Reloading 158 gr for 38 special

[16in50calNavalRifle]

Just a guess, but in most cases what people are referring to as the ring inside the 357 cylinder is mostly a carbon residue ring, build-up from the shorter 38sp cases. Not lead. I know in my revolvers this is the case. My only leading (and so far, thankfully, it's been negligible) has been at the forcing cone and sometimes down the grooves of the barrel.

Soaking the cylinder chambers in the best carbon solvent, then scrubbing with a good stiff bronze brush or the ChoreBoy copper strands wrapped around an old brush, should take care of most of it. One can get more aggressive (use a drill to turn the rod, use Flitz or another steel polisher), but at the risk of removing metal or otherwise creating wear/tear that is not neccesary to get the cylinders clean enough to take 357 cases easily.

I use only 357 brass, usually with light/moderate 38sp loads, in my two snubbies. This avoids most of the ring build-up. In my Model 66 I use 38sp brass, mostly because I had accumulated a nice stock before I decided to switch to the 357 brass-residue avoidance "model".

So using 357 brass regardless of load is one way to avoid/minimize ring build-up in your cylinders.

[Cowboy T]

I think the OP's question regarding cleaning the brass might've gotten misinterpreted to mean, "the Evil Ring of Carbon in the Cylinders".

OP, you don't *have* to clean your brass to make good rounds. I know several people who don't and make ammo that performs excellently. However, many of us do so, and it's for a few reasons.

1.) It's easier to spot defects in the used cases when they've been cleaned up. You always want to inspect your cases after their last firing.

2.) Many of us just like the look of new- or new-ish-looking rounds and view it as a point of pride in our workmanship.

3.) With the old steel dies, you could end up scratching up your resizing die. That's not so much of an issue with today's carbide sizing dies, though you might see a few extra scratches over time on your brass cases.

Now, to address the Evil Ring of Carbon in the Cylinders from using .38 Special cases--a totally separate issue--just clean your gun like you're supposed to, and there won't be any problem. Hoppe's #9 cuts right through it, as do other quality cleaning solvents.

[pacrat]

I think the OP's question regarding cleaning the brass might've gotten misinterpreted to mean, "the Evil Ring of Carbon in the Cylinders".

OP, you don't *have* to clean your brass to make good rounds. I know several people who don't and make ammo that performs excellently. However, many of us do so, and it's for a few reasons.

1.) It's easier to spot defects in the used cases when they've been cleaned up. You always want to inspect your cases after their last firing.

2.) Many of us just like the look of new- or new-ish-looking rounds and view it as a point of pride in our workmanship.

3.) With the old steel dies, you could end up scratching up your resizing die. That's not so much of an issue with today's carbide sizing dies, though you might see a few extra scratches over time on your brass cases.

Now, to address the Evil Ring of Carbon in the Cylinders from using .38 Special cases--a totally separate issue--just clean your gun like you're supposed to, and there won't be any problem. Hoppe's #9 cuts right through it, as do other quality cleaning solvents.

Cowboy T pretty much covers it.

I will add a helpfull tip to #3 in relation to scratching and carbide v steel dies. No lube is needed or required if loading clean brass cases using carbide dies.

If on the other hand you load a lot of "nickle" plated cases, using carbide dies. Over time small amounts of the nickle plating will burnish off of the cases and deposit inside the carbide ring of the die due to the pressure and friction. This will cause scratching of all cases used there after. I use a lube pad to just moisten forefinger and thumb of left hand and super slightly lube the top portion of every 10th nickle case. No problems with nickle transfer since.

JM2c

[Cowboy T]

Good point on the nickel cases, pacrat. For the bigger bore cases, be they of either type (yellow or nickel-plated), I'll hit 'em with a little spritz of Hornady One-Shot. This is after they're cleaned, and about 5 minutes before I'm ready to actually use the cases. The One-Shot dries in about a minute, and you don't need much. The cases go into the carbide sizing die a lot more easily.