new to reloading 357 please help

[roc_my_tims]

I have started making 38 spl rounds. Found out the chrimping is not so easy made a buch of rounds that wouldnt chamber.

I wanted to ask do you guys seat and cheimp seperately?

I brought a lee factory chrimp die to do this hope it was worth the $18

Do you guys cut down your 357 brass to the same lengths ? i noticed my cases have different lenghts to where when seating it sometimes moves it around the chrimp grove so my rounds arent consistannt

Im thinking of having 2 sets of seating dies one set for 357 and one set for 38 so i dont have to deal with spacers or resetting is this normal or overkill

[opos]

Interesting thread but it brings me to the old comment that always comes up...If you don't have one or more of the current reloading manuals...please get one or more...internet info is ok sometimes but sometimes not....I have loaded for years and years....still have 4 manuals as well as old "out of date ones" that I refer to every time I load...again, please get the manuals and many of your questions will be answered by folks that did the actual testing with the actual results you seek.

[357magnum]

I also reload both .357 mag. and .38 spl. using magnum cases , as well as magnum primers in both.
.357 mag - 158gr Hornady XTP with 14.0gr H110 and magnum primer.
.38 spl. (magnum case) - 125gr Hornady XTP with 4.4gr Win 231 and magnum primer.

[roc_my_tims]

Thank you for the reply opos, the original question i asked has been answered. The new question i asked today is not easily found in the reloading manual.

[maxx03]

I seat and crimp using one die. I crimp enough for the round to fit in the cylinder of my gun. I have found trimming will give uniform crimps.
Keep a separate die set for 38 and 357, you will need to adjust seating depth and crimp when switching calibers if you don't.

[opos]

Thank you for the reply opos, the original question i asked has been answered. The new question i asked today is not easily found in the reloading manual.

Didn't mean to lecture...we all get lectured when we start on a new venture..the crimping and uniformity are discussed in most manuals....I use a Lee crimp die on occasion but my experience has been that the crimp die on a straight case like the 38 special is because I didn't go to the trouble of learning and setting up my bullet seating/crimp die...I only use the Lee FCD in some special applications with a 45 colt lead loading and pretty much nothing else...if your revolver (might be assuming something here) won't handle the reloads you are doing...that's not something I'd rely on another die to cure..sounds like an issue with the original set of dies or with the procedures....I've loaded thousands of rounds of revolver loads in various calibers and have yet to use a length gauge or trim except in the case...possibly of brand new virgin brass where I find a very marked difference in length on occasion...the cannelure on the bullets will move around on the projectile so it's like trying to hit a moving target...if you are plinking it's no issue at all...if you are a competitive shooter and looking for the last tiny edge...they you already know what to do. If you measure your brass you might notice some minor inconsistancy but you may also notice that most cases are under the suggested length...so if you want to get uniformity you will have to trim to the shortest length....can't trim to a longer length.

Your questions are not uncommon or new...here is a link to the S/W forum from about 3 years ago...it has the same "flavor" and the various replies are not unlike this thread..it does discuss the FCD, trimming, various crimp techniques, etc...might make for interesting reading.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/230184-38-special-lswc-problem.html

[roc_my_tims]

Thanks for the info, i now wish i would have put the $18 i spent on the lfc towards a 2nd set of dies and sperated the 2 calibers totally (which i will do anyway)

For my first try, first 40 rounds i made about 20 that didnt fit and 20 that did. Was able to take them apart so i will try again, will work on getting the die to chrimp and seat correctly at the same time. I just felt like the difference in lenght of cases was the problem. It was probably the amount of chrimp i was puting on and the fact i was messing around with both calibers around the same time with 1 die set.

[milotrain]

I agree with the others above: I shoot only .357 cases (as long as the revolver or lever gun is chambered for that). My normal load is a 180gr RNFP lead round over 11gr of N110. It's somewhere between a .38 and .357 load, it's light but good.

One thing that helps out in the beginning is being able to separate things you have to change and then lock them down. Something like the Lee turret press where you could set up your .38 dies and .357 dies on separate tool heads would really help you. It's not necessary by any means and in a year or two of reloading you'll be able to swap dies out very quickly and confidently. But in the beginning it's good to have a way to "save your work" and a toolhead or lock and load setup is excellent for that.

[opos]

Thanks for the info, i now wish i would have put the $18 i spent on the lfc towards a 2nd set of dies and sperated the 2 calibers totally (which i will do anyway)

For my first try, first 40 rounds i made about 20 that didnt fit and 20 that did. Was able to take them apart so i will try again, will work on getting the die to chrimp and seat correctly at the same time. I just felt like the difference in lenght of cases was the problem. It was probably the amount of chrimp i was puting on and the fact i was messing around with both calibers around the same time with 1 die set.

We have all been through things like this...it's easier to isolate one thing at a time...perfect that and then attack the next thing...I recall how screwed up I got the first time I loaded 30 carbine for my Blackhawk....I got all tangled up trying to solve length, crimp, powder charge and bullet weight at the same time, that I was just trying to put my arms around a cloud of smoke...Might try and determine by measuring and "disecting" the 20 that don't fit to see why they don't fit..compare measurements with the 20 that do...do they fit in one chamber of the cylinder and not another? will the projectile push through the throat of the cylinder or is it too big, lots of things like that...are all the bullets the same manufacturer? Is the brass the same manufacturer? (reason I ask is that RP brass in noted for being thinner material than many others ....I had a die replaced by lee recently as it was a bit out of spec and would resize all brass but RP and would not properly size R/P due to the thinner walls)...if you can find one thing that is an isssue and then move to correct that one thing..then on to the next..it might just work itself out...

[357magnum]

I seat and crimp in two steps.
When I start with new brass, I trim them all to the same length.
So far I have never had to trim them again, they just don't seem to stretch enough to make a difference.
I have two sets of dies, one for .38 spl. and one for .357 mag.
Once I set the crimp I want for each set of dies, I lock down the lock ring.
When seating bullets, I use the spacer ring to raise up the die so as not to crimp, and then adjust the seater plug to the desired depth, then remove spacer ring and seater plug and crimp separately.
I use two separate dies, because I use a heavier crimp on the .357 mag. loads vs the .38 spl. loads, this way I don't have to keep adjusting dies every time.
I hope this makes sense.

[roc_my_tims]

Quick follow up just wanted to thank everyone for there help with my questions. I took my reloads out yesterday and they all went off great. I made some 38s with a win 452aa load data and 357 with a run of unique from i think about 7.4 to 8.8 it was fun to see how much stronger the 357 loads got. All were enjoyable to shot and ofcourse the ammo and gun were more accurate than i am but i enjoyed my new revolver very much yesterday.

Will make some more loads to narrow down my pet load and try a few other powders. Have a pic or 2 i will post also later.
thank again all

[3RDGEARGRNDRR]

I seat and crimp in two steps.
When I start with new brass, I trim them all to the same length.
So far I have never had to trim them again, they just don't seem to stretch enough to make a difference.
I have two sets of dies, one for .38 spl. and one for .357 mag.
Once I set the crimp I want for each set of dies, I lock down the lock ring.
When seating bullets, I use the spacer ring to raise up the die so as not to crimp, and then adjust the seater plug to the desired depth, then remove spacer ring and seater plug and crimp separately.
I use two separate dies, because I use a heavier crimp on the .357 mag. loads vs the .38 spl. loads, this way I don't have to keep adjusting dies every time.
I hope this makes sense.

I wouldnt disagree with anyone whos screename is 357magnum on this topic.

as a side note, if you slug your barrel, and its tight enough, (.355 or less) you may get away with using heavy 9mm projectiles. I do all the time, they shoot just as accurate for me. I assume you have a new revolver, HP are easier to find for a 9mm design. And you can do a hot 38 load for use in 357 until your brass supply rises.

[pacrat]

Thanks for the info, i now wish i would have put the $18 i spent on the lfc towards a 2nd set of dies and sperated the 2 calibers totally (which i will do anyway)

For my first try, first 40 rounds i made about 20 that didnt fit and 20 that did. Was able to take them apart so i will try again, will work on getting the die to chrimp and seat correctly at the same time. I just felt like the difference in lenght of cases was the problem. It was probably the amount of chrimp i was puting on and the fact i was messing around with both calibers around the same time with 1 die set.

Hey ROC, just reviewing this thread and noticed I missed this post. Re bold. I had a Colt Officer Md Match 38 spl that so damned tight chambered that every round I loaded for it had to be resized after seating.

I would just lightly finger lube the first 1/2" of case and bump them back up into the sizer to squeeze them down so they would chamber reliably. No biggy. 7 1/2" barrel and extra-fine fully adj sights. Thing shot like a 38spl rifle.

I only crimp magnum level revolver loads.

JM2c

[sigstroker]

I have started making 38 spl rounds. Found out the chrimping is not so easy made a buch of rounds that wouldnt chamber.

I wanted to ask do you guys seat and cheimp seperately?

I brought a lee factory chrimp die to do this hope it was worth the $18

I seat and crimp in two steps, but use the same die. First step, I raise the die so it doesn't crimp, but run the bullet seater down to seat at the right depth. Second step, I back the seater out and run the die down to make a good crimp. I have ordinary dies, not factory crimp. It takes more time to take two steps but I never get any shaved bullets like I did when I did both at the same time.

When loading magnum loads, be sure to put a good crimp in or the bullets will jump the crimp when you fire the revolver and lock up the cylinder.