new to 30-06 - need validation on case prep

[Michael in California]

I've been reloading 9mm and, of course, that is simple compared to necked cartridges.

I'm using a LNL progressive and picked up an older lee two die, full length die set. Wet tumbling as well. I like wet tumbling.

I'll be using Speer 150 gr FMJBT bullets on IMR-4895. I'm loading for a Garand. Both are currently being shipped.

I'm still missing a few key tools like a primer pocket reamer or swager, and trimming tools. I'd like to get a single stage press to support some of these operations, but I reckon I can go with a few manual tools to get by for now.

The real questions for now. Case sizing.

The conventional concept is to run the sizing die down to the shell plate and be done with it. Various resources like ChuckHawks recommend backing off the die until you just get the round to chamber in your rifle. This gives more precision and better case life. I understand that.

However, my brass seems short at the shoulder and pretty much anything chambers as long as the die gets anywhere near the base of the brass. Of course, no bullet as yet, just the bare case.

The brass is Greek surplus from CMP. I've measured the shoulder and start of the neck on sized and unsized brass and I'm several thousandths short of spec. Brass sized up to 1 turn from the shell plate chamber just fine. 1 1/4 becomes tight.

Is it correct to assume that I shouldn't have to bump the shoulder back until a few reloadings?

The brass, after sizing, also does not appear to need trimming. Pretty much to the max of length, but not over. Is this normal as well for once fired brass?

If I don't need to trim, I reckon I don't need to buy trimming and chamfering tools quite yet. The odd long case, I can put aside for now. Thus, I can get about some test loads prior to purchasing more tools. Right? I definitely need the primer pocket reamer though.

I'll be loading based on Hornady's Garand specific loads and load a bit light and work up. Everything will run across a chrony for verification of velocity and consistency.

[Divernhunter]

You are ok. I FL resize and not worry about the brass lasting 1-2 loads less. I know it will function that way. Yes you will want a primer pocket swager/cutter. The best is the Dillon Super-swager. If you want a RCBS swager I have one I will sell. Also a Lyman hand cutter.

I do not crimp my loads and have had no problem in any of my Garands.
Just load 47gr IMR4895 with the 150gr bullet and be done with it.

"I" prefer a single stage press for the rifle loading.

[J-cat]

Oh no he's not.

One full turn off the shell plate means only 75% of the neck is being sized and the shoulder isnt even touched.

[8mmFMJ]

I like 45.5 grains imr4895 and 168 amax hornadys for accuracy. But, 47 and 150FMJs is also my load for shooting paper in my 30.06 bolt action.

I find em mostly at max length after once firing too. But I trim it and shoot it 2-3 more times without having to mess with it. Buy your tools now and trim em all to spec. That's what I recommend.

If you have a drill, the lee case trimmer set is like 13$ locally.

* I only shoot/own remington, win, and federal cases. So I'm no help on surplus.

[ExtremeX]

The brass, after sizing, also does not appear to need trimming. Pretty much to the max of length, but not over. Is this normal as well for once fired brass?

You are going to need trimming tools eventually... considering it is at max now, you will need to trim those cases after another FL resize. I would also just trim it now to the trim to length.

[ExtremeX]

Is it correct to assume that I shouldn't have to bump the shoulder back until a few reloadings?

You are ok. I FL resize and not worry about the brass lasting 1-2 loads less.

Even with a FL resize its good to actually measure how much bump you are imparting on the case...

Its going to vary based on your chamber and how much bump the FL process is putting on the case shoulder.

Going into it blind isn't a good idea as you could see a gross oversizing of that shoulder... The negative results could be a lot worse than a 1-2 less loadings. Could come down to a safety issue which can cause case head separation after a few firings.

I would at least get a headspace comparator set and measure the delta from a fire case from your chamber to a FL sized case. Adjust the FL sizing die as needed and lock that setting.

If you don't want to spend a lot, the Hornady kit which attaches to your calipers will get it done.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[Michael in California]

Oh no he's not.

One full turn off the shell plate means only 75% of the neck is being sized and the shoulder isnt even touched.

You will note that I have tried the die fully down as well. The turns off was to see what would/would not chamber.

What I can't see is any push back of the shoulder. I marked the shoulder and neck with a sharpie and don't even see any contact. It looks like the neck is being sized, but nothing on the shoulder. As best as I can tell with a caliper, the shoulder on fired and unfired cases are shorter than SAMMI spec.

[J-cat]

You can't tell the shoulder position with a caliper. You need a headspace gauge. Try screwing the die in more. I be the press frame shell ate and frame are springing away and you're not getting the shoulder bumped.

If you don't bump the shoulder you'll break the bolt eventually.

[ExtremeX]

OP, you are working in thousands of an inch when dealing with cartridge headspace...

You need something which is going to help you take a repeatable measurement. Like a Precision Mic, comparator kit, or a case gauge with a protrusion micrometer.

[bigedp51]

Michael in California

Buy a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge and measure the fired length of your cases and bump the shoulders back .003 to .006.



If you buy the Hornady gauge you will not need to buy a gauge for every caliber you have.

The RCBS primer pocket reamer made for their case prep station is the cheapest and best reamer for removing the primer crimp. "BUT" if you are doing large batches of cases you can get sore fingers and this is where the Dillon Super swag earns its money.



I'm prepping and resizing HXP cases for my M1 as I write this.
1. Remove the primer and crimp
2. Uniform the primer pockets, the primers should be .008 below the base of the case by milspecs.
3. Resize and trim to minimum length.

The cases are full length resized after each firing with the shoulder bump described above. I do not have a progressive press and I'm using the same Rockchucker press I bought in 1973. My cases are sized using Redding competition shell holders and I'm using the Plus + .004 shell holder and my press cams over. Meaning if I was using the standard shell holder the die would have a .004 gap between the shell holder and the bottom of the die.

[John Browning]

You need to buy a load manual that covers this.

[Divernhunter]

When I said ok I meant when the die was screwed down to the plate/shell holder.

[Michael in California]

Resurrecting this thread as I'm about ready to do some loading.

I added a single stage press, lee quick trim and RCBS swage die to the inventory. I figured most of the cost difference between the lee quick trim and other methods of trimming and chamfering almost pay for the press. The swage die versus a dedicated swaging tool pretty much kills the rest of the cost of the press.

I also picked up a somewhat vintage set of Lee dies for almost nothing. I'll try them out before deciding if I want a better set of dies.

After reading some more on case prep I've pretty much decided that I'll full length size for the Garand and be done with it for now. I might later get more sophisticated, but that should do for now. Not like the Garand is a precision rifle anyway.

Case prep:

Deprime using a Lee universal decapping die.

Wet tumble enough to get basic prep done.

Swage all brass on the press. All is Greek surplus so one setup should work fine.

Full length resize.

Trim/chamfer to 2.484

Re-tumble to clean the lube and make 'em shiny. Now they have to dry.

That's where I am right now. If I get some time to myself tomorrow I'll start working up some test loads.

Using Sierra 150 gr bullets and IMR 4895.
Everybody and their brother likes 47 gr.
NRA recommends 49 gr max.
Hodgdon says 49 to 53 (not Garand specific, so don't go that high).

Hornady says 46.4 max for H4895 but doesn't show IMR in 150 gr. For heavier bullets, H4895 is loaded slightly less than IMR. Certainly extrapolating is improper, but it adds comfort to other loads from other sources.

I plan to load 44.5 to 47gr in .5 gr steps as test loads checking for pressure signs and reading the chrony as I go. Basically following the OCW method of looking for best charge weight. I'll also run the greek surplus over the chrony for comparison.

[M1NM]

Run the sizing die all the way down to get your round back to factory specs. Keep using the Greek brass. M1s are hard on brass and commercial brass will only last a few loadings. Triming is probably only needed every 4th - 5th loading. Don't over think the process.

[Divernhunter]

I load 47grs of IMR4895 for all my and my buddies Garands and have never had a problem using 147-150gr bullets.

You may be able to load more but why add more stress on a old warhorse if you do not need to.