I will get a bad batch of the APS strip where the primer holes are way too small and the seater will get stuck in there. If you can identify it, usually just a file is enough to loosen it up. Where I get really stuck though is when the APS strip teeths (lack of better term) are not within specs. Normally doesn't stop me unless I am chaining the strips together, has a tendency to stall out, still not clear why. Not quite sure how to correct ones with bad teeth. (I haven't tried getting a replacement from RCBS, I may try.)

For changing shell plates, I use a 5/16 allen socket and finger screw it in, or out, depending if your installing or removing. I learned that off Youtube somewhere. I use the actual allen wrench to tighten (or break). To quickly line up the plate I usually move the press handle as far forward as possible, then drop the plate so that it lines up with the primer plug. This action alone seems to also line up the pall of the index arm underneath the plate. I would slowly finger tighten with the 5/16 allen socket each time I cycle the press, making sure nothing binds up. Once it's hand tighten, would use the allen wrench to tighten more. When I figured this out, I am swapping out plates pretty fast.

First few days are hard, especially for me since I had no clue on progressives, but that thing runs solid now. I'm only a year into it.

[brettkeating]

For changing shell plates, I use a 5/16 allen socket and finger screw it in, or out, depending if your installing or removing. I learned that off Youtube somewhere. I use the actual allen wrench to tighten (or break).

This is a good tip, thanks. For some reason I hadn't considered using a socket for this, but makes perfect sense. Removing the shell plate is more than just the center, you also have to loosen the completed round ejector etc. ugh

[klewan]

Keep at it, that's the only way you'll learn how to run it. It's going to be a challenge because RCBS has never been able to make a progressive press that compares to the rest of the market. Single stage and turrets they can do, progressives are still kind of uncharted territory....

[shoebox56]

When do you link the APS strips?
I don't link them until I can just barely see the strip as the end is feeding into the press.
What is your location?

I normally link up midway on the ramp. Don't get me wrong, it generally works. It's the 1% of the time when it kind of stalls out, but I traced that to an occasional off spec strip. I can usually tell when strip is off spec when I hear a grinding sound when fed through the priming mechanism. It's consistent whether I link that same strip or fed through alone.

You know I will try your method linking up close to the feed opening. Curious to see how well that works.

[TKM]

Don't worry about the primer strip colors until you are loading a bunch of different calibers. Just keep the large and small ones apart, baggies and a sharpie help. Do you buy them loaded or refill the empties? If one is slightly buggered up, throw it away.

Never, ever pull the strip backwards out of the priming assembly. Go ahead and order some replacement parts now, they send them free.

Part number 53 Detent 186265 2 pcs.

Go ahead and dremel off the hex key for removing the base plate so that it will work without removing it. Basically an even-sided L- shape. You won't use it for anything else, ever....

If I had any common sense I'd glue a handle to the part I cut off and sell them. Oh well.

Make sure that the ball doesn't fall off of the spring and roll into the wrong hole.

Dry lube under the plate, no oil. Blue Loctite on the Uniflow linkage screws, they will loosen up.

I've been banging away on mine forever, PM me for any problems.

Cheers, Pete.

[brettkeating]

Don't worry about the primer strip colors until you are loading a bunch of different calibers. Just keep the large and small ones apart, baggies and a sharpie help. Do you buy them loaded or refill the empties? If one is slightly buggered up, throw it away.

Never, ever pull the strip backwards out of the priming assembly. Go ahead and order some replacement parts now, they send them free.

Part number 53 Detent 186265 2 pcs.

Go ahead and dremel off the hex key for removing the base plate so that it will work without removing it. Basically an even-sided L- shape. You won't use it for anything else, ever....

If I had any common sense I'd glue a handle to the part I cut off and sell them. Oh well.

Make sure that the ball doesn't fall off of the spring and roll into the wrong hole.

Dry lube under the plate, no oil. Blue Loctite on the Uniflow linkage screws, they will loosen up.

I've been banging away on mine forever, PM me for any problems.

Cheers, Pete.

Thanks for the tips, always appreciate the generosity of cal gunners! Honestly even with the issues I'm having, I'm surprised at how few of them there are. I am very happy with the RCBS. I think it's a straightforward upgrade from my Rock Chucker for handgun loading, and I think it's the safest, sturdiest progressive out there. For a relative beginner like me, it is just what the doctor ordered.

[TKM]

More from a previously dormant brain cell.

When you've pretty much worked out where the shell plate screw works best, go ahead and etch a big damn arrow on it, facing you. Brightly colored nail polish also works, if indeed you have any brightly colored nail polish.

I don't judge.

This way you can tell at a glance if it has shifted instead of waiting until you notice that the primers seem a little high. Then having to go back and re-seat a hundred or so.